DIY Leaky Basement Wall Crack Repair Kit (10 ft.) with Removable Surface Seal-n-Peel for Homeowners - Repair Poured Concrete Foundation Wall Cracks, the Waterproofing Contractor’s Preferred Solution

My notes:1) Vertical hairline crack top to bottom (cove joint at slab to sill plate), textured poured concrete wall (looks like brick) painted white, roughly 20 years old2) Water leak appeared at the bottom of the crack, only, and looked like it was coming from the cove joint3) Cleaned with a 4” grinder using a wire wheel, could not removal all the paint but left no loose material4) Used the shipping box to mix the 322 on – it sets up pretty quick, mixed fairly small batches5) Applying the 322 to the ports went well, however, because of the textured wall the ports could not make full surface contact6) Plenty of ports in the package (15) but I could have used a third tube of 322 for covering the crack – not enough for 2 inch wide full length7) The caulk tubes (322 & 102) go empty before the piston of the caulk gun is all the way in8) I let the 322 dry for about 2 hours. Watered the ports, top to bottom, one at time until it dribbled out the lower port – some dribbles skipped a port or two9) I thought that the “restrictors” were missing – they were packaged in with the 102 tubes.10) Filled the ports, bottom to top, one at a time until it wept out the next port above – then capped the full port. This step was a bit messy.11) I didn’t use the latex gloves – should have, picked epoxy off my fingers for days12) The work ran late & I had to leave the 322 overnight – big mistake, had to use a chisel & hammer to remove (some sections peeled).13) The crack was thoroughly filled with 102 & oozed out in various location – it traveled along the cove joint to areas I had not noticed any crack14) Final cleaned the repair with 4” grinder / wire wheel and painted out – problem solved, looks great15) What I’d do different next time: 3 tubes 322, finish in one day, wear the gloves

Product was much easier to use than it seemed at first. There is a video on Youtube you can watch....after watching several times I was ready to attempt.First: When first starting off I suggest to mix smaller amounts than they say until you get used to the fast dry time and the best method for you to spread it.Was easy to seal ports to the wall but a little more challenging to find a way that worked best to seal the crack and port bases. IF you have small seepages don't worry about it as the sealer will foam and block the leak fairly quick.As far as the flow rate to inject the sealer go slow....it almost seems like it is too slow but if the crack is complete it will make it. If not you can blow the sealer over the crack off and then you will have a big leak and the material will go the route of least resistance and end up on your floor.Once complete and the recommended drying time has elapsed it was super easy to pull off the wall. My starting piece of tape didn't work but was easy to get paint scraper and get a new spot started and then it peeled off easily. It did leave a slight discoloration but a piece of sandpaper and a light sanding took care of it. The thin crack i had is barely visable after the repair.I had plenty of material to use....in fact I had a whole tube of each extra. Depends on size and thickness of crackSo far have had several days of 3-6 inches of rain and have not had one leak.

Single female homeowner here that has never been handy at anything was able to follow the instructions and video demonstration and successfully do this myself!!! No more leak!!

Good product going to purchase again.Picture shows DVD, no DVD in my order but can review process on YouTubeMy crack was very small in width but water was coming into basementSeveral blow outs, at first it was hard to maintain slow steady pressure with caulk gun.Managed better using 2 hands and watching small bubbles advance in the supply tube, flowing a dead slow speed, no additional blow outsHolding steady pressure with caulk gun for 3-4 min per port can be challengingBoth tubes have dual cylinders inside, because of this your caulk gun plunger will only advance half way down cylinder when empty.Suggest getting better gloves, if you have blow out like me, sticky gloves tear easily on caulk gun.Paid extra for the removable epoxy, was able to remove from wall however next order will go with other epoxy hopefully to prevent blow outs.

Got the system and read the instructions multiple times. Scrubbed the wall then vacuumed to make sure. Mixed about 1/5 at a time and added the nipples and 2" of mix. Let set for 2.5 hours and it didn't fully set. Waited another 2 hours and was only slightly tacky. Waited another hour and seemed hard.Did the water and got flow out of each nipple. Started injecting the foam and it started poping shooting out. Thinking it was just one nipple I went to the next and it also leaked. No matter how much mix I had put on it did not adhere to the wall leading to foam mess on the wall.I would not recommend this due to the mix not setting up and creating such a mess.

There is a learning curve on the use of this product. I have done 2 patches so far, no leaks. It can be tricky to use. Your gonna need a bigger drop cloth than the trash bag they give you. Also, I have a 9 foot wall, 10 inches thick. I wound up using an extra tube of each to get the job completed. If you have a 9 ft wall, order the extra patch kit. You do not want to run out in the middle of the patch.

Worked fantastic. Follow the instruction to the letter and it will work . I actually had more seepage than expected due to the fact that i did not put enough paste around the nuzzle . But it still went just great. No more leaks in the basement.