---
product_id: 2335817
title: "Wood Dye - Aniline Dye 5 Color Kit - Wood Stain Powder"
brand: "keda dye"
price: "VT10202"
currency: VUV
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 8
category: "Keda Dye"
url: https://www.desertcart.vu/products/2335817-wood-dye-aniline-dye-5-color-kit-wood-stain-powder
store_origin: VU
region: Vanuatu
---

# Eco-friendly & VOC-free 5 vibrant primary colors Covers up to 150 sq.ft. per color Wood Dye - Aniline Dye 5 Color Kit - Wood Stain Powder

**Brand:** keda dye
**Price:** VT10202
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 🎨 Transform your wood projects with bold color and eco-conscious power!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Wood Dye - Aniline Dye 5 Color Kit - Wood Stain Powder by keda dye
- **How much does it cost?** VT10202 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.vu](https://www.desertcart.vu/products/2335817-wood-dye-aniline-dye-5-color-kit-wood-stain-powder)

## Best For

- keda dye enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted keda dye brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Pro-Level Results:** Water/isopropyl soluble formula delivers rich, long-lasting color that highlights wood grain beautifully.
- • **Precision Coverage:** Each color covers up to 150 sq.ft., perfect for large projects or multiple pieces.
- • **Eco-Chic & Powerful:** Vibrant, concentrated dyes with zero VOC emissions for guilt-free artistry.
- • **Versatile Application:** Ideal for interior wood, cabinets, and custom furniture with a semi-gloss finish.
- • **Unleash Your Creativity:** Mix & match 5 exotic colors to craft your signature wood stain.

## Overview

Keda Dye’s Wood Dye 5 Color Kit offers five potent, eco-friendly aniline powder dyes that mix into 5 quarts of vibrant wood stain. Designed for professional and DIY use, it covers up to 150 sq.ft. per color, delivers rich, semi-gloss finishes, and is free of VOCs, making it a top choice for millennial managers seeking sustainable yet striking wood customization.

## Description

Wood dye from Keda Dyes can make 5 quarts of liquid wood stain dye, in 5 exotic wood dye colors per kit. This rising legendary 5 color wood staining kit contains the rich, and vibrant primary dye colors of Black, Blue, Brown, Red, and Yellow, per every wood dye stain kit. Mix these wood dyes in varied amounts to create numerous color variations, and make your own rich, custom color wood, and high quality wood stains. Of course, you could always just use the 5 primary stain colors individually, as well as with other wood dyes, or to spice up canned wood stain by applying our wood dyes onto the wood's surface before applying a canned wood stain. Keda Dye wood dye colors, never contain fillers which may reduce potency. Our wood dyes are very powerful, while remaining a more environmentally friendly stain option, and because of their composition, they do not emit any V.O.C.s (Volatile Organic Compounds). Please do not let the eco friendly stain ratings fool you. This is a very color concentrated, powerful wood coloring kit, and can create a rich, vibrant wood stain color option like many have never seen before. This water/isopropyl alcohol soluble powder dye stain has the vibrancy of alcohol based dye, with the safety and light fastness of water based dyes. These truly are one of the best wood dyes available. Each kit has a very detailed set of instructions describing ratios, mixing, application, tips, and more. As a conservative estimate, each stain color will cover approximately 100- 150 sqft per each of the 5 dye colors. Thank you so much for taking time to review our wood dye kit option; we sincerely do appreciate it.

