K750297 Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link for Honda CR-V

Stabilizer bar has grease fittings on both ends to help prolong life of bar link. Fits perfect on vehicle. Took away rattle on front of vehicle. Better than original.

The MOOG Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link is a fantastic upgrade for my vehicle’s suspension. It feels sturdy and well-made, improving driving stability and comfort noticeably. Installation was straightforward, and the price is fair for such quality parts. Definitely a smart choice for anyone looking to maintain or enhance their car’s handling.

this company has been around for a very long time and have always made great parts, these parts were made very well and fit perfectly

Just buy the Moog sway bar link replacement for your CRV! The image is that of the OEM sway bar link that was the sole cause of noise (not the shock absorbers). The OEM sway bar has no hex or square nut to allow easy removal, and its bolt is hollow which makes it weak, prone to rust and dirt, making it nearly impossible to remove. I had to cut the OEM sway bar link nuts and bolt to pieces just to remove it, which took hours. The Moog has solid bolt and square bolt head, so installation and removal is done in a minute - and the noise is gone for good.

Moog are pretty well known to most people when it comes to replacement parts for most cars. The auto parts stores sell for 2x as much and sometimes well over that. But they have overhead and employees so yeah of course it will be higher. If you know exactly what you want you, here or elsewhere, you're not having to pay their overhead for it I think it was about fifteen bucks each (mid 2021). Now onto the sway bar links: They seem thicker and more robust compared to the OEM ones but thicker doesn't necessarily mean better. Grease fitting help to extend the life of these links so keep them greased with quality grease. I took them to a shop and they greased them for me (no charge) before putting them on though. Be careful lifting your car and you're better off taking the wheel off for ease of working on. Also, the originals have Allen (hex)keyway to hold from spinning the threaded part. Make sure you're in fully and make sure you have the right size tools. You don't want to round in off anything here. You will have to raise and lower the car to get the links to line up the holes but take your time and don't force it. The Moog links have a block to hold the threaded piece steady and use 19mm and 17mm and I think a t30 or t40 equivalent Allen wrench. You can test fit without removing the wheel for the OEM link to hold the threaded part still. Overall an easy 2/5 difficulty. I measure the thickness of OEM and Moog for those of you wondering the difference and have added pics for your viewing pleasure.

10-04-2025: Just installed another one on the driver side. Old OEM one look good but removed it because when I go over a bump squeaky noise came from underneath the front. It came with no grease and no caps for the grease inlets. The piece that I installed over a year ago is still working. This one seems to fix the noise but again I have not driven it aggressively. First review: The OEM one is broken at the joint at the top. Pain in the a.. to remove the OEM stabilizer bar link. That is because the OEM doesn't have an opposite nut to hold the spindle bolt from spinning when tight or untight. The hex key slot made for that purpose is useless. This item has an opposing nut so it was an easy task to install. Torque it to 58 ft.lb. They say it is not 100% greased so I docked a star off. Also they shipped me an opened package so another star off. I'm praying that I don't have to replace another one.

My husband states: Well made (it's Moog). No more clunk. Grease before installing and move around to distribute properly insideo the cavity, then grease just a skosh more when installed. Update: Put some pictures on here to help whoever is interested. 1. Once i got the upper link free by wrestling the nut off with some penetrant, i snapped the other end off with vice grips. Wasn't that hard to do. Then used the vice grips and ratchet. Don't have a die grinder or a torch. 2. What helped me get the first link off was by wedging a thin block of wood between the sway bar and the control arm. This helped manipulate the bolt out of the hole. 3. Picture of the ball of the socket part of the OEM link. 4. Comparison picture. I saw a review where someone mentioned there wasn't a nut on the moog link to keep it from spinning when tightening. If you look closely, there's a nut that is part of the threaded bolt to put a wrench on. Much better design than the oem hex head bolt. Hope this helps.

Heavy duty compared to to stock ones off of my 09 honda crv. Thwy also have a grease point for you to grease them. They fixed the occasional clicking sound in my car

excelente calidad funcionó como se esperaba

I installed these on my CRV. The noise and clunking are gone and the front suspension feels tighter and also tracks better. Bravo !!! Moog has always been a quality part. If I ever have to replace these once removal will be so much easier because of the change at the end...for those who don't here own work will know what's up...

de excelente calidad

These are easy to install and easy to remove

I got it for my 2012 Honda CRV and it works very well. Got it installed 2 weeks ago