Watts Premier 24 GPD RO Membrane Replacement Filter 1-Pack Yellow

DESCRIPTION > Color: yellow. All yellow Premier filters are the same size and fit in the same housing. They come in 18, 24, 36, and 50 g/d capacities. You need to match the capacity to your system. My understanding is that if you install a higher capacity membrane, you may have to add a flow limiter to your system. As it turned out for me, my old membrane was a 36 g/d membrane---but the system seems to work well with the 24 g/d membrane. Note also that the black rubber gasket of my 10-year old membrane was at the other end, but does not seem to matter. > This filter is 24 gallons per day, which you should check to see if it matches your existing system. > Genuine Watts #11009---which is important because Watts membranes have a built-in check valve. If you use a non-watts membrane, you may have to add a check-value to your system. > Measurements: 11 1/2" long overall; body 1 3/4" diameter; to fit in a 2" diameter tube > Comes with instructions, which aren't great. But did not exactly apply to my 25-year old Watts Premier system, because the housing of more modern Premier RO systems has been redesigned. I needed to grab the end of the old filter with pliers to pull it out. One end has two O-rings (shown in the photo on the far lower right), the other does not have O-rings but is notched. Pay attention to which way your old membrane was installed. It is as good idea to take photos with your cell phone for each step in disassembly. SUGGESTIONS > Consider replacing all the other filters at the same time---you'll get more life out of the membrane. > I suggest that you start any maintenance by cleaning the black waste-line (so that later cleaning will not accidentally contaminate your new filters). See below. > Consider replacing your tank at the same time---the rubber diaphragm in the tank has a limited life (probably 5--10 years). > Silicon grease is perfect for lubricating the O-rings for the best seal. However, you don't want silicon grease to leach into your drinking water. So if you use silicon grease on the O-rings, be sure to wipe off all excess---just a few molecules thick will do the job. Permatex PERMATEX DIELECTRIC GREASE 22058 > Silicon grease is also helpful on all the "threads" where the filter housings screw together---it allows you to easily tighten them tighter that you could easily otherwise---and when it comes time to replace the filters, the housings should unscrew easier. PREMIER RO WASTE-LINE MAINTENANCE---a good idea to do before you install the membrane filter. > After about 6 months of use, the black waste-water tube can become clogged with a bacterial mat. If you pay attention, there is an odd choking gurgling sound when the tube is almost clogged. When it is clogged, the waste water will leak from the faucet itself out onto your counter. The solution (i.e., to prevent clogging of the line) is to regularly clean-out the black waste-water line. An 18" length of "weed-whacker" cord works well. Detach the black tube from your sink waste-line, and feed the "weed-whacker cord" into the tube and scrub it out. If you've had a root-canal procedure, you know how it's done. Note that the bacterial mat is a nasty sludge---have an old cloth towel handy to catch the gunk. > About 1 1/2 years ago I purchased a "beer line brush" Draft Beer Line Hose Cleaning Brush: 3/16" diameter, which worked well the one time I used it (the 1/4" diameter model might work better). However, it also occurred to me that I could squirt a few drops of Clorox into the air gap to prevent the bacterial mat from forming. Since I've been doing that once every few months, the waste line has not clogged up, so, I haven't needed to use the brush. The following bottle, which works well for this purpose is $3 at the Container Store Nalgene Plastic Drop Bottle. A Beachcombers! 1/2 Oz & 1oz Soft Squeeze Fine Metal Tip Moroccan Blunt Needle Syringe Type Body Art Henna Tattoo Applicators, 5 Tips 4 Bottles would probably be even better. > The air gap is literally a "gap", that is, an open space, or "well", located is beneath the lever, opposite the giraffe neck. For access to Premier faucets with flat sides (without an access hole on the side), pull the giraffe neck straight up and out, then slide the lever forward (in the direction of the giraffe neck). Drip few drops of Clorox into the "well" Do NOT disturb the small black plastic insert---it is the tiny "faucet" where the red water line discharges "brine" into the air gap or "well". To reassemble, push the lever backward (in the direction of the air gap), so that the legs slide under the "T", and then push the giraffe neck back into place. In Premier faucets which have domed bodies (without the flat sides), the air gap is accessible via a hole on the same side as the lever---perhaps for the very purpose of making the air gap easier to sanitize. If you install a domed-body faucet with the lever toward the sink, the hole is most easily accessible. > Click on “Stoney” just below the product title to see my other reviews, or leave a comment to ask questions.

WORKS AS IT SHOULD WITH NO PROBLEMS YOU CAN ALWAYS TRUST PRODUCTS MADE BY WATTS PREMIER!

