Waterproofing SuperPatch by Damtite Waterproofing

So I have only 1 hand, and had no trouble opening the container, so I'm not sure what some users are struggling with... pull off the tab, all the way around, then pry the lid up, one flap at a time. I just used my fingers, but if you don't have the finger strength for that, you might need a screwdriver to pry the segmented flaps up, as they're sturdy so the lid is watertight.Another user is right, it WOULD be nice if the powder was in a bag, so you could just mix in the product bucket, but I used a sacrificial bucket with mixing ratios printed on the side, and that way I now have some clean reusable watertight buckets!My garage used to be just a garage pad, and was exposed to the elements for 40 years. There was one big spall about 1'x8"x1.2" and lots of smaller spalling and several cracks, from 2" to hairline wide.Based off my research, it seemed most products either are crack fillers/sealers OR surface/spall repair, and most surface repair products don't seem to have the structural/traffic rating that I need AND aren't rated for the depth of the damage I'm repairing...This product seems to hit the sweet spot of structural strength, spall depth rating, and crack repair.I don't really care about waterproof ratings, but it's nice that it's waterproof if I bring a wet vehicle in the garage.I chased most of the medium cracks with a used tuck pointing grinder, which is probably overkill, but I really wanted this stuff to get into the cracks and stick well. I actually made the whole spall 1" deep so the edges weren't super thin...I found the product to mix easily with a drill mixer, and be very workable. Hopefully I didn't get too much entrained air in the mix, but I think it's ok... I had the whole batch placed within 15 minutes, though, and it's essentially an epoxy, so keep an eye on your batch times.I ran out of product before I could get onto trying to work the stuff into 1/4" deep spalls, so I'm not really sure how it does in thinner placements.So there's no confusion, the dark spots are oil stains, the white liquid is oil eater, and the light area next to the north-south crack patch is surface grinding I did to remove old, failed, repair mortar.If it starts to break up or delaminate I'll edit my review, but for now (as it's still curing) I'm very satisfied!Edit: I needed more, looking back I wish I'd just ordered a 70lb unit, which doesn't seem to be sold on Amazon unfortunately!My second order was different from the first. The first buckets were made by Ropak and opened easily! The second batch was packaged in containers manufactured by Century Container Corporation, and I just said F-it after a few minutes of fighting, and just cut the rim and seal off the lid itself. Vastly inferior container... similar design, but the flaps are much stiffer, and can't be pried up with fingers...

The Superpatch was easy to mix and spread after doing the recommended concrete prep. I mixed half the container, measuring the 2/1 ratio. It filled some cracks and broken-out surface spalling. I used 60 sandpaper on a sanding block after it set, but before it cured too hard, for smoother patches on my garage floor. It dried lighter than my concrete but worked well and is holding up to foot traffic with no cracks.

I used this product to repair several deep spalls and cracks in my driveway. I liked the ability to adjust the consistency with more/less powder. I found it fairly easy to work with, but was a bit hurried because I was afraid it was going to skin over fast. On a warm fall day, I would say I had about 10 mins before it skinned over, so plan your approach before you mix. I was able to cement some large pieces of original concrete back into place. I also placed pebbles in deeper repairs in layers as I applied the Damtite material to make the material go farther. Cured hard as a rock. Waiting to see how it goes through the winter. My only criticism is that the 7 lb kit doesn’t go that far for the price. The manufacturer states the volume at 105 cu in. Seemed a bit less than that to me, but estimating the volume of an uneven repair is tricky. So you might consider ordering the 15 lb (much more cost effective) for a project of any size. I ended up ordering 3 7 lb. kits for my driveway repair project.

I uploaded a bunch of pictures to show the beginning, middle, and end of my project. Here's the situation, in my entry way about 70% of the tiles had been removed. In the remaining 30%, there were some tiles that were okay and some were broken in half. They had all been painted over with epoxy paint as-is. What I wanted is to repair and also create new tile.I was surprised at how much product this took. I ordered 2 - 7lb. pails initially but ended up needing 9 or 10, 7lb. pails. It makes sense though, it's going to take a lot more product to actually create tiles rather than just repair cracks.One thing I loved about this product is the powder and liquid are separate and you mix up how much you need. I'm not super-fast so I just made one tile at a time. I would say the ratio is about 2 parts powder to 1 part liquid. Once you mix it a few times, you'll get the hang of it. I wanted a thick mix to make it easy to mold but not so thick that it would dry to fast. The only tool I had was a piece of wood to smooth edges and my hands.The end result is the last picture with the white paint and top gloss. I'd say it's not perfect but I'm still very happy with it. It also dried as hard as regular tiles and seems extremely durable. I've never done anything like this before, but it was pretty easy to use and wing it as I go. Would buy again.

With the acrylic mix that comes with this product it sealed up the cracks and breaks completely. With a bit of time and wear it will match the old concrete nicely. Well worth the money time and effort. Would like to see a bit more product for the money but then again I always do.