Absolute USA 2 In-line ATC Fuse Holder, 2 Relay RLS125 12 VCD Automotive Relay SPDT 30/40A and 2 SRS105 12 VDC 5-Pin Relay Socket

Easy to install and my fridge began to work immediately

I just received and opened the package. I can confirm the red, blue, and yellow wires ARE 14 AWG wires. The black and white coil wires are smaller 16 or 18 AWG as stated. The fuse holders are high made quality, 10 AWG red wire, included 30 AMP fuses. and a snap-on cap. The plastic bag did have a MADE in CHINA sticker on it. The 30 AMP fuse holders, I will save for another project, and purchase smaller size holders. I am using these relays as a central door lock system to interface with a remote door lock system, controlling (2) 2-wire actuators, in a '72 SS EL Camino with factory power locks. The actuators draw 5 AMPs each, so a 15 AMP fuse for loads and 5 AMP fuse to protect coils. These are BOSCH type relays, so if the China relays fail, they can be easily replaced with a quality one, plug and play.The relays are rated 30 AMPs, although 14 AWG wire is only rated for 15 amps constantly. I'm a 45 year journeyman electrician. There are ways to remove the spades in the sockets and solder larger wire to the spades, OR connect your larger load wires directly to the relay using female spade connectors, OR find a Heavy Duty relay and sockets with larger rated wires to match your load. Note: there is a big difference, amprage wise, on Momentary and Continuous Loads. Large continuous loads on large fused smaller wires = a meltdown!!!This relay set is perfect for my installation. Double check your total load. Example: (2) 55 watt headlamps = 110 Watts divided by 12 VDC = 9.17 Amps (continuous). + 20% =11.46 AMPS or a 15 AMP fuse on 14 AWG wire. This set-up will work just fine.

excellent product, the relays are heavy and the wiring is very solid.and the cables with the thicker insulation indeed have a thicker conductor.even if they wouldn't have a thicker conductor it wouldn't matter to normal application with the short cables that are attached to them. you can run several hundreds of amps even through the thin wires if you then attach thicker ones to them. I meassured the the wires and the thicker ones are 1.92mm which makes them 2.9 mm sqare. with the wires being 10 cm long they would be good for 1600 amps, calculated with a 3% voltage drop. (1600 amps, no joke if you then connect the correct size to these cables! but over such a short distance you won't have had problems even if the conductors were not thicker)there is a lot of people here that just repeat comments from others without having any knowlege about electrics. and then of course you can't use any formulas for calculations with the odd "awg" thing.if you want to butcher use "awg" if you want to know what;s going on you have to use mm² for calculations.

I have not installed these yet, they seem to be of great quality especially for the price. One relay at a local auto store runs about $8 to $10 so for all this is a great deal. I couldn't believe how thick the fuse holder wires were. They look to be about 8 gauge. The one relay harness are kinda small but the load wires are 14 gauge which can handle 20 amps at 15 foot so really not to bad. You don't have to use them if your planning on running heavy loads. My 20 inch light bar that I will be running off one of these relays pulls 10 amps at 120 watts. Considering the small wires to me is of no concern and this is overall a great value and they shipped fast over usps had them three days from ordering. This is a no brainer if you need two relays you get some bonus hardware!!!!!

Great price for what you get - simple high amp relay, connectors and fuse holders - I used them to keep the voltage drop in my boat to my pumps from being so obnoxious - instead of running all the way from the battery to the control console to the switch and then from the switch to the bilge/bait well bumps over light duty wire and losing a lot of voltage - I just wired the main battery leads via the included fuse holder to the pumps in the back of the boat near the battery compartment to the relay contacts and used the switch on the console to pull in the relay and not have all that amperage going through all that wire and the switch. Now my pumps run at proper speed and pump a lot more

Exactly what i needed..I am using it as the main power relay for my motorized bicycle's lighting system. Yellow is your main power in.Red is normally open = when the relay is at rest power is flowingBlue is normally closed = when the relay is energised, the power is flowing.White wire is the positve for relay, this is attached to one pole on your switch. The other pole of the switch goes to your positive voltage.The black wire is the negative of the relay, this goes to ground.In this fashion, flipping your switch "on", closes the relay and sends positive voltage from the yellow wire, to the blue wireFlipping the switch "off", and positive voltage goes from the yellow wire to the red wire.

After reading reviews everything seemed well except for where people were saying the included harness was smaller gauge than stated, which was fine since I bought it for the relays and fuse holders anyway and was making my own harness with 12 AWG. Honestly for right under $8 shipped that's a good deal just for the relays and fuse holders. That being said it arrived today and comparing with known 14, 16, and 18 AWG wiring I have they must've fixed it since the three power wires are 14 AWG and the trigger and ground wires are 18 AWG. Fuse holders are 10 AWG as stated and the relays look to be as good as quality as what you'd grab from a parts house.

As described worked well

Cheap fuses but change those and your great