Oxygen (O2) Sensor - 234-4622 (Fits Select Years of Lexus: ES300(h)/NX200t/NX300(h), Pontiac Vibe, and Toyota: 4Runner/Avalon/Camry/Corolla/Matrix/Paseo/RAV4/Sienna/Solara/Tercel Vehicles)

After installing the o2 sensor my lights didn't come back on. Works fantastic. FYI, i changed my fuel ratio sensor the same time i changed my o2 sensor, these two devices look alike and they work in conjunction with each other. Save yourself a 600$ Bill from the shop. Note: Make sure your car is bone Cold before doing the work or you'll burn yourself. 1. Buy an o2 sensor socket for 10$ at the shop or here on Amazon to help you remove these devices. 2. Use WD40 or whatever proper penetration chemical you have and spray on, let it sit for 5 to 10 mins. 3. Unplug your car battery 4. Unscrew them out, and Screw new one in, pop the electrical plug back into their respective sockets and you're done. 5. After putting everything back together when starting your car it will idle roughly for a while feeling like it's gonna die, it is normal and that's because your car's ECU or computer chip w.e. thingy is re-calibrating the oxygen reading and fuel readings. Just drive for a while and eventually the rough idling will go away. It could take more than a couple drives before that ugly idle goes away. If you have a 4 cyclinder Rav4 the o2 sensor is NOT under the driver side, it will be by the passenger side(most videos on youtube will say it is on the driver side, that's for the v6 rav4). Just follow the exhaust pipe up to the cat converter/engine(As you can tell i'm no car Tech and got the job done) and you'll see it near the passenger side. Thank You Denso! I am definitely satisfied with the item. FYI: BIG..... Difference in fuel efficiency after I replaced those two parts. I definitely get to commute more often now before I need to refuel and all of my dash lights are now gone, Check Engine, 4WD, VSC and ABS lights!

Good product, comes with anti seize compound and instructions. My Camry has the 2.5 engine. Also used in this job. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00390BS7C/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en I purchased a bluetooth OBD2 test module a while back. It allows my Android Smart phone to read the codes and clear them on any vehicle with the "Torque" app from the Android Playstore. The free version of Torque works great, I did purchase the full version since it saved me so much over the last year. My check engine light came on and when I performed a code scan it revealed a Heater Control Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2 fault. I pressed web look up and it gave me the most common cause was the Oxygen Sensor #2 before the catalytic converter. I cleared the fault codes and they came right back. I looked for a match to the original oxygen sensor and researched over the net how much the dealer would charge parts and labor to do this job. The part was higher and so was the labor. I purchased the wrench that you can put a 3/8 extension into from either side on Amazon as well to break it free. The job went well. I did need a long breaker bar to break it free as they are in there pretty tight. I actually used a long 1/2 in breaker bar with a 1/2 to 3/8 in adapter. It comes with a small tube of anti seize compound so I didn't have to run to the store to buy that either. I used a small strait screwdriver to release the plastic mount that holds the electrical plug to the bracket. It took me about 30 minutes total to pull the old one out and install the new one. The fault code had to be cleared out with my code reader, but it hasn't come back.

Good

My car is a 2009 Toyota RAV4 with a 2.5L 4-cylinder engine. I believe this Oxygen Sensor is a piece of Original Manufactured equipment (product #234-4622) because it fits perfectly and it looks the same as the one it replaced. The item itself is inexpensive but replacing it by myself was difficult. I had a really hard time unscrewing the original sensor out of the gas pipe due to a lack of space to rotate the ratchet. In addition, the connector was too high to reach with both hands from under the car, where the sensor is located. You would need one hand to jam a flathead screwdriver into the connector to release the hook, and the other hand to pull the wire out of the connector. There was not enough space for two hands to do this from under the car! Luckily I had my brother helped me out. He stood next to the car and reached down with one hand to take a screwdriver to release the wire from the connector, and I pulled the wire from under the car. After that, installing the new sensor was a much easier step. I also want to note: the error code that prompted me to replace this sensor was "Code: PO137, Define: O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2" I also replaced the Bank 1 Sensor 1 at the same time. Bank 1 Sensor 1 is located in the front of the engine and it is called the Air/Fuel Sensor, product # 234-9022. The reason I replaced both sensors was because I learned from a mechanic who told me: when Sensor 2 gives an error message, it is usually caused by the failing of sensor 1. When sensor 1 fails, too much or too little oxygen flow into the engine and such condition creates too much or too little oxygen leaving the engine which in turn causes sensor 2 to show an error to the computer. Therefore, to completely solve the problem, one should replace both sensors at the same time. That was what I did. As soon as I replaced both sensors, the error code went away. Besides, some online forums I visited have indicated that Oxygen sensors and Air/fuel sensors tend to last about 10 years. That's exactly how old my car is when the error code showed up. I learned about this repair routine from others on YouTube and other online forums, so I appreciate those people's videos and inputs. This DIY repair saved me at least $500 compared to having to leave the car at a repair shop or dealership. As such, I took the time to write this review in the hope that I'd paid my money-savings forward to someone who might be facing a similar problem.

Working good

Ordered this for a 2011 RAV4 with 2ARFE engine - throwing a P0136/P0137 code. Identical fit as the old one. Difficult to say if the OE was Denso or not (was stamped Toyota with no easily identifiable info) but I wouldn't be surprised if it was. Removal was 'interesting' - not so much the sensor itself (I feared it would be seized but came off easy with my 22mm O2 crow foot), but more getting to the connector and disengaging it from the plastic intake manifold without breaking anything. The connection is very solid - had to zap it with electronics cleaner to 'clean' it up a bit. Reassembly was easy - but even connecting it back required slight use of pliers as I couldn't get it to click by hand. Old O2 sensor had a failed heater element which I confirmed by not finding any resistance between pins per service manual. New one has a slightly different head design (more holes it seems). Really competitive price for once on Amazon compared to what I could find elsewhere - came out even as if I had ordered it from Rock Auto ...

Tome el número de parte del fabricante denso y es justo la parte y original , problema resuelto,

Worked. Had to torch nut on pipe. Don’t waste time with anti seize sprays. Reset codes before installing. CPU will adjust after instal. Saved hundred of dollars doing myself and takes 30 mins. Watch YouTube videos for your car. Good luck.

Llegó basta rápido a pesar que venía de USA. Después de investigar bastante en foros , y ver la página de Denso, este es la pieza necesaria para eliminar el molesto 'Check Engine' de mi Toyota Avalon '99. No utilicen los sensores genéricos de refaccionarias, no sirven para estos carros son muy sensibles a los sensores, el 234-4622 era idéntico al original que le quite. Cabe recalcar, que mi Toyota es de emisiones Federales (no California) , así que tienen que estar seguros cuál pedir. Me funcionó para B1S1 y B2S1

Fits perfectly for Toyota Camry 2.5L 2010. Good quality.