SOLAR JNC660G Jump Starter

I've been using JNC boxes for over a decade, they have been great and always worked when needed. This is my third, the other two were stolen from the shop. But the last one I had was in use for 8 years, and never replaced the battery. Only complaint I have on this latest box is the plastic clamps, they used to be heavy duty metal. But, they haven't broken and feel sturdy with a strong clamping pressure. So that may just be me being biased about plastic where I'm used to metal. Get one, you wont regret it.

I do roadside service an this thing is amazingly awesome it never lets me down, I charge it like twice a month cause I use it every day it's easy to charge just get an extension cord plug one end in the wall an plug the next end in the jump start let it charge until the green light appears then call up all dead battery an tell them u got the power to let them live again lol. All the best shoppers.....Dennis from bronx ny work for lighting roadside Express......hey dont pass on this jump start.

What I like that it’s eazy to use light weight and it has a meter of the voltage so when it’s going low also I use it every day I work for the Biggest Roadside service that’s been around for over 100 years not going to promote them but other than that great piece of equipment for the price can’t beat

Great jumpbox

Good quality! Always charged and ready to go. Will jump start several vehicles with no problem. I use this box every day. Originally I bought it because of the hi-viz color, but it has proven to be a workhorse as well.

Holds a good chargeNeeds a on off switch

it works

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I've tried others like this and will tell you some of the differences I see (besides the more obvious things like this has no lights, AC power inverter, or even USB port versus many others).The cables are #2 gauge wires on this, many others are #6 or 4 (which may help send more power, yet the battery size still seems a bigger factor). Cable length may be another item you want to look at since finding a place to set these in the engine compartment can be fun, yet I doubt this would reach from the ground to my car I show in the video.The battery was labeled as "22 amp-hour" rating in the past, not sure why they removed that from the description (not even the battery itself inside shows such now but it is the same physical size as others like that). Many other brands have an "18 amp-hour" battery showing this was said to be a bit better (but I can't verify that in any way).The connection for the AC charger is recessed back in a slot. That being recessed means some AC cords (like ones with a 3 way connection) won't mate with this, but the prongs aren't sticking out to snag things either (or get bent as easily). Having the AC charger built-in makes it so it can't be lost (they used to have a loose "wall wart" charger and others may still have those), yet it's a little more weight you're carrying constantly with it (that could be left at home if weight is a concern).I understand them having the regulator to stop charging once it's full if left plugged in (I've left others plugged in too long), yet after it has the "full" light on it doesn't do any "float" charge while plugged in (several times I've plugged it in and watched the voltage raise to ~14.5V in under a minute to insure it's full, but then it drops back to ~13V just as fast and holds there as if unplugged even after 5+ hours). Even after doing a jump I plugged it in and it just showed "full" like that. If you drop the voltage below 12.6V (like running a light or such for even a minute) it goes thru a real "charge" cycle slowly filling it and then holding the battery at 13.7V for a few hours, otherwise it's shut-down as described above. So perhaps keeping it plugged in will let it recharge if it goes low after a week+, but it's not keeping it "freshly charged" every hour or such to give it any advantage.The 660 units don't have any "reverse connection alarm" or switch for removing power from the cables, so you need to be more careful/sure of the connections with it. Many like that "reverse alarm" feature which is on the 770 packs (and many other brands) as well as no power on the cables (one review said "A fire started from the cables touching in my trunk" showing a valid concern about live wires).Having an actual meter to show battery charge is nice where you can see the voltage, yet their color-coding on it can be somewhat misleading with it showing "full" as anything 13V+. If charging a low battery it may be at 13V while charging, but that's still quite low until it's comes up to 14V+ (where many could easily be confused saying "It's in the full area at 13V, so that must be good enough" when it isn't). Another brand of pack with red yellow and green LEDs for "battery level" has them change during charging so red is ~12.5V, yellow over 13V, and green over 13.5V (but while not charging green is above 12.5V, yellow 12V, and red 11.5V). I like that change since those ranges are exactly what's critical to watch in each mode, yet an actual meter and knowing what to be looking for is the real best (versus lights only hinting "somewhere over 13.5V" leaving you guessing on 13.6V, 14.2V, what?).They included the ESA1 cable for car charging as well as a "Coupon" stating "You can use, abuse, run this over with an 18 wheeler, just send it to us and $85 and we'll fix or replace it like new". I laughed at that coupon since perhaps that shows what the real price should be versus ~130 I've seen them often priced at (and after paying shipping you'll be near that 130 cost anyway).Many ask questions like "Can I use this to charge a car battery?" This is actually another battery where when you first connect it to a car battery via the jumper cables, some power will transfer. I think of each battery like having 2 buckets of water and connecting them together where the water level balances out, but if you only have 2 gallons total you can't fill a 5 gallon and 2 gallon bucket (you need a "water" source to fill them both or "power" source for batteries). The AC charger in this is a "power source" that can eventually fill both, but realize it can take 24 hours to charge the low pack alone hinting a car battery added can take 3 days or more. So if you need to charge a car battery in under 12 hours you need a car charger labeled "10 amp" or better versus the 1/2 amp charger in this.Others ask "How many jumps can I get between charges?" where you may get away with doing 10+ jumps, yet they do say to "Recharge after any use as well as every 60 days when not used". Right after starting a car with it, the car alternator should instantly be recharging the car battery (and the pack while connected), but while that will be happening for the time it takes you to go from the driver seat to the hood, they still say to "Disconnect it ASAP and recharge via AC or the ESA1 cord" rather than leaving it to charge directly off the car like that (which can do some "overcharging", leave a comment for details on that).Lots also like to ask "Will this start my car for sure?" where it has a good chance, but no one can say "It'll ALWAYS get you going no matter what". A lot will depend on things like is the car battery just "low" or is it really "bad" with shorted cells that burn all power applied to them? Lots of factors like that come into play, so only a salesman who wants you to buy it so he can run with your money will make a false promise. The size of battery in the pack is also a big factor also where the JNC300 with a 9 amp-hour battery is only suggested for 4 cylinder cars, the 660 will do most V8s, but even an OEM rep suggests bigger ones than the 660 for diesel trucks with 2 batteries or bigger. Not sure I'll ever understand the "1700 peak amps" titles since there's no way a consumer can pull that power from it for even a second and still have a good unit (showing those numbers are just a sales pitch). One of the reasons I say that is manuals for every brand of these packs say "Never crank a car engine for even 5 seconds or you'll damage it (and void warranty)" showing what even a ~100 amp draw is on this size battery. So realize as it weighs ~15 pounds compared to a 50 pound car battery, the power you can get is about the same ratio. So I'm not saying "It's junk and will never start you", but it's not a "1000 amp continuous power source" either (and if you want more details like the OEM testing details of the "crank assist amps" test for these versus "Cold cranking amps" on car batteries, leave a comment).Hope this and the video gives you a realistic picture of what these can or can't do.