⚡ Power Up Your Projects with Confidence!
The High Voltage Boost Converter is a compact and efficient inverter that transforms DC 12V into AC 110V/220V, delivering a reliable 150W output. Perfect for DIY enthusiasts and vendors, this durable device is designed for versatility and ease of use, making it an essential tool for any power-related project.
Output Voltage | 220 Volts |
Peak Output Power Watts | 150 |
Electrical Output Waveform | Square Wave |
Frequency | 20 KHz |
Input Voltage | 220 Volts |
Output Power | 150 Watts |
Power Source | 110v,110v 220v,220v |
Wattage | 150 watts |
Item Weight | 2.72 Ounces |
Item Dimensions L x W x H | 2.3"L x 2.3"W x 1"H |
A**R
Works as expected
I hooked it up to a 50 Watt solar panel that was producing 20 volts. I had difficulty with other converters because they would sound an alarm when the voltage went over 15 volts. This device worked. I tested the output with a volt meter and it read 117 volts ac, 168 volts and 210 volts depending in where I hooked up the meter. I haven't hooked it up to any devices yet.
B**.
Might cook your gadgets
I really wanted this item to work, I was planning on making a portable 120v battery pack of sorts. However, when testing the voltage it was sporadic. Bouncing between 25 and 450 volts. I wasn't sure if this was due to my multimeter not being able to read this sort of boosted voltage (I believe its something to do with the frequency or waveform or something like that). Thinking it may just be my meter I plugged it into my lipo battery charger and it worked for about 3 seconds then fried my charger. Luckily it wasn't too expensive but long story short I would not recommend this product.
J**N
Works great
Load testing gave 170ma into 350v, perfect for my tube tester. Those who are reporting no VAC out probably have meters than wont read a 20khz ac signal. The output is 20khz not 60hz. Cheap dvms will not read above 1khz usually.
P**E
Power output accuracy issue..
The power output supply not correct it go more than 220V it hits 800V or above..Not recommended to buy..
R**.
Second unit, still no VAC out
When the first one performed like this, I assumed it was just a faulty unit and got it replaced. Now the second one is doing the same thing. Not likely to have two faulty units, so I suspect it is something I am doing wrong, but can't figure it out.I have 12vdc going in, I verified the polarity of the wires is correct. But when I check for VAC voltage on the terminals, I don't get a reading.I have tried two different mutlimeters and I have tried using an a/c socket tester. San results, not power on these terminals. Connection here is V0-V2 which should give me 110vac
F**.
llego en buen estado, pero no tienes cómo ensamblar las conexiones, cómo se ves en la presentación.
No es el mismo de la presentación, no tienes cómo ensamblar los cables de alimentación y salidas
R**.
Good inverter board!
Inverter is 20khz. Must use small analog multi meter with face and needle . 2 terminals jumped with solder on board, then put switch in red wire line. If output terminals changed from AC to DC, high frequency, fast recovery diodes must be used. 1- half wave DC or 4 -as bridge rectifier. Put fuse in battery line to switch. Measure volts over output resistor, or use light bulb.
I**C
Works with 12v in at 3amps but smells horrible and makes this awful hissing sound.
I'm not sure If I can use this in any actual applications because it smells like a fire hazard. 12v*3amps is about 32 watts well within this things operating range and it already feels (HOT) and smells like it would burst into flames any minute. It does however power the access control system I am experimenting with so I can't give it 0 stars but I would look for a inverter board that scream at you when you try to apply minimal load to it. XDUPDATE( moved to 1 star because after a few more minutes of testing at 32 watts one of the transistors got so hot it literally soldered itself off the board. Avoid this thing at all costs.)
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1 month ago
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