Microswiss All Metal Hotend Kit (for CR-10s PRO/CR-10 Max/Ender 3 V2 Neo) - Drop in Upgrade - Made in USA

Purchased this to replace the stock hot end on a CR10s pro v1. Works excellent printing PETG and PLA. You will have to adjust the stock height sensor or Z offset (I did the latter for now) as the height from the bed is more than stock. Once that's dialed in you're off printing. Followed the video directions for installation and reducing the retraction to 4mm and have no stringing and prints better than the stock ever did. Saved replacing the entire printer out of frustration on the stock hotend.

After using this Microswiss hot end on my CR10S Pro, and dealing with issues from my other printer running a V6, I feel that I now see the benefit of this design over the V6. The heatbreak on the MicroSwiss is much shorter and since the heatsink "dips" into the heatbreak it is even shorter still. I have never had heat creep with this hot end yet and I have run PLA, PETG and ABS. This short heatbreak seems to really help keep heat creep at bay, whereas the V6 with an all metal heattube which I also have, tends to require more attention to avoid clogs and it seems to require more force to extrude. I suspect the longer steel heatbreak on my V6 is holding and migrating the heat causing the melt area to extend higher up the tube, though I don't find it above where the heat sink starts. In any case I prefer the microswiss over the V6 now hands down.I have also had to contact their customer service on an issue and found they are excellent and get back quickly.As an aside, I think the ultimate direct drive would be a MicroSwiss heat tube + block mated to a compact extruder/hotend like the aero or hemera. I'd buy one of those today if such a thing existed.1.5yr update - the MicroSwiss is still going strong and it's been almost problem free. Clogs are pretty well a thing of the past though they can still happen. When the filament gets stuck it's usually because I didn't remove it correctly. The way I remove the filament is to heat the nozzle to about 20°C below the operating temp and then push it in a bit before pulling the filament out. If that doesn't work then I just heat it to operating temp and push it so some filament is extruded, then let it cool down about 20°C and then pull the filament out. No issues with clogs that way, and probably the best upgrade I've done on my CR10S Pro (v1).Original Review:I have been running this hot end on my CR10S Pro for the past couple months, and have had no major issues with clogs due to heat creep. Installation went off without a hitch in about 10 minutes, just have to be careful not to strip out the grub screw holes in the aluminum heat sink, and tighten things when it is hot (this is the same for any hot end). I picked this up because I wanted to print with higher temps and did not like having PTFE in the hot end when running above 240C. I don't notice any significant difference in print quality, but it has been reliable and looks well machined. I suspect that the nozzles are better quality though, and would probably buy their plated nozzles in the future.The docs I have seen for this hot end specify that retraction should be kept under 4mm, however I have been running it at 5.2mm @ 45mm/s without any issues. I tried 4mm but there was too much fine stringing, so I feel that is too conservative and actually would force me to find something else if it really could not go higher than 4mm.

Can print polycarbonate well

Initially the prints sucked but changing the retractions speed helps a lot! Along with the micro swiss dual extruder I changed retraction travel from 1.5 to 0.8 and my retraction speed went from 25 to 70mm. This is on the CR6 SE. Getting beautiful prints now with Polymaker ABS. Highly recommend following the instruction videos - especially important to follow the part about tightening everything while the hot end is at printing temp. Also don't forget when you change your materials in cura to adjust the travel, retraction and temps etc.Dinged a star for the cost - head seems priced pretty high and the installation was straightforward but not really "easy" per say.

I was quite concerned about switching since I still do use PLA and PETG quite a bit. I thought I would have to wait until I got another printer in order to have one installed with an all metal hot end and keep the other stock for PLA and PETG, but I was quite wrong.Very happy with this product. I have gotten one or two clogs, but without the capricorn tube digging all the way through the cooling block, it is a sinch to simply pop off the tube and use some nylon filament to remove the jam with a hot pull. Again though, the jams are not happening ANYWHERE near as much as many reviews made me fear before I bought this.Only thing I do recommend is that you play with the heat settings yourself. They recommend that you increase the temp by about 5 to 10 degrees after making this switch but I found that my materials do better with 5 degrees less. They come out much cleaner and very well fused. Not sure if it's just my hot end is a bit hot, but since I did decrease the temp I have not had a clog.Also huge huge huge important part to this is the retraction. Remember to both reduce your retraction and to tinker with your retraction speed and restart distance (distance that the printer starts at after a retraction). There is no perfect setting, you just need to tinker with it a bit. It will make your life so much easier by making sure you don't end with tons of clogs and that your prints look clean and tidy without stringing.

Using on an Ender-3 v2 Neo. Had previously 'upgraded' to the Creality Spider 4.0 hotend, but after an epic clog failure it was toast. Did a real upgrade to this unit, only used for a month or so, but this unit works great. It was a direct drop in replacement as advertised, no need to print adapters to make it fit if you want to keep the shroud and cooling stock. Even if you get a clog, everything is easily disassembled, cleaned and put back together. I've had one, but that was a user issue when I went from PETG back to PLA. Video instructions online are easy to follow for installation, printer model was different but the concept is the exact same. Product is very well made. Would recommend and buy again for another printer in the future.

bon matos bonne qualité.

Ich brauchte ein neues Hotend für mein Creality CR-5 Pro H.Mittels kleinen Adapter (den ich mir gedruckt habe), betreibe ich dieses Hotend nun mit einem Orbiter V 2.0 direct drive extruder und bin mega glücklich damit.

Lo compré para fundir ASA, va de lujo, también sigue funcionando bien con PLA. Hay que reducir considerablemente la distancia de retracción, en mi caso pasé de 5mm a 2mm (también puse bodwen nuevo y se nota), pero aconsejo hacer pruebas.

overall very good, nice complete kit.however be very careful fitting the crush olive on the PTFE tube, its hard to get the tension of the nut correct, over-tighten and it will catch on the filament, under tighten and the tube will just pop out, also make sure to get the PTFE tube dead straight when fitting.and finally 1mm retraction.. I'll say it again 1mm retraction settings, if you keep the stock 6 odd mm you will get jams.1mm retractionsay it with me now1mm retractiononce more for the people at the back1mm retraction