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๐ช Sharpen smarter, not harderโbe the craftsman everyone envies!
The ATLIN Honing Guide is a precision sharpening jig designed for chisels (1/8โ to 1-7/8โ) and planer blades (1-3/8โ to 3-1/8โ). Featuring adjustable angles with clear 25ยฐ and 30ยฐ guides, a hardened steel roller that wonโt wear flat, and a durable cast aluminum body, it ensures consistent, professional-grade edges. Perfect for woodworkers seeking reliable, long-lasting tool maintenance with easy-to-follow instructions included.
| ASIN | B07C9X3F98 |
| Brand Name | ATLIN |
| Color | Grey |
| Customer Reviews | 4.3 4.3 out of 5 stars (5,708) |
| Grit Type | Coarse/Medium/Fine |
| Item Dimensions L x W x H | 38L x 33W x 104H millimeters |
| Item Type Name | Honing Guide |
| Manufacturer | ATLIN |
| Material Type | Aluminum, other materials |
| UPC | 867955000468 |
C**P
Me gusto mucho la calidad de la herramienta. Buenos acabados.
P**R
Read the instructions carefully. It takes skill and practice to place the chisel or blade correctly. Once you`re dialed in, you will get a perfect sharp edge on your tools. Great value, thank you!
B**D
A good, simple, affordable, eclipse style honing guide. I like that it will work with chisels down to 1/8โ.
J**H
Works great definitly buy for simple sharpening
R**O
Okay, first off I was worried from some negative reviews, but went ahead with this anyway. After using it, I realized there is a big factor in success: reading the simple single sheet of instructions. It clearly says how a mortise chisel (the type with the straight sides - sheesh there is even a diagram example) is secured at a different place on the jig. My Marples and my Stanley chisels are all mortise chisels, and I imagine this is the most common type used (as the directions even say, it is probably a mortise chisel if you don't know). Following the simple instructions, I was able to secure 2 different types of Stanley plane irons and 4 different chisels (size 1/2 to 1"). I had previously sharpened my plane irons free hand on my diamond plates and thought I did okay. When I used the jig - wow did I notice what a horrible job I did freehand! I am surprised anyone would recommend doing this freehand. When you think about it, it is like saying you can do a better job using a table saw without a fence or sled. Here you are doing hundreds or thousands of cuts and want consistency to have a uniform angle and edge. The human body flexes - even if you have locked your wrists the best you can. Power to those superhumans that can achieve a fine edge doing this freehand, but for me and I imagine most people out there, it was much easier to put the blades in a jig. It is a very simple device. You lock in the blade in the appropriate slot, extending it to the length you want for the desired angle (suggestion: use a quality ruler with millimeters if you want to be precise. Make a quick cheap wooden jig for depth of future sharpening or other tools). For my chisels, I found the angle while I had it in the jig and then secured it rather than using the length to determine angle. After that it was just a matter of sharpening away. I didn't have to worry that it would be consistent - just held the pressure at the tip of the blade and made sure I wasn't lifting off the back wheel and went to it. From the brand new Marples chisel I was setting up to the antique Stanley #5 plane iron (circa 1941) this did a brilliant job on diamond plates and wetstones. I followed methodology from some woodworking channels and was able to achieve a mirror edge and cut paper with all blades. I did stropping freehand because I figured I could do little damage to the angle I had created with stones, so I can't say how it works for that but I imagine the same principal - maybe the wheel would sink in the leather a bit. As far as any naysayers about the build quality, I didn't notice any issues. Maybe there was some slight cast slag here and there but nothing that made me think low quality. For less than $20 it did the job and I imagine it will be solid for many sharpening sessions.
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