5.5 Inch Felling Wedge Chain Saw Logging Supplies Set of 4

These are plastic felling wedges what can I say about them? There is not much that can go wrong.The plastic is hard, and should be durable. I took down a tree a few weeks ago that I had a very small area that I wanted it to fall through, so I wedged it to encourage it to fall the right way. These worked very well. The small spikes on the flat of the wedge keep them from backing out on their own. You can see in the photos that the back of a few of them have been marked by my sledge. I am not sure how long these would last in a professional environment. I assume that the back end would eventually flare out with repeated pounding, but for the homeowner these will last a long time. One of the other photos shows why you should always use a plastic wedge vs. a metal one for felling. I nicked the corner of the wedge with my chainsaw and took the tip of the wedge off. This is acceptable and worked exactly like it should have. Metal wedges and chainsaws don't go well together. Keep in mind that they are only 5.5 inches, so don't be surprised by their size.

The media could not be loaded. These wedges are great for felling trees around 22" diameter and smaller. They are small and you can easily fit 3 of them in your pocket. They are plastic so if you accidentally hit them with your saw it wont wreck your chain like a metal wedge would. Larger wedges are good for huge trees if you are a professional logger, but these small ones are great for 99% of what most home/ farm/ranch owners would be cutting down. They stay in place and make directional tree felling safer. You can see in my video where a larger Husqvarna wedge came out and fell on the ground as the tree was coming down, the other two that stayed in place are these timber savage 5.5" wedges. This was a 35 year old loblolly pine around 90 feet tall.

Plenty sturdy pounding in and held position well. Nice compact wedge for smaller trees.I own a tree service and had a smaller tree with a lean that the first wedge didn’t push over so I doubled these up with the smooth sides together and over it went!

These wedges work great! I cut a lot of firewood and have used many different brands of wedges over the years. While it's not that difficult to find a good wedge if you don't mind spending a lot of money, the cheaper wedges that I have tried in the past have been very disappointing.These have barbs on one side that help to prevent them from backing out but are smooth on the other side so they can be stacked if necessary. The material is not brittle and prone to breaking like some.These are made in the USA and get the job done while leaving some cash in my wallet😉

Until I accidentally dropped a tree on a fence at the farm, I used to judge a tree’s center of gravity by eye. After that, I'd sight with a plumb line. I might use a rope or cable, but I wasn’t familiar with felling wedges.I wanted to remove a Bradford Pear that was 42’ tall and 19” in diameter at breast height. It was 22’ from the house, 10’ from a stop sign, 10’ from one street, 20’ from another street, 20’ from one Dogwood, and 30’ from another. I’d never felled a tree with so little room for error.To make it fit the available space, I removed some limbs with a 21’ pole saw. Now I just had to park it precisely and without a hitch. I read up on wedges. Lumberjacks typically make the back cut slightly higher than the vertex of the notch, but one extension service said it's better to make them at the same level. That may reduce the risk of a disastrous error.In the past, I’d sawed slapdash hinges. This time, I tied a string around the trunk as a guide.I started my notch with a horizontal cut. That way, I could check my aim by inserting a framing square. A hinge should be 80% as wide as the diameter, so I stopped when it was 16” wide. The cut was 4” deep at the center, so I cut the bark 4” above it. Then I rotated the saw around the trunk to extend the groove down to each end of the cut. That gave me a guide to saw a 45-degree notch without having any cut go too far. The notch would keep the hinge from breaking until the tree had fallen 45 degrees.I had my 10-pound hammer because a big hammer will drive wedges more efficiently and cause less damage. To start the first wedge, I tried a 1-pound claw hammer out of curiosity. The third blow bruised the wedge. After that, I stayed with the big hammer. There was no more damage.A hinge should be equally thick from side to side. My saw bar is only 16”, so, as the back cut neared the notch, I’d insert the framing square to see if both ends were equally close. When it was about 1” thick, there was an unexpected shower. The gusts weren’t more than 10 mph, but, lacking experience with felling wedges, I was fearful. After that, it took very little sawing before tapping the wedges started the tree falling. It landed exactly where I’d aimed.I measured on the stump, did the math, and discovered I’d been a Nervous Nellie. The hinge had been 16” long and 3/4” thick, or 12 square inches. Very roughly, the tensile strength of wood is 6 tons per square inch. The greatest pressure on the wedges had been about 1 foot from the hinge. The hinge may have been strong enough to resist 72 foot-tons. It would be hard to get that much pull even with a bulldozer and cable. The weakest part of the system may have been at the wedges. Distributing the load over 4 wedges instead of 2 may have doubled the strength.I wish I’d known long ago how to use wedges. I’ll save my rope for trunks with signs of rot and trunks too small to drive wedges behind a saw.

Perfect length - just what I had ordered. I have the 8" ones from this manufacturer and they have served well, but I tend to use the 5.5 inch ones more frequently for felling medium trees (14 - 16" diameter). The 4 pack is a bargain.

They will wedge into a tree brand new out of the box. I was pretty aggressively smacking them into my cut and they got pretty deformed all around on the first day out. They are still usable and ill use them until they totally break but dont count on them to last long, but if you need something to get you by for a little bit, these will work. Probably wont reorder them.

Nice price, nice size and you don't have to worry as much about actually getting them INTO the job and making it so much more reliable to put the tree where you want it. For pros, they've got the training and experience but for those of us that just have the occasional tree that has to come down (and NOT on the fence) it surprised me how much I've come to rely on these.I know I'm not using them properly all the time, but they even come in handy when I'm bucking them. Sometimes you'd swear you knew which way the pressure was going, but all too often I'd get the bar pinched. So, use these when you just don't have the time to rescue your saw and they make things a lot easier.