LichampA/C R134A Refrigerator Freon Recharge Kit with Bullet Piercing Valve, Piercing and Self-Sealing Can Tap 134A

This works Very well, It has all the attachments needed to do everything I needed, I used it ti recharge a small refrigerator and also on cars, You will save $ hundreds by doing it yourself, If you don't know how there are Many videos on line.

Great product!

I have an old truck that leaks refrigerant each fall and winter. Every year I had to purchase a new attachment hardware piece, because it was made out of cheap plastic. This rig is robust rubber hoses and metal attachment valves. The valves worked as I hoped recharging my truck AC. The gauge measure how much goes in and what pressure the system has. I am very happy with this purchase.

My whirlpool refrigerator wrx988sibm03 started having trouble cooling. First the ice in the door started melting and it wouldnt make any more ice. Then I noticed the freezer just wasn't getting cold enough and the fridge area was holding at low 40s. I moved any good food to the chest freezer and then checked the freezer evaporator. It had a fist size ice chunk right on the lines coming straight from the compressor, and the rest of the evaporator had nothing on it, which is a sign of low Freon. I also noticed an ugly solder joint that had the oily film, probably the culprit. I plan on using some silicone tape and a pipe clamp if I continue to lose freon.I hooked up this new valve and got some automotive R134A from walmart with leak stop. It wasn't very hard, just take your time and check out youtube, there are plenty of videos on how to do it. It took maybe an hour and saved me 3000 on a new fridge.Also one tip: The red handled valve you use to put on your self sealing can- If you twist the handle too far out IT WILL LEAK THERE during filling! So when you hook up your can, slowly turn the handle until you hear freon hiss out of the other end. This will get as much air out of the hose and be your stop point while you're filling your system. Then you can connect the other end to the bullet valve. (Then you retract the piercing screw to fill the system) I didn't have any trouble with the bullet valve's piercing screw leaking when the needle was fully retracted during the filling step, but its always good to just turn it maybe a half turn to open the valve. You need to it open just a tiny bit.Also make sure you clean the copper tube really well. Use some ultra fine sandpaper (400 grit, I only had 220 so I had to be super careful not to ruin the pipe) and gently sand it. Use some alcohol and a sponge to clean the debris off so its nice and shiny.The fridge is making ice again and has been working great. Hopefully I can get a few more years out of it. Hopefully this review helps someone!

Last charged it up two years ago and it was finally blowing hot again - and my old recharge gun no longer worked. Ordered this system yesterday.Instructions were included but lacking in a couple of details - like which side goes to the can and which side goes to the low-pressure port on the vehicle. I went back and forth a couple times but finally it seemed to work best when - with the gauge facing you topside up, the can connects to the right and the port on the left.Next problem was the self-sealing cans like to stay sealed - even when supposedly open. I found it necessary to back off the valve a couple turns, and it would actually only allow coolant to flow in a range of about half of one turn in the right spot. To confirm flow, I would slightly loosen the threaded connector attached to the low-pressure-port quick-connector. I'd turn the valve all the way in, and then slowly back it out until coolant flowed out the other end - and then I would quickly tighten the low-pressure-port connector. Kind of a PITA to do by yourself but that proved a reliable technique for every can.My last problem was the system was so low the compressor clutch wouldn't engage. Took me about 45 minutes of holding the can up high, shaking it and slowly gravity feeding coolant into the accumulator until enough leaked in to make it past the low pressure switch and activate the compressor clutch. Of course it would run one second, pressure would crater, it would disengage, and I'd go back to drip feeding.Over time, the compressor would engage more frequently and run longer, until I finally tickled the blue zone and it started sucking in refrigerant in earnest. Soon the accumulator started sweating and we were getting ice cold air in the cab.Time will tell how long this lasts. That system was EMPTY. Probably have multiple shrunken/cracked seals. Fortunately it appears the evaporator is right on the firewall at the top of the engine bay and easy to reach. Grateful for that.Long story short - kit worked just find and I would recommend to others.Thank you for coming to my TED talk.

My ~2004 Whirlpool side-by-side fridge wasn't keeping things frozen any more, and the ice maker had stopped working. Service call was quoted at $120 just to show up, plus at least $100 if they recharge it, and more if there's another problem.Using this took me a couple of hours total, including reading and watching some tutorials, but totally worthwhile.It does seem to be somewhat risky, as you could make your unit non-functional or even destroy the compressor if you screw it up too badly. But with some care and understanding, it's definitely do-able by any reasonably handy person.I got a small can of R-134a from a local auto parts shop, and I ended up adding about half the can in very small batches over two days to ensure that I wasn't over-charging. I would add some, and it would have to run for a while to bring the low-side pressure back down around zero.About a month on, the fridge and freezer are working perfectly.