Overall a good maintenance item and relatively easy to to replace but not simple. System is for a low water use and the water had low TDS but it had been about 6 years since installation. RO filter was discolored but basically the TDS was the same before and after change out. Order TDS meter to check your system. Update for May 2026 Replaced after 3 years. I changed out every component in my 25 year old system because the faucet was constantly gurgling. Changing ASO which did not help. Seems that the RO membranes internal check valve became dislodged and fell out of the housing during replacement. After changing RO membrane and all of the filter it works perfect. About 75% sure it was the internal valve issue but it could have been something else. Just keep in mind that it could be the RO Membrane; however, internet searches never mentioned it as a cause of the gurgling. FYI changing the Membrane every 3 or 4 years is probably a good idea. I Attached photo of small housing with spring and plunger type valve that fell out in case anyone has a similar issue.

This filter is a must for WATTS 5 stage RO (WP5-50) to drop the TDS and PPM!!! My Watts RO is about 10 years old that I originally bought from Amazon and it still works great; I have gone through two faucets, two water tanks and about 2-3 of these RO membrane filters but the system works great. This 50GPD membrane is the heart of the RO system as it plays a key role in removing TDS and sodium as well as a wide range of contaminants such as arsenic, lead, chlorine, chromium, copper etc. reducing impurities down to 1/10,000 of a micron from the water that passes through the sediment and carbon filters first. Hence this membrane filter only needs to be replaced once every 2-3 years depending on your TDS levels while the other ones need replacement every 6-12 months again depending on your local water source. My area has good water and hence our filters last more than a year sometimes. I purchased a cheap TDS meter and tested my tap water at 35 PPM, while the water from the old RO filters at 31 PPM. But after changing all the filters 4 filters it came down to 2 PPM after discarding about 2 tanks of water. Overall, a very good system and filter!!!

Works as expected, good price and last about 4 years with softner installed. Ensure you get the right one for your specific filtration system otherwise it will not produce any filtered water.

This is the original spare part for your Watts RO system. In my case my old membrane had been used for about 4 years with a light to medium demand. So I decided to change. Note for watts filters: I had expirienced low water production with low water pressure and a constantly running (drain) system. So I started changing the carbon and sediment filters. No improvement. Changed the auto shut off valve (ASOV). No improvement. Dismantled everything to check for blockage. No problem to be found. As a last resort I changed the membrane and everything came back to normal. Great tasting water with a lot of pressure and a lot of it. So if your system is constantly running you might want to change the membrane. The system rubs on a very sensitive balance if pressures. A blocked membrane can cause several problems. Change yours as often as needed. They are cheap and extremely easy to change.

My water softener company attempted to replace the membrane in my RO system three times without success. It turns out they were installing the wrong membrane. After a little research I found this membrane. I was also able to find an inexpensive filter kit that contained all of the other filters needed for my 5 stage RO system. I was able to install the filters myself saving me nearly $200. Since this service takes place twice a year that adds up pretty quickly. I definitely needed to watch a few YouTube videos to learn my way around the system and it's a little tough to get the housing for the filters apart to install the new ones but it was worth it in my opinion.

The flow rate on our Watts 5 stage RO filter system suddenly slowed way down and barely produced any water (like 3-4 oz!). It was 5 years since we last changed the membrane so I ordered a new one along with a set of filters. The membrane is pretty easy to replace, just make a note of how the various plastic tubes are connected to each end before you take everything apart. Our old membrane was clogged with what looked like limescale build up which explained the slow flow rate (we use well water). With the new membrane and a full set of new RO and finishing filters, the faucet's flow rate is now back to normal and the tank is holding the expected 2-3 gallons of filtered water.

Buena calidad

I purchased this 50 GPD membrane to upgrade and replace the original 24 GPD membrane in my 10+ year old RO system. It’s been installed for a week now and is working perfectly—the water output and tank refill speed are significantly higher than the original specs. ​Important technical tip for upgraders: If you are upgrading from a lower output membrane (like an 18 or 24 GPD) to this 50 GPD version, this is not just a plug-and-play filter swap. You must replace your original waste line flow restriction device to match the greater flow of this membrane. If you run a 50 GPD membrane with a 24 GPD restrictor, you will choke the flow across the membrane surface and foul your new filter very quickly, especially if you are on hard well water. ​Once properly configured with the correct restrictor, this membrane performs exactly as advertised. Highly recommended for breathing new life into an older system.

I would have to have my water tested to respond to the quality of the product, but I can tell you that it fit my Watts Premier Reverse Osmosis water treatment system, model, WP5-50 well, along with the Watts 7 pack of RO replacement filters. I had a plumber install them and he had no problems whatsoever, so that is a saving right there, as they charge by the hour! I was worried they would not fit before I ordered because the manual recorded four different models. I’m a happy camper, so I don’t think I will ever try generic brands in the future!

Good value. It works compatible

I maintain difference reverse osmosis systems, some 24GPD and some 50GPD and because Watts Premier have a different design compared to almost all other RO systems it's important to buy Watts OEM membranes in order for the system to function properly. What's different...the biggest thing is the Watts Premier membrane has the check valve built in whereas other systems have an external check valve attached to the membrane housing. The theory is that check valves, like everything else, can fail so by replacing the Watts membrane you are also replacing the check valve, which prevents a malfunctioning RO system. High quality membrane, definitely recommend.