Aluminum Zinc Water Heater Anode Rod (44-inch Flexible) by Kelaro

Like other folks, I used an 1-1/16" socket and an impact wrench to remove the old anode rod. There was a slight problem getting the socket on the rod since the sheet metal opening to the rod was manufactured off-center. After bending the metal around the opening, I was able to get the old rod out. The new rod was easy to install. Drained the tank, dosed the tank with one pint of hydrogen peroxide and flushed the tank again. After one week, there is a slight odor remaining when using hot water. Hoping that we will get back to the odorless well water that we enjoyed before, but I'm thinking that it will be necessary to replace the tank.

My 50 water heater required two anode rods. It takes a bit of torque to loosen up the old anode rod. You'll want a length of pipe as an extension for the socket wrench handle. Once the old rod is loose, it's very easy to remove the old one and install the replacement. The entire project took about 15 minutes. The water smell improved very rapidly. Next day the smell is gone. Highly recommended.

I have a 50 Gallon Whirlpool Water Heater (electric) This Anode rod, fits perfectly. The instructions on the box are very clear and easy to understand when replacing your Anode Rod!If you are wondering the life span on Anode rods is typically 3 to 5 years, depending on the type of water you have running into your home! Anode rods may have to be replaced sooner than the given life expectancy.I had to use a impact gun to remove my old Anode rod! It was really in there and I only drained if 2 gallons from the tank, Had a breaker bar and a helper bar and that rod would not turn, was just really in there. Thankfully I had the impact gun.I would recommend you use an impact gun, I have a craftsman cordless impact gun and that did the trick, but I recommend that when you use an impact gun of anytime, go very slowly with it, hit it with the gun on a few burst, and it will take it out, you want to be careful not to cross thread or damage your threads in your tank, or you will most likely be buying a new water heater.Overall, I give this product 5 stars, its easy to install, the instructions are very helpful and clear in understanding the procedure.

Perfect for "rotten egg" smell and water heaters that don't have a lot of space above them:I live in the country and have well water. Replaced my water heater recently due to an electrical be issue. After I installed new heater, hot water developed "rotten egg" smell. Classic for well water and standard magnesium anode rod.This is how I used this product in my 40 gallon electric water heater. I'm not a professional nor do I claim to be. Follow this advice at your own risk. I'm just a home owner that replaced it myself.Turn off power at the breakers, valve for inlet water, then drain about 3 gallons of water out of the heater prior to work. Drain my using opening the valve at the bottom of the heater and opening the purge valve located close to the top. You'll want to have a standard garden hose connected to the drain valve or something to catch the water with. You want to keep most the water in the heater for weight as the original anode rod is very tough to remove.Find the plastic cap on top of the water heater labeled anode (check your owners manual for location of not labeled). Remove cap and save. Next, you'll need a knife to remove the couple inches of foam insulation concealing the 1 1/16" bolt head to the rod. Starting along the edge, I pressed the knife down until it hit metal then cut along the circle hole. Try to remove foam in as whole of a piece as possible. Do not discard the foam "plug" you have cut out. Set aside foam and plastic cap for later.Now you have access to the rod. You'll need a 1 1/16" deep socket and a breaker bar or impact. I attempted this with a breaker bar and still couldn't get it to break free without the water heater moving. I tried with all my might. (I'm in my 30s and 6'2 - 250 lbs). Ended up using a 18v milwaukee impact. Worked like a charm. I highly recommend.Once free, remove the anode rod. I had to use needle nose pliers to grab it as it was a few inches below the top of the heater and couldn't get my fingers in there to reach it. If you do not have room to pull the rod out in one piece, you can cut it in sections as you remove it. I used vise grips to hold below where I was cutting so it wouldn't fall into the water heater. I can't stress enough to prevent this from happening. You cut the top off and the bottom falls in... You'll have fart water forever. I used a 18v milwaukee sawzall with bi-metal blade.If you don't want or don't have the means to cut the rod, you can do a second option. I don't recommend and didn't do this option as it makes you disconnect utilities you might not feel comfortable handling.(Second option)Drain most the remaining water out of the heater using the drain valve at the bottom. Not all. You do not want to expose the heating elements at the bottom of the heater. Detached the cold water inlet and hot water output plumbing from the heater. Have something handy to catch residual water in the lines. Disconnect the electrical wires coming in to the water heater. Make sure the power is off and that there is no voltage at the water heater prior to touching. Test with voltage tracer or meter. If you don't feel comfortable or capable, NO NOT TOUCH ELECTRICAL UNLESS YOU KNOW IT'S SAFE! Now you can lean the heater over near horizontal and pull the rod out in one piece. Remember to put back the heater in roughly the same location and orientation. Then reconnect the plumbing and electrical.This next step I did is optional but will remedy the smell in your water heater. Poor 16 oz of hydrogen peroxide for 40 gallon heater to cleanse the egg smell from your tank and plumbing. This ended the smell in my lines almost instantly.After removing the rod, clean any debris that may be in the hole or on the threads in the water heater. Get your new anode rod and put teflon tape on the threads for sealant. Install into water heater. Tighten with impact or breaker bar with 1 1/16" socket. I tightened with impact THEN the breaker bar for added measure.Remember that foam plug and plastic cap? Put the insulation back over the top of the anode rod and then seal back off with the plastic cap.Turn cold water inlet valve back on. Allow water to fill. Once full, turn power back on at breaker.Allow time to heat and let the peroxide work. After an hour, go to your furthest hot water spout and run it for a few minutes. Then run all the others for a few minutes. This isn't necessary but will help flush out all the smell out of the lines.You are done!Mine has been installed over a week and not even a hint of the smell has returned.Remember to change you anode rod every 2 to 3 years as it is a sacrificial rod and will dissolve away in tank.Good luck! Remember, if you don't feel comfortable, call a professional.

The separated segments really help make it easy to install. Getting the old one out was a challenge.

Very good quality, and perfect fit.

We purchased a new water heater and it made our hot water smell BAD. we are on well water with a morton new softener (purchased last year so i knew that wasnt the issue)switched out the one that came with the water heater and put a bottle of peroxide in there as well. BOOM! problem solved. Highly recommend!

I had got a new water heater and the magnesium rod in it made my water smell bad! I replaced the rod with this one and it solved the problem!

good product

Our hot water tank.

Works well with hard water. Too bad it doesn't ship from Canada. Had to pay import fees and shipping.

N'ENLEVE PAS L'ODEUR D'OEUF POURRI A L'EAU QUI SORT DU CHAUFFE-EAU.

Worked as promised. I would recommend over a stiff bar as most water heaters are located in spots with limited overhead space to insert a straight-up solid bar.