Delhi By Heart

“Delhi by Heart” is written by a Pakistani traveler from Lahore and is an admirable ode and a sad lament about the past glory of Delhi, the burgeoning nouveau riches of the Indian capital and the sad condition of some Delhi Muslims stuck in a time warp and unremitting abject poverty in the Delhi slums with no end in sight. Part travelogue, part autobiography and part Delhi's sometimes brilliant and amazing history and sometimes its violent, blood-curdling history written by Raza Rumi-. He is a journalist, a TV commentator and an ex-Government officer who hails from Lahore and traveled to Delhi several times despite some vexing visa issues. He has some very well-connected friends of multiple religious persuasions in Delhi and has journeyed across the length and breadth of this mammoth metropolis. The number of people he has met and has befriended in Delhi is truly impressive. He met and spent time with the iconic late Khushwant Singh and late Qurratulain Haider.—both literary icons of the Indian subcontinent. Sadia Dehlvi is his remarkable host who introduces him to many prominent Delhiites and accompanies him to the dargah of Nizamuddin Aulia and Amir Khusrau. Birth and propagation of Urdu is described with tremendous nostalgia as is the significant and progressive abandonment of this beautiful language ( which is considered a “Muslim and Pakistani language”) in favor of Hindi. He visits the historical monuments—Red Fort, Humayun’s tomb, Qutb Minar and countless others, Ghalib has his own chapter with his many quoted shairs and his brief,Indian sad biography. 1857 mutiny is narrated as a watershed moments when precipitous decline in the status of Muslims commenced. The book provides exhaustive notes and information about ancillary books about Delhi, including. William Dalrymple’s books “Last Mughal” and City of Djinn”, Khushwant iSngh’s “Delhi-a novel” and numerous others. Culinary delights of Delhi, particularly naan, kabob, chaat , biryani and mutton keema --- all of which originated in Delhi, are described with mouth-watering narration. I was riveted by the book, enjoyed reading it immensely and highly recommend it. I would have liked Urdu transliterations of shairs in addition to the translations and would have greatly appreciated inclusions of pictures of Delhi. This however does not detract from this book’s tremendous value. It was a delight to meet Raza Rumi in Louisville on his recent book tour. I am a fan!

Yes, the heart rummages and ruminates the syncretic past of palimpsest of Delhi's lived culture. It begins with patience and positivity with Nizammudin Basti, takes the reader through Shahjahanabad, New Delhi through the monuments and stories linked with them. The focus is also on Lahore-delhi hooked lovers-Khushwant Singh, Amrita Pritam, Sahir Ludhyanwi and Pran Neville among many others. His descriptions of persons like Sedia, Karims, Irfan Habib, Mushirul Hassan and doyens like nationalist leaders of India and Jinnah shows his keen sense of history and its ironies ( communalism, terrorism) despite culinary similarities and sweetness of Nizammudin basti's culinary contribution. My parents came from Lahore. I wanted to but never went to Lahore.Yes, it is true all this nostalgic past is on a decline. That is hinted at about Pakistan too. The title of the book and its text shows that it is Sufi devotion-love and reverence. The second half of the book show Delhi in haste. The author perhaps did not come across any evidence that the earliest name of Delhi was Yoginipura. The sketchy style of the book also ignores substance related to the books strenght-Sufi ism. There is a section on Slave rulers of the 13 th century and some of their links with Sufism. Yet, it ignores the role of Iltutmash and Rezia in connection with these. Nor is there any mention of the significance of Hauz Rani that came up during the former's rule that gave Delhi a preeminent status in the Islamic world. The rest of the Delhi Tehzib as lived experience of people in lanes and by lanes of chandichowk, khari Baoli, the local sense of hospitality, variation of culinary tastes, social practices, market ethos around Naya bazaar, delhi cloth market etc are missing. Ofcourse also the events related to partition as well. Raza ji need not become an archeologist or a man of geology to lay bare the pulsating heart of this lovely city- which is not that of a prostitue. As some one who lived his life auto part adoloscence, I find the book wanting. But since any slice of many splendour end love is good enough, Raza ji needs a read, surely. Delhi is also spelt differently at different times. The expression Dehli comes nearest to its lived dignity.

The book flows well and is very interesting to read. It is a well researched piece of work. The writer's exploration of the city is deep and extensive, and the description captivating. He provides extensive background information generously laced with history.The book is highly recommended to anyone interested to visiting India or exploring its history. The only flaw I could find is that the book lacks an index.

Nice easy read and flow very wellI recommend to anyone this book who is Delhi loverGood read loved it

Need to understand Urdu since references are not explained. This can be annoying. Otherwise, excellent book.

Loved it. Thanks Raza for sharing your experiences. You are truly a Dilliwalla By Heart. Hope one day it will be possible for you to move freely all over India. Thanks again.

One of the most interesting and authentic books on Delhi. Must read book for all Delhi lovers. Raza shows that it's very easy to fall in love with Delhi.

It was a wonderful read. Enjoyed reading every page thoroughly. Looking forward to reading more from this author.

A superb piece of writing. I shall read it over and over, extremely well written and engrossing.

I love this book. Raza Rumi has given such a detailed account of the relevant history that is associated with Delhi, I wish I could transport back in time and view the splendor of this city.If you have lived in Delhi at any point in your life then you should read this book. The everyday landmarks you may cross without giving a second thought could be of some prominent noble from back in the age.My only regret, I can't read Urdu else would have consumed all of poems, gazals and everything written about Delhi or by its once upon a time residents.

If you live in Delhi and want to understand its ethos and evolution then this book is a must read. Written by a Pakistani it brings a whole new perspective to one's understanding of Delhi. From Sufism to food, from architecture to arches, from bastis to townships, from personalities to passport issues, the juxtaposition is put together in lucid prose. If you are a fan of Delhi or want someone else to share your passion about the city go ahead and buy this book to put words to you wishes.

Didn't know Delhi is so fascinating. Visited 'Humayun's Tomb' but didn't have the precious eyes of Raza with me. Going through the book I realise I've missed so much. His mesmerizing descriptions of the people, the places and the events lures me to visit Delhi once again and follow his itinerary thoroughly.

Quite a good read from a Pakistani traveller's point of view. I don't agree with the author on the third chapter still this book is recommended makes a good reading. One thing is remarkable tgat every muslim author of whose work I have read so far agrees that they had a Hindu ancestry.