Direct Ignition Coil - 673-1309 (Fits Select Models and Years of Lexus, Toyota, and Scion Vehicles)

2008 Sienna - Denso 673-1309 Ignition Coil - Excellent Replacement. Got dash indicators VSC, Trac Off, Check Engine, and using my OBDII code reader found OBDII error code P0356. Indicates this is a malfunction code for the #6 ignition coil/igniter assembly which is Bank 2, cylinder #6. Cleared the codes but it came right back. Luckily this is the cylinder bank next to the radiator with #6 on the end closest to the battery. Popped the engine cover off by pulling up on both sides of the cover. Removed the connector plug from the #6 ignition coil and removed the 10mm retainer bolt for #6. Swapped out the Denso 673-1309 Ignition Coil and tightened the 10mm retaining bolt. Reattached the connector plug, started engine, cleared codes with my code reader and the code did not come back. Replaced engine cover. All better now. always opt for Denso. Pay a little more for Denso, but very reliable and still save 60% with Amazon pricing compared to parts store.

best price available for a toyota denso coil. autozone wanted $120 per coil, i got this one for just under $50. it seems to be authentic, and went in with no problems. cleared my check engine light code p0354 and car is now running great again. should last a long time compared to the aftermarket coils

Works great on my tundra. The old one went out and this was a perfect replacement. I’ve used this brand on several of my cars over the years and have never had an issue.

Works well, no issues so far.

I had multiple misfires on a 170k Lexus rx350. I wasn’t about to replace two or three and have to do it again. If you don’t plan to do it yourself, don’t read any further. Just know that the products are high quality and I wouldn’t get those $88 for 6 coil deals. What’s needed. Bud light is most important. Ngk plugs at $8 a piece. No gaskets or seals need replacing. 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, Spark plug remover, Allen key. 2”, 6” extensions and ratchet of choice. That’s all that I remember. This was such a major pita to change out. In order to do it easily, I highly recommend removing 1) windshield wipers and the metal tray spanning from coil over to coil over. 14mm, 3 each side for the tray. 10mm to remove the tray and the windshield motor. Windshield arms are held on by 3 14mm nuts. Careful with the windshield wiper removal. 2) remove the 4 10mm bolts off the intake thingy that’s bolted to the intake plenum. Don’t remove any hoses on the aluminum thingy. I think it’s called the map? Has the aluminum flapper that controls air entering your cylinders when you hit the gas. 3) remove the intake plenum itself. This was what made it o so much fun! There’s two 12mm bracket bolts In the back. The one on the passenger side is the one that makes you hate working on Japanese cars yet love it for its reliability b/c you know you’ll only do it once in your lifetime before you sell it (in my case, I’m not selling lol). The passenger side, remove the 12mm bolt on the bracket that’s on the block (it’s attached to block and intake plenum). Driver side, remove the bolt on the bracket bolted onto the intake plenum. I remember removing three vacuum Hoses. If it’s a soft hose it’s a vacuum hose. You’ll know what I mean. Remove what’s necessary. Take a rubber mallet and rock it’s world till it comes loose. Rock it forward and cover up the intake holes b/c if a bolt falls in, you’re going to need to give away the car a this point. Make sure you have 12” zip ties. If you don’t have it, have two 6” zip ties to make one zip ties. These will be used to hold the harness onto the coil/plug harness. Remove and do one cylinder at a time. This means changing out the plugs. All my plugs were almost bridging and way out of spec (0.050+). Each harness you remove, it will crack the retaining plastic piece. So use them zip ties I mentioned. Reinstall is the reversal of the removal. Did I torque everything down to spec? No I didn’t. It’s not like it’s my diesel where certain things need specific torque settings. Wish ford would build my diesel like my Lexus lol. Who ITH uses 7mm, 8mm, 11mm all in a mixed bag??? You should really have a professional do this - I’m just a treeshade mechanic that likes to save mine. I’m also cheap too. Anyways cheers folks!

Can’t prove the performance over the stock Toyota Ignition Coil but since this is the same brand used on The Toyota Assembly Line you know the aftermarket version will be as reliable if not better and I can be rest assured I will easily go another 120,000 miles before having to the replace this coil if not longer! Worth the extra money to put in a part that is not readily easy to access on the rear of this transverse engine on my 2007 Toyota Camry 3.5L V6.

It worked great my car is running just like new

This item solved my problem fit was perfect and it works well.