LaowaVenus Full Frame Camera Prime Lens 25mm f/2.8 2.5-5X Ultra-Macro Nikon F, Black

Hello,Question : J'ai donc acheté cet objo pour mon nikonmais que ce soit sur mon D610 ou mon vieux D3200Quand je l'accroche, mon boitier me dit qu'il n'est pas reconnu .. et donc peux pas faire de photo :(Une idée de comment je dois faire autrement ?Ou dois-je le renvoyer ?Je change donc mon avis d'1 étoile vers 5 étoiles car avec les explications reçues ici ... il fonctionne et j'en suis content :-)

I have had fun exploring the world of macro photography, using a 60mm and 100mm macro lens, as well as extension tubes... but this lens gets you so much closer without needing to combo anything. The downside is the subject in frame is not the only thing closer. You are always going to be around an inch or less from your subject so living creatures are difficult to snap photos of in focus. You can narrow the aperture to make the field of view bigger but then you lose a lot of light and have to keep the shutter open longer to compensate, or increase your ISO... or both. Lots of juggling. I bought the ring light made specifically for this lens on ebay(only place I can find it currently) and it helped tremendously but not sure I'll do much free hand photography with this lens.The two images attached are my first attempts at focus stacking with this particular lens. The body shot of the stinkbug is 45 images stacked and the head is 25 images stacked. It makes since at this level of magnification why the pros are shooting over 100 images, because as you can see I neglected some spots and thus it isn't sharp from front to back. That being said... if you stack it enough, this lens will put out some super sharp images. You can even do it without a focus rail because of how stiff the focus ring is on the lens. It turns smooth but is very stiff so that you can make tiny adjustments. I'll probably still keep using the focus rail I have anyway but it is nice knowing that the focus ring isn't going to slip at all.The lens is also entirely manual but for this level of photography auto-focus wouldn't really be beneficial anyway.

Ich habe zu dem Objektiv nichts Negatives zu berichten, es funktioniert wie beschrieben an FX und DX, die Bilder sind scharf (auch für mich akzeptabel scharf bei Offenblende) und wenn ich sie mit den Ergebnissen vergleiche, die ich bisher mit Balgengerät, Retroadapter und unterschiedlichen WW-Objektiven erzielt habe, eine ganze Klasse besser (bezogen auf Vergrößerung und Bildqualität).Um Enttäuschungen zu vermeiden, sollte sich aber jeder vor dem Kauf über folgende Punkte im Klaren sein:a) Wenn man nicht gerade Briefmarken-Ecken o.ä. ablichtet sondern etwas 3-Dimensionales, dann wird man nicht um Fokus-Stacking herumkommen.b) wer denkt, daß er bei einem Abstand von 40-45mm zwischen der vorderen Linse und dem Motiv mal so eben im Garten Insekten ablichten will: viel Spaß. Gleiches gilt für alle anderen Objekte, wenn auch nur der geringste Wind wehtc) Stativ ist ein Muß und auch die Ausleuchtung muß sorgsam vorbereitet werdend) was man auch nicht unterschätzen darf ist die Objektauswahl, denn bei Faktor 5x Vergrößerung und z.B. einem DX-Sensor (ca. 23,5 mm × 15,6 mm) darf ein Objekt nicht höher als ca. 3,1 mm sein damit es formatfüllend abgebildet wird. Das ist zumindest bei mir der Grund, warum ich dieses Objektiv eher selten benutze, denn geeignete Motive mit passender Bild-Komposition zu finden (sprich: ein Bild, das sich zum an die Wand hängen lohnt) sind gar nicht so einfach zu findenZusammengefaßt würde ich das Objektiv uneingeschränkt jedem Extrem-Makro Enthusiasten empfehlen, alle Anderen sollten sich mehr Gedanken über das Einsatzgebiet und die Motive als über das Objektiv selbst machen.

This lens requires extremely high lighting condition. Especially at max power.

This is my first macro lens and I'm new to the macro scene. I was hesitant to buy at first because of a lack of reviews, but decided to try it out anyways. Build quality is surprisingly sturdy. It's arguably the best built of any other lens I have. Very tight tolerances. Macro at this scale has a learning curve, and this lens is completely manual. This means you adjust aperture manually and need a focus rail for focus stacking on anything. Manual is preferred at this magnification, personally. I didn't know how to use it properly at first, and had to invest in more gear (ie a focus rail/macro slider, very sturdy tripod, third hand clips) to get results I was happy with. Once I figured this thing out, it was able to produce incredible shots. I'm using mine with a full frame DSLR. A crop sensor DSLR would definitely increase magnification. If you're looking for something to wander the wilderness with, this might be a bit hard to work with due to the shallow depth of focus. At this level of magnification it's incredibly thin and you need to get very close to your subject at 1:1 magnification. In the attached photo, I took this in a studio environment with a completely static subject. But if you need EXTREME macro that's on par with a low power microscope, this is your lens. When taking your shots, try to keep your light sources BEHIND the eye of the lens; it catches a nasty glare otherwise. I also recommend using good lighting and a sturdy base for your subject, very subtle movement can still cause blur. You will absolutely need a delayed or remote shutter. All of the aforementioned issues are based on user performance, and not the gear itself. This is some fantastic glass, you just need to use it right.Gear used in this shot:Nikon D850 + this lensManfrotto MT190XPRO4Manfrotto MHXPRO-BHQ2 XPRO Ball HeadCamerePlus MFR-180mm Precision 4-way macro sliderGeneric remote shutterNeewer Metal Bi-Color Dimmable 660 LED (x2)