TRQ Front Driver and Passenger CV Axle Assembly Set Neoprene Boots Moly Greased Compatible with 2010-2012 Hyundai Santa Fe 2011-2013 Kia Sorento AWD FWD Automatic

I was very satisfied with this dual front CV axle. The quality felt solid and well made, and it fit perfectly with no issues during installation. After installation, the vehicle drove smoothly with no vibrations or noise, even during turns. It completely restored proper handling and eliminated the clicking and shaking I was experiencing. Unfortunately, snowy weather later destroyed my car, but up until that point, the CV axle worked great and performed exactly as expected—especially compared to the price my dealership wanted. Overall, it was a reliable replacement and an excellent value for the cost.

My dad's a machinist and I grew up in his shop. I've worked in fabrication, assembly, and quality control. I've personally replaced a handful of CV joint sets on various vehicles over the years, and always with automotive store bought parts. Auto parts store products carried a premium, but the quality was reliable. This was my first attempt purchasing from this company (without the middle man) and I thought it risky. My fears turned out to be unfounded. The axle assemblies are machined well and I can tell quality manufacturing and talented assembly went into the finished product. The type of steel and heat treating is correct, the splines are tight tolerance with no wiggle. The spider gear doesn't drag and it's nice and tight; same with the races & housing on the other end. The boots are surprisingly thick and a good grade of rubber. The clamping straps were even applied with care. I'm impressed, and I'm not impressed often. The ONLY criticism I could come up with is that the tool marks weren't polished off all of the steel, but that's cosmetic and would only matter on a show car, maybe not even then. It's obvious from the way these axles feel that care was taken to ensure a high quality product was shipped out. The boot clamp tabs were even neatly folded over. The entire axle was lightly oiled and placed in a thick mil plastic bag, then supported with foam braces, and placed in double thick cardboard boxes. There were instructions included, which would help a novice. The only thing better about my OEM axles is that they have rubber vibration dampers on the shaft, which the replacements don't have; I doubt I'd be able to notice the difference though. The car drives like butter compared to original axles. For the price, I think I got a bargain with this quality. I'm not sure what to do with my cores... Parts shops used to want them in exchange...

Perfect Fit!! 2022 ram 1500 Rebel 4wD crewcab

I spent hours replacing the cv axels(2004 F150 Triton), I’ve never done it before so I assume it took a little longer then some people, but after all that work, I hit the road for a test drive and it was worse then ever before, i hit 40mph and the truck started vibrating like crazy and had a loud whooshing noise from one side. I Had to pull these axels BACK OUT and replace them with cv axels from O’Reillys and it solved the problem. They sent me a bad axel and it wasted about 10 hours of my time putting them in and then having to take them out. After getting the OEM axels I noticed these ones are a hair shorter, and also don’t go into the IWE actuator the same, they fit in thick and you can’t see if they seal properly. DONT WASTE YOUR TIME OR MONEY the OEM ones are about $40 more and it’s well worth it. I was extremely disappointed with this purchase.

It's been a year and no issues. They were alot heavier than the stock cva's, quality seemed ok, they do humming a little bit at higher speeds but for the price it works for me.

The cv axles themselves were top notch. Good quality, once installed they fit perfect. The only issue I had was the circle clips that were on the spline side of the axle. For whatever reason they made it impossible to seat the splines properly. I ended up having to remove the cirlce clip from the old axles and place them on the new ones. After that they snapped right into place as they should have.

!!Udate they send out a replacement thank you good customer service I'll change this review if they reach out to me but I been buying trq products for 5 years and I have bought many but for some reason I'm noticing some things aren't lasting me like for example this one dint last me a year and it's already rip.. another is the control arms I bought for my mazda dint even last 4 month I'm starting to not want to buy trq products anymore the bad does not outweigh the good though I bought many products that were good and perform great but I need someone to reach out to me ..

I find these axles very close to OEM quality and I have no hesitation recommending them. Notes: Many reviewers state that passenger side is the bugaboo of the two to remove/install, probably because of the large, center C-ring retainer squeeze together out, squeeze together in maneuver. If up on jack stands, use long-jawed (good condition) needle nose pliers to reach in and grip its ears, and it's not that hard. On a lift reaching it with other plier types is possible. It's also the easier of the two sides to remove from the differential and re-insert. It doesn't have the driver side's tricky spline groove alignment or inner circle ring resistance, so it really just slides out, slides in, and is supported by its center bearing housing. Driver's side is often a stubborn pry-out. Don't fool around with slotted screwdrivers and makeshift shim leverage cobbles unless you like to go looking for trouble. Plan ahead. If you don't own or can't rent (deceasing labor cost savings) /borrow a specialized CV axle puller attachment for use with a slide hammer (I don't), use two pry bars at approx. 3&9 and be patient, slowly applying enough force to overcome its inner retainer ring. Another method that requires more prep labor and two people, is to remove manifold air box and driver's CV axle shield for top access. One person can then use the longest pry bar from above, while the other person levers from underneath with next largest sized pry bar to free its shaft. If someone is willing to assist, this is the second best way to do this step after slide hammer/puller attachment method. Be extra careful not to drag out/push-in axle ends at an angle to avoid tearing differential seals. Inserting a new driver's side axle isn't as easy as passenger side. I hung its outer axle end from strut spring with a couple bungee cords to keep it fairly straight and its weight suspended so that I could use both hands to guide/insert its splined shaft into differential and ring retainer seat. Lube its end with some transmission fluid, insert and jiggle it until it feels like its grooved spline is starting in correctly. Work it in the rest of the way using firm, as even as possible, press-pushes on its inner solid joint housing, never from mid-shaft. Resist the temptation to bang it in with a hammer and punch on joint housing or innermost debris deflector ring closest to differential (It's a press fit piece that can come off if hammered). Driver's side CV axle replacement process is easier said than done (especially if working alone, and/or w/o a puller tool), but I've done it successfully avoiding above mentioned pitfalls, and I'm an amateur. If this is your first time doing CV axle replacement, take your time, if using jack stands, use long-jawed needle nose pliers to reach in and compress the passenger side's big C-ring retainer, use pry bars for driver's side axle removal (if w/o puller tools), and don't get driver's side crosswise and start trying to force it -coming out, or going back in.