Oatey25531 Hercules Plastic Poxy

It works pretty well, even when there is some moisture present. It cures quickly and pretty hard, but I would prefer a little harder yet.

After reading the good reviews I decided to go ahead and buy one. However after receiving the Plastic Poxy, I found it difficult to mix, it was like I was mixing a tootsie roll. I thought it would be easy to mix like Aves Apoxie Sculpt, but I guess not.

I bought this product to fill nail and finish screw holes in PVC trim, which is not what this product is listed for. However, I compared the MSDS to two other products meant for PVC trim, neither of which were readily available and cost a bit more for less product. The main components and quantities in both products were basically identical to Oatey's Hercules Plastic Poxy. The choice was obvious, I went this route instead.Tips: The working time for my application was about 20 minutes tops. I only knifed off as much as I could work with (thin slice). Kneaded the two compounds together with my hand for a 1-2 minutes until it appeared a grayish blue color. I attempted to take a putty knife after filling the hole to create a even and smooth surface that matched the PVC similar to working with mud on drywall. That didn't work well at all. There was to much drag because this stuff is fairly tacky and wants to stick together. I tried both metal and plastic type putty knifes both to no avail. The Plastic Poxy stuck to the putty knife and took off more than necessary. I gave up and eventually got pretty decent at judging exactly how much I needed to pinch off and roll into a small ball to push into the hole to fill. I then used my fingers to smooth it out. Yes, some holes were rounded out more than others and had to be sanded. Sanding isn't as easy either as it seems this product is actually harder than the PVC trim. Therefore, you have to make sure not to use a sponge type sanding block because it isn't firm enough to sand the hardened epoxy. It will squish around the hardened epoxy and just sand the PVC. Instead, use a solid sanding block with the correct grit sand paper. That way you can apply a nice firm pressure against the media you intend to sand and not surrounding area.

No sheer strength. Dries soft. Soft and brittle (however that is possible) Cracked apart easily. Yes, I know how to mix epoxy putty. Beware, these epoxies for plastic tend to have the worse strength. Something like 400 psi compared to 5000psi or more for regular epoxy. Don't use this for any reinforcement type jobs. Weak. Maybe good as a filler. I have equal luck with non-plastic specific epoxy putties to successfully stick to plastic as these special "plastic specific" putties. I suggest buy the putty with the highest possible psi tensile strength first before buying a weak "for plastic" epoxy. There are epoxy putty's now with 1000's of psi strength.

Attempting to repair a solenoid water valve with a leaking plastic housing, neither plumbers epoxy, pro-poxy or Bondit 45, a formulated epoxy designed to bond to difficult substrates, stopped the leak: none bonded to the housing. As a last resort this Hercules Chemical product, much to my surprise after many disappointments, solved the problem. The valve housing repaired is subjected to constant 70-90 psi mains water pressure. This product is not for use on polyolefins, polyethylenes or polypropylenes.

As far as epoxy goes, this is not very cheap, but it is very worth it for certain applications. I use this for stop motion animation puppets, and it is nice that you can sculpt this stuff. Overall I am satisfied.

I have used this epoxy for years and love it. I haven't found anything yet it won't bond, and it lasts for years without drying out.

Just like it said works great.