RioRand(TM) Upgraded 10 pcs 100Kohm NTC Thermistors thermistor,temperture sensor,Reprap,Prusa 3D printer

I am using these thermistors in a makerbot style 3D printer, custom designed and built. It went onto a J-head mk5, where it replaced burnt out thermistors.These thermistors were some of the best I got. The head is pretty sturdy, so you don't need to worry about breaking them just by looking at them, like some other shoddy thermistors you buy. The upside to this is that you can handle them a bit easier and can install them quicker. 3D printer people will understand the frustration behind installing thermistors. With other ones bought from china on ebay, I broke 4 in a pack of ten just by basic handling. These are ten times better.The reason I am giving four stars instead of five is that they are slightly shorter than other thermistors I bought of the same type. They were calibrated well, but I wish they came with longer connections. Still a great buy. Better than any others I've tried, I'd highly recommend them.

Tested against the thermistors in the current Marlin firmware (01/31/2016). Got the most accurate readings out of #6 (// 6 is 100k EPCOS...), but you'll probably want to test yourself if you have access to an accurate thermometer.Reading 5 degrees low at 200C according to my IR thermometer, which is has a +/- 4C error at that temperature. The other thermistor profiles I tested were off by 25-50C at 200C. Should be plenty accurate enough to get good prints.

they show temperature with using 11 but they are way off, I used them in 2 different printers and the temperatures were off, I had to heat to 220 to get PLA to print, checked it out, all 4 heads (2 dual head systems) were off by 50 degrees.No where did it say in the description that it is meant for marlin or a specific setting in marlin so cant really say it was false advertising but I bet if everyone that posted reviews checked their temps with a good thermometer they would find them off.Now that I have spent several days calibrating them i can finally get wood grain effects in my wood filament.see[...] for the settings that I found to work.

Use the appropriate setting in Marlin (in my case it was 11) look for d=3950 or delta3950. The number varies by Marlin build, I saw it as 71, 8, and 11 on different builds (you can also manually add a file like this http://www.geeetech.com/Documents/thermistor%20lookup%20table.txt to your Marlin buildSettings 1 and 6 (EPCOS) did not work, they had room temperature as -25Cto toughen these up, I epoxy them (jb weld) into a small brass tube that fits onto my hot end with a setscrew after putting the ptfe sleeves and heatshrink on

Bought thermistors for my hot end build, need to take care when prepping and making connections to assure that you have isolated each link from the other.It is nice to have a few spares on hand for new projects.I have built a couple hotends so far and have swapped them without re-calibration of control firmware. So they are consistent one to one.

These items worked and are in use in my 3 d printer. However, because I did not know the needed size the read out is incorrect. Not a fault of this product but mine. They work, that allows me to use the printer and I set up with a temp gun. The. Save the displayed number and shoot to that.

Just what I needed when building my 3d printer! also was able to give a few extras to a friend who was having problems with his on his "Anet A8" I believe.

They work, sort of. They do not work well using Marlin #1, and will not show room temperature. I spent two days calibrating the thermistors on my Graber i3 using these. I don't think I'll buy again, it's impossible to find a proper thermistor table for these without making it yourself through trial and error.