PIR Motion Sensor for Microcontrollers & other Electronic Projects

I purchased this sensor for use with an Arduino and it works really well with it.....BUT, you don't need an Arduino for this to be effective. You can adjust this sensor for sensitivity as well as the latch timing, meaning you can use this without any kind of micro-controller. It gives a "high" state when something/someone comes close and it can drive lights or buzzer, open the shutter on a camera, start a motor or whatever just using a relay or transistor. Great product.

Hooked it up, and it worked as expected. Documentation was good, and easy to follow. Shipping was fast.Very happy with this purchase.

This unit was DOA. A real disappointment for me. I moved from an infrared sensor to a magnetic field sensor.

Pros:Tinyworks out of the boxCons:no easy way to mount it directly to a board.when it says that this can be used in simple circuits without an arduino, they don't tell you that the output signal for when this thing senses activity is really only .3 volts, not the 5 volts I was expecting. something to keep in mind, because the output signal cannot actually power anything, it is really only useful for use with a microcontroller or an extremely sensitive relay.

Delivery from Virtuabotix was quick and secure. Item was well-packed in an antistatic bag with basic instructions included.I did not need to download any new libraries. In fact, the sample code that comes with this sensor is only a few lines. The sensor has three pins as described in other reviews and it's about as simple to connect to an Arduino as anything could be. Physically it's thick, so if you've got a proto board or something similar, it's not going to fit just anywhere. I managed to hang it off of one corner with the three pins inserted into three separate rows. It works but it's not elegant.Without a lot of information, I just set about twiddling the two pots on the thing to figure out what they did and found it fairly easy to adjust the sensing range and the time the signal holds high (at least, I think that's what I was adjusting). Right now it's sitting on my desktop lighting up a green LED whenever someone steps into range.Documentation is scarce but can be found with some searching. I'll try to squeeze the online location of a data sheet past the autobots below. Just get rid of the dashes and change "slash" to a real '/' and crunch it together to see the complete address:h dash t dash t dash p:// dash cdn. dash openimpulse. dash com slash blog slash wp-content slash uploads slash wpsc slash downloadables slash DYP-ME003_PIR_Sensor_Module_Datasheet.pdfIf you can't see the address above, that means the autobots have stripped out the URL anyway. Just search on DYP-ME003 PIR Sensor and you should find the datasheet somewhere. Good luck.

This sensor is cheap and perfect for any aplication that you can imagine.You dont need a microcontroller to use it, because the internal circuits process all signals and you can easily attachthem to another simple circuit and make incredible stuff that require detects movement in a room or open areas.I am going to use it in a domotic project and its perfect for my purpose, the only bad point its that the capacitors on the back dont allow you to put the sensor directly on the protoboard, to solve this problem i change the conector to a 90° one.

This is a generic PIR sensor. It works, but poor documentation...it can take some trail and error playing with the two potentiometers on the back to get it to work as desired. No jumper to set retriggering mode (it retriggers by default, not configurable).Limited range. I have it working now in a trail camera, does okay for the price.

Virtuabotix is awesome! The motion sensor had some foam to keep the pins from getting bent and a full sheet of instructions including code and project ideas all inside an antistatic bag. With other arduino bits, I had to scour the internets for how to use them and for code samples, but everything you need for this item is in the box! The only complaint I have is that the pins are male, it's only a problem because I didn't want to buy female-male jumper wires, but some solder and my male-male wires got this working in my breadboard perfectly.