Review: Excellent Product, Some Tips and Observations On Use... - Practical instructions are a bit vague with this product, but the product itself is very good. If you want to know how to get certain colors, search for a video on color mixing with watercolors. That should help, then you just have to work out the proportions. Bought this for a custom sofa build using red oak. The fabric is indigo velvet and the legs, arm and back supports are brushed aluminum. I like oak - it's durable and has nice grain, but I didn't want the natural oak color - it just doesn't go with the fabric or the metal well. I had originally designed the sofa to use purpleheart, but it is very hard to work and expensive. Also, purpleheart fades over time to a brown. Too many problems, so I opted to dye the oak. I didn't want the wood to stand out so much as blend in. I mixed up 1/8 tsp black, 1/4 tsp blue, 1/4 tsp red in several tablespoons of alcohol then topped up with warm tap water to make roughly 1 quart of dye in a 5 cup plastic food storage box with tight lid. I put several coats of dye on all pieces and left them overnight to dry. It was too red and not dark enough. I've painted for years, so color mixing is something I'm pretty good at. I added an additional 1/2 tsp of the blue powder after warming in the microwave for 1.5 minutes. Got a lovely black/blue/purple Once lacquered, it will look really nice with the brushed aluminum and dark blue velvet. Very happy with the results. I wanted almost a black purple. Looks great! It highlights the grain very well, too. Use a small scrap piece to test the final finish. Dye it at the same time and then test the finish coat on the scrap BEFORE you put any finish on the real pieces.. This will keep you from making a really big mistake if you don't like the actual finished color. You don't want to have to wait for the finish to dry and then sand it all off again so you can start over - huge time waster and extremely annoying. Colors always change drastically once the final finish coats are applied. They will be darker and richer - usually. The dry wood looks a bit dayglo, but once the lacquer goes on, it becomes rich and deep. The dry wood will not give you a real clue what the finished wood will look like. I used a scrap stick and after the first dye session lacquered it only to find it was far too red. So, back to the dye a second time. I found the dye very forgiving. I had accidentally left some small drips on the wood the first time around, but when I applied the second round of dye, the drips vanished completely. I think this was largely due to it being oak. If it had been a softer wood it would most probably have soaked in enough to be a problem. You have to be really careful of drips and fingerprints with any dye or stain. I applied it with a brand new cellulose sponge cut in half and rinsed out with tap water. It worked very well. I had finish sanded with 150 grit paper as per the instructions. If you sand too smooth, the dye won't penetrate well. I think a brush would be very messy. Cut several pieces and have them on hand. If you drop one, you will not want to reuse it unless your garage is far cleaner than mine. This type of dye is powerful and long lasting. I've been told it will stay on you for weeks if you really let it sink in. In my case, I'd look like a blue cartoon character - not desirable really.... You want to wear gloves and protective clothes. Don't wear anything you don't want stained. Be careful mixing the dye as well. It can and will stain your countertops and possibly your floor really well... If you use rags to work it in, don't wash them with your clothes! (No I didn't do this, but back in my younger painting days, such things happened.) It is very thin when mixed, so it will splash really spectacularly if you get too busy with the mixing spoon or when applying to the wood. I didn't wipe the dye off. I worked it in with the sponge until it was all soaked in, but I wanted really dark wood color. I just made sure it was even and not pooling anywhere. Very nice product. Good bright colors. Easy to use. I'm using Deft gloss lacquer after the dye has fully dried. Going for a Japanese lacquer look... High finish and super smooth. Lacquer is the best for this, though a bit more work. Good product. It works. Staining wood is definitely a process. Give yourself enough time to do it or you will regret it. Otherwise, have fun with it! Some friends shook their heads when I said purple wood, but now they say it looks great. Hey, it's my sofa - it can be purple if I want it to be purple. Your sofa or guitar or whatever can be any color you want... Beware of backseat designers on any project. It is your vision. Stick to your guns on it or you will end up with something you didn't really want. A hard learned lesson I am passing on for free... Hope this helps...
Review: I detailed tips on use as best i can, and my experiences so far - Great product, although make sure to watch youtube vids to get an idea of how the application differs from stain. I prefer the liquid, it is a bit "cleaner?" looking, its hard to describe, but the price difference means ill stick to powder for everything but blue/red, since i make use of them the most, and tend to just add yellow, brown, or black to adjust the hue. Works good on white pine, aspen, hickory, poplar, cedar, hard maple, and mahogany, although ive mainly used it on pine, poplar, and aspen so far with excellent results. Works the best with aspen and hard maple in my opinion. I will be trying red oak at some point soon. Play around with the mix ratio in small batches, you can create some interesting colors that can vary depending on lighting and/or the woods grain. Keep track of the amounts used so you can duplicate colors. I've made a blood red with orange highlights and an almost indigo blue with teal undertones that i am very happy with. Dont use anything higher than about 60% isopropyl alcohol unless you add water or it may not dissolve properly. The shelf life after mixing has been pretty long if kept in sealed container (approx 3mo so far). I DONT RECCOMEND LACQUER THINNER AS A BASE, it seems to allow the dye to permeate lacquer even after it was allowed 24hrs to dry. Isopropyl does not seem to have the same issue. Water only has not given very good results either, it doesn't seem to get into the wood very well at all. Sanding to 400 grit on soft woods seems to work best for me, but with harder ones approx 180 is probably sufficent. The finer you sand, the longer it takes to get in the wood, but too rough and it will go too far, just like oil or water based stain. Youll probably use more than expected, maybe 4 times what you would expect to use on a project than oil staining the same thing? Thats a only guess though, it could be more, but you will never manage to get the same results using a stain, either water or oil based, although i am going to try using Minwax's new 'True Black' oil stain instead of the black powder using mineral spirits maybe as the base and will update if the results are worth mentioning. i havent looked to see if they mention using MS as a base works or not.

