POR-15 Six Pack Rust Preventive Coating, Stop Rust and Corrosion Permanently, Anti-rust Protective Barrier, 4 Fluid Ounces, Gloss Black, Pack of 6

First time using this product. I did a lot of research before my purchase and I’ve already used the POR-15 rust protection on my project. I’ll reiterate everything I researched and experienced.* product is expensive, so buy the small cans and use each can as you need it. If you buy a large can and try to save remains for later, it’s extremely difficult to reopen the can. There are hacks out there you can try to preserve the leftover product.* a little product goes a long way. Prep the rusted item the best you can. Remove as much of the loose debris.* POR-15 is very thin and will apply easily. Wear latex gloves, it is very difficult to get off your skin.* use product in a well ventilated area. I was working in my basement, so I used my exhaust fan to expel the fume smell and let it run overnight. The next morning, there was no trace of smell.This is an excellent product and I am sold as a customer!

This product does an excellent job of covering rust and drying rock hard. Will not chip off under normal circumstances

While I needed to deal with some serious "rust remediation" issues with the under-body and frame of my '02 Dakota (after I neglected it through a couple of Northeastern winters), my initial use for POR-15 was the perpetually rusting brake calipers and drums: None of the paint products I had previously used held up for more than 6 to 9 months before discoloration and rusting set in again - even when applied to new (and clean) parts.The only prep I did was to use a hand-held wire brush to remove loose scale / dirt, and degreased with aerosol brake parts cleaner. For my purposes, sponge brush applicators have generally been best when used with a "dabbing" motion on rough-castings to provide uniform coverage and penetration. As has been noted by others: You may be pleasantly surprised by the coverage you can achieve. I was able to apply a single coat to both calipers / support brackets, both drums / backing plates, and the lower control arms with a single 4 oz. can. I used about 6 sponge brushes (2 inch) to do this, so I suggest buying them in bulk.I initially purchased the 6-pack of 4 oz. cans due to concerns about shelf-life for the larger quantities, but learned from experience that the iron oxide acts as a catalyst for POR-15, so applying it straight from a can gradually introduces small amounts of rust to the remaining material, causing it to thicken over the course of a few days use. This may also be a reason for limited shelf-life issues, so you should dispense POR-15 to another container for a small job, or a for larger task performed over a period of time.What truly impressed me was durability: I had removed the brake drums and applied the POR-15, allowing 24 hours for it to "cure". In the meantime, I decided to replace the brake shoes. Once cured, the POR-15 had a uniform gloss black appearance, although I could detect a faint reddish hue in bright sunlight. This was fine with me, as it was only a single coat, and I was curious as to how it would hold up over time. I reinstalled the drums, and then had some issues with excessive drag while adjusting the new shoes. When I tried to remove the drum to check my installation, it didn't budge, so I used a hammer around the rim to assist - and then realized that wasn't a very bright idea with any painted surface - but the POR-15 simply conformed to the obvious dings, and refused to come off even when I tried scuffing the dings with a wire brush.From experience: The only "problems" I have had have been prep-related - all surfaces to be treated need to be THOROUGHLY degreased, and all loose material must be removed. Use good portable lighting if needed. Be especially observant to remove rust "blisters" that form on areas like frame rails - using a cupped twisted strand wire brush on a grinder will frequently only "polish" the blisters without removing them, and rust will start to show again at those spots within a few months. The better tool to use is an air-powered needle scaler that will break the blisters. I've seen that with areas that were properly cleaned and prepped the POR-15 even resists passes with the scaler or powered brush.At this point, after 6 months and multiple pressure washes, the POR-15 treated brake parts still have a fresh appearance, with no rust returning. I have only a few remaining areas under the truck to treat, and I still have a can left from the 6 pack. I won't hesitate to reorder more if needed, and highly recommend it, along with the POR Patch, as effective solutions for persistent rust problems.

Have an old LandCruiser with surface rust on the hitch. Used POR15 on it and the hitch looks like new again (although gloss black). Not sure I need to paint it… looks great as is!! And the six pack of smaller cans makes sure that a larger/standard size can does not dry out before next use.

Good stuff but truly a nightmare to prep for. I'm not sure I can say this feels like a real DIY product due to the massive amount of prep work. I can see it being useful if you're doing a frame-off restoration and you have a huge garage, but if you're trying to coat parts that are on a vehicle or around other painted/finished parts, you're going to have a hard time. The metal prep will eat up your paint. It will also destroy concrete, which I discovered the hard way when I missed a few drops that had spilled onto a drop cloth and cracked my garage floor. It's very difficult to get the prep stage done according to directions as you have to keep the parts wet with metal prep for 30 minutes straight, while trying to keep it from dripping onto painted surfaces, concrete, etc. The marine clean stuff has ethylene glycol in it, which is a toxic chemical found in antifreeze. Not totally sure where they get off saying you can just dump it in the grass.I did a section of my truck's frame in the yard, but I won't do any more of it without like a kiddie pool or something to put my truck in. Even then, I'd need a safe way to dispose of the water/chemical mixture. In my city, it is illegal to dispose of the prep chemicals other than at a hazardous material processing center, and then only in small amounts.More annoying is that after all of that, the sections I coated will need to be roughed up and painted over, because POR-15 is destroyed by UV light. I won't be using POR anymore, I'd rather use almost any other coating that is easier to apply. The rest of my frame and axles are now rubbed with a nice thick coat of oil that I'll be reapplying once a year or so.Gave the product 4 stars because all of this info is readily available if you look through POR-15's website and data sheets, and it seems to work as advertised.