Crystal Clear Epoxy Resin Kit 32OZ, Bubble-Free, Anti-Yellowing, Self Leveling Easy Mix 1:1 Coating and Casting Resin for Table Top, Molds, Tumbler Crafts, Painting, Jewelry, DIY Gifts

I used this clear resin to repair a refrigerator drawer on my camper. It was a part I could not source anywhere, and I had large pieces missing. I ended up being able to use clear plastic tape to create a backing for where the plastic was missing. I then mixed up this 2-part epoxy, and poured it into the "hole." The epoxy self leveled. I did see a few bubbles, so I took my heat gun and gently heated the epoxy. This eliminated them. Then I let the drawer cure overnight on my kitchen counter. So far, the repair has held despite being put to use in a high stress environment - inside a camper fridge that bears weight and has to withstand going down the road, bumps and all. Because the epoxy is clear, my repair is barely noticeable. I estimate this epoxy more than paid for itself, because I do not know how much a new drawer would have cost if I had would ever been able to find one. This epoxy got me out of a jam and saved me money. It's easy to use and I highly recommend.

Sets up perfectly and crystal clear. Easy to follow instructions. My first time working with resin, came out perfect.

easy to use. simple directions and i like that it comes with little disposable cups. a little harsh smell so make sure you have a window open near by

Very good product as long as you follow instructions; mix well, mix slow! Beautiful glassy finish but does bubble easy so have your heat gun close! It cures well but does not like mica powder mix! If you use a pigment don’t use much. I have bought several times now and will continue to purchase for my art studio

I already made my third purchase. If you follow the directions, don’t over mix, glaze the top with a blow torch. All the bubbles come out, it self levels nicely and it’s crystal clear. There were so many moisture ripples on this corner stand in my work office. It’s built into the wall, so I couldn’t remove it. Half a** patched the holes, and thought “how can I make this look really nice?” ….. This stuff worked, and made my vision come to life. Super cool. Super cheap for the quality and outcome.

When i received this kit, one of the bottles had liquid in it that was cloudy. I thought maybe it had gotten chilled during shipping, but keeping it at room temp for a day made no difference. So i submerged the whole bottle (tightly capped) into water that was 170 degrees F for 2 or 3 hrs. The cloudiness went away, and the cloudiness has not returned even at room temperature (68-72F). Hopefully this will help people who think they got a defective product.

The epoxy is fine, it works as most epoxy does. It's NOT fast cure. Previously, I've used Stone Coat which is very fast curing, sets up in less than 30 minutes and is hard enough to sand in maybe 4 hours, but it's expensive and generates a lot of heat. This is very reasonably prices, doesn't heat up enough, but don't plan on working it for at least 24 hours.

Pretty good resin for the price. I make resin dice and have tried a few different types of resin. This one was good, still hardened well and the dice turned out like I hoped, however, be aware that it has VERY low viscosity... you have to stir for FOREVER, at least 3 or 4 times as long as the other resins I've tried to get it to any kind of "thicker" consistency, and even then, it's pretty runny and thin when you pour it into the mold. It does harden and dry well, I always wait about 24 hours before demolding no matter which resin I'm using just in case, and they were always done by 24 hours usin this resin. It wasn't "crystal clear" on the one clear set I tried to make, but not opaque either. TIP FOR NEW DICE MAKERS (or other resin crafters) to eliminate/minimize BUBBLES: Heat is key. I don't have a pressure pot or a heat torch, but I've found a system that works quite well for me to minimize or completely eliminate air bubbles. The first thing I do before even setting up to start crafting is I place both the resin bottle and the hardener bottle (both bottles, part A and B) in hot water. I personally just use the hottest water that comes out of my tap - not boiling, but still hurts to touch. Make sure when you set the bottles in the water, the water level goes all the way to the top of where the resin sits inside the bottle. You can set something heavier on top of the bottles to keep them down if they start to float. Now, while they sit there for 15-20 minutes, get everything else ready. Make sure you warm up your molds and silicone pouring cups too. The idea is to get everything at a warm temperature before casting, eliminating bubbles that come from temperature differences. I've found the easiest way for me to warm up the molds and the pouring cups is by placing them inside a ziploc bag, closing the bag tight to keep water out, and then immersing them in a bowl of hot water, the same as the resin bottles (hottest my tap has to offer, weighing them down with a glass or anything else heavier to keep them submerged). Once I've let them sit for a while in the hot water, I'll take the molds out and quickly but THOROUGHLY make sure they're super dry. If your bag was airtight they shouldn't be wet, just warm, but I still always meticulously check that there isn't a single drop of water on or inside any of the molds or pouring cups. Water droplets WILL lead to air bubbles. Then while the molds and cups are still warm I take the resin and hardner out of the warm water, follow proportion directions while pouring, and then stir using a wooden or silicone stick. Stir constantly and semi-slowly and ONLY in one direction if you can help it, making sure you're scraping the bottom and sides, for at least 5 minutes, depending on what your resin instructions say. Then let it sit for another 5-ish minutes based on your instructions. You add micah powder if you're adding color right around now and stir that in. When it starts to get thick (close to honey consistency) THAT'S the time to pour, if it gets any thicker before you pour it into your molds, it'll start to get too thick too fast while you pour. You want to pour it right before you hit honey consistency - it should be thicker than it started off, but not getting hard to stir. Pour it into your molds (pour slowly) and work quickly to fit lids on etc. Between heating your molds, making sure they're completely dry, stirring slowly and thoroughly, and following the directions for your particular resin, you should be able to eliminate all or most microbubbles!

السعر مناسب

لأنه حلو

Für das ich absoluter Neuling bin was epoxidharz betrifft, hat alles auf Anhieb geklappt ! Tolles Ergebnis

Amazing resin very happy

Easy to use , excellent results , good quality and price