## Features

- Wood dye from Keda Dyes can make 5 quarts of liquid dye stain, in 5 exotic wood dye colors per kit.
- Wood Dyes are eco-friendly, offer vibrant wood dye colors, and are very powerful.

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B00BAKWTMQ |
| Additional Features | Eco-friendly, Vibrant, Powerful |
| Base Material | Wood |
| Best Sellers Rank | #26,484 in Tools & Home Improvement ( See Top 100 in Tools & Home Improvement ) #63 in Household Stains |
| Brand Name | Keda Dye |
| Coating Description | Water-based Wood Stain |
| Color | Black, Blue, Brown, Red, Yellow, all in one wood stain colors set |
| Compatible Material | Wood |
| Coverage | Covers up to 150 sq. ft. per color |
| Customer Reviews | 4.6 4.6 out of 5 stars (2,786) |
| Finish Types | Semi-Gloss |
| Item Dimensions | 7 x 4.5 x 0.5 inches |
| Item Type Name | Wood Dye Stain |
| Item Weight | 0.06 Pounds |
| Liquid Volume | 5 Liters |
| Manufacturer | Keda Dye |
| Manufacturer Warranty Description | 30 Day |
| Material Type | Stain |
| Model Name | Keda Dye Kit |
| Model Number | wood dye - aniline dye - wood stain |
| Recommended Uses For Product | Interior, Cabinets |
| Size | 5 quarts |
| Surface Recommendation | Wood |
| UPC | 793573076588 |
| Unit Count | 160.0 Fluid Ounces |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** Keda Dye
- **Color:** Black, Blue, Brown, Red, Yellow, all in one wood stain colors set
- **Material:** Stain
- **Model Name:** Keda Dye Kit
- **Surface Recommendation:** Wood

## Images

![Wood Dye - Aniline Dye 5 Color Kit - Wood Stain Powder - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/91rg5r5B4eL.jpg)

## Questions & Answers

**Q: is there a color chart available that will show what colors to mix to get another color**
A: There are several videos on YouTube under Keda Wood Dye, but honestly the colors mix like basic color mixing. Red + Blue = Purple, Blue + Yellow = Green, Red + Yellow = Orange etc

**Q: What type of alcohol should be used and how do you safely heat it for mixing?**
A: Rubbing alcohol works great, and helps slow the drying process just a enough so that there is not an instant flash off, allowing for a little better control as an alcohol wood dye. The isopropyl alcohol based Wood Dye formula will dry faster than a water based wood dye formula will, but not as fast as a denatured alcohol dye will. Warming the dye stain solution only is applied to the water based version of the dye stain, never to the alcohol based dye stain. 

Otherwise, if you are looking for wood Dye that mixes with a wide array of reagents like lacquer thinner, alcohols, acetone, keytones, water, and many more, you may want to check out our liquid wood dye listing. The wood dye powders excel with rubbing alcohol and water, whereas the wood dye liquids excel as a solvent based wood dye. Thank you so much for your interest, we really are grateful.

Your Fan,
Keith
Keda Dye LLC

**Q: Can this be mixed into a water based urethane and used  like the minwax polystains?**
A: I didn't have any luck at all with this product. Followed instructions for water, when that didn't work tried mixing with alcohol per instructions. Colored both liquids nice but none would penetrate wood. Tried three different colors. Maybe I just got a bad batch. Ended up using artisan premixed and it worked really nice for me

**Q: Can these dyes be dissolved in lacquer thinner and added to clear conversion varnish to be sprayed?**
A: Hi,
Actually, the Keda liquid dyes will be the much better option for lacquer thinner. The Blue dye powder will probably work with the lacquer thinner, but the dye powders really are meant to be a much more eco friendly, No VOC wood stain option.  The Keda Liquid Dyes are specifically made for mixing with reagents like lacquer thinner, denatured alcohol, acetone, etc., and do in fact mix amazingly well in lacquer thinner. There are individual dye colors available with the Keda liquid dyes on Amazon, as well as being offered in the traditional Keda Dye fashion, where there is a very high quality five color liquid dye kit on Amazon here: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J2NO2OA The liquid dyes really would be the best option for that, and the liquid dyes will even mix directly into the solvent lacquer even without the thinner. The Keda powder dyes work better with rubbing alcohol, simple warm water, or could even be used as a water based dye lacquer tint. The Keda powder dyes excel when mixed into low VOC wood sealers. Hope that helps? Have a great weekend!

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Excellent Product, Some Tips and Observations On Use...
*by M***S on February 20, 2018*

Practical instructions are a bit vague with this product, but the product itself is very good. If you want to know how to get certain colors, search for a video on color mixing with watercolors. That should help, then you just have to work out the proportions. Bought this for a custom sofa build using red oak. The fabric is indigo velvet and the legs, arm and back supports are brushed aluminum. I like oak - it's durable and has nice grain, but I didn't want the natural oak color - it just doesn't go with the fabric or the metal well. I had originally designed the sofa to use purpleheart, but it is very hard to work and expensive. Also, purpleheart fades over time to a brown. Too many problems, so I opted to dye the oak. I didn't want the wood to stand out so much as blend in. I mixed up 1/8 tsp black, 1/4 tsp blue, 1/4 tsp red in several tablespoons of alcohol then topped up with warm tap water to make roughly 1 quart of dye in a 5 cup plastic food storage box with tight lid. I put several coats of dye on all pieces and left them overnight to dry. It was too red and not dark enough. I've painted for years, so color mixing is something I'm pretty good at. I added an additional 1/2 tsp of the blue powder after warming in the microwave for 1.5 minutes. Got a lovely black/blue/purple Once lacquered, it will look really nice with the brushed aluminum and dark blue velvet. Very happy with the results. I wanted almost a black purple. Looks great! It highlights the grain very well, too. Use a small scrap piece to test the final finish. Dye it at the same time and then test the finish coat on the scrap BEFORE you put any finish on the real pieces.. This will keep you from making a really big mistake if you don't like the actual finished color. You don't want to have to wait for the finish to dry and then sand it all off again so you can start over - huge time waster and extremely annoying. Colors always change drastically once the final finish coats are applied. They will be darker and richer - usually. The dry wood looks a bit dayglo, but once the lacquer goes on, it becomes rich and deep. The dry wood will not give you a real clue what the finished wood will look like. I used a scrap stick and after the first dye session lacquered it only to find it was far too red. So, back to the dye a second time. I found the dye very forgiving. I had accidentally left some small drips on the wood the first time around, but when I applied the second round of dye, the drips vanished completely. I think this was largely due to it being oak. If it had been a softer wood it would most probably have soaked in enough to be a problem. You have to be really careful of drips and fingerprints with any dye or stain. I applied it with a brand new cellulose sponge cut in half and rinsed out with tap water. It worked very well. I had finish sanded with 150 grit paper as per the instructions. If you sand too smooth, the dye won't penetrate well. I think a brush would be very messy. Cut several pieces and have them on hand. If you drop one, you will not want to reuse it unless your garage is far cleaner than mine. This type of dye is powerful and long lasting. I've been told it will stay on you for weeks if you really let it sink in. In my case, I'd look like a blue cartoon character - not desirable really.... You want to wear gloves and protective clothes. Don't wear anything you don't want stained. Be careful mixing the dye as well. It can and will stain your countertops and possibly your floor really well... If you use rags to work it in, don't wash them with your clothes! (No I didn't do this, but back in my younger painting days, such things happened.) It is very thin when mixed, so it will splash really spectacularly if you get too busy with the mixing spoon or when applying to the wood. I didn't wipe the dye off. I worked it in with the sponge until it was all soaked in, but I wanted really dark wood color. I just made sure it was even and not pooling anywhere. Very nice product. Good bright colors. Easy to use. I'm using Deft gloss lacquer after the dye has fully dried. Going for a Japanese lacquer look... High finish and super smooth. Lacquer is the best for this, though a bit more work. Good product. It works. Staining wood is definitely a process. Give yourself enough time to do it or you will regret it. Otherwise, have fun with it! Some friends shook their heads when I said purple wood, but now they say it looks great. Hey, it's my sofa - it can be purple if I want it to be purple. Your sofa or guitar or whatever can be any color you want... Beware of backseat designers on any project. It is your vision. Stick to your guns on it or you will end up with something you didn't really want. A hard learned lesson I am passing on for free... Hope this helps...

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ I detailed tips on use as best i can, and my experiences so far
*by M***. on April 17, 2018*

Great product, although make sure to watch youtube vids to get an idea of how the application differs from stain. I prefer the liquid, it is a bit "cleaner?" looking, its hard to describe, but the price difference means ill stick to powder for everything but blue/red, since i make use of them the most, and tend to just add yellow, brown, or black to adjust the hue. Works good on white pine, aspen, hickory, poplar, cedar, hard maple, and mahogany, although ive mainly used it on pine, poplar, and aspen so far with excellent results. Works the best with aspen and hard maple in my opinion. I will be trying red oak at some point soon. Play around with the mix ratio in small batches, you can create some interesting colors that can vary depending on lighting and/or the woods grain. Keep track of the amounts used so you can duplicate colors. I've made a blood red with orange highlights and an almost indigo blue with teal undertones that i am very happy with. Dont use anything higher than about 60% isopropyl alcohol unless you add water or it may not dissolve properly. The shelf life after mixing has been pretty long if kept in sealed container (approx 3mo so far). I DONT RECCOMEND LACQUER THINNER AS A BASE, it seems to allow the dye to permeate lacquer even after it was allowed 24hrs to dry. Isopropyl does not seem to have the same issue. Water only has not given very good results either, it doesn't seem to get into the wood very well at all. Sanding to 400 grit on soft woods seems to work best for me, but with harder ones approx 180 is probably sufficent. The finer you sand, the longer it takes to get in the wood, but too rough and it will go too far, just like oil or water based stain. Youll probably use more than expected, maybe 4 times what you would expect to use on a project than oil staining the same thing? Thats a only guess though, it could be more, but you will never manage to get the same results using a stain, either water or oil based, although i am going to try using Minwax's new 'True Black' oil stain instead of the black powder using mineral spirits maybe as the base and will update if the results are worth mentioning. i havent looked to see if they mention using MS as a base works or not.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Best value and easy to work with when making custom colors
*by A***R on November 4, 2025*

After an exhaustive search to find a stain/dye for my guitar project, I finally settled on this one. Honestly, the best value for the money because you can mix your own colors in many combinations. The instructions were very easy to follow, but you do need to know a little about color combinations to get the one you want if mixing. The powder amount included in small but mighty!! Don't let it fool you. It doesn't take much. I have plenty left over for other projects, and many more colors that I can make now. Mixing was very fast and easy and I got the results I wanted. I mixed 8oz of hot water with 1/4tsp of dye, and could have done 20 or 30 more guitars with the single batch I had left over. Not to mention all the powder left over for other projects. This was a great experience for me, and I'll be using it more in the future!!

## Frequently Bought Together

- Wood Dye - Aniline Dye 5 Color Kit - Wood Stain Powder
- Klean-Strip QSL26 Denatured Alcohol, 1-Quart
- TitanFlex Disposable Nitrile Exam Gloves, 6-mil, Black, Heavy Duty Disposable Gloves, Cooking Gloves, Latex Free, Powder Free

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*Product available on Desertcart Vanuatu*
*Store origin: VU*
*Last updated: 2026-05-08*