Rust-Oleum 253499 Automotive Premixed Auto Body Paint, Quart, Gray Primer 32 Fl Oz (Pack of 1)

Good primer

I used this on tile paint on the floor. It is holding up very well. It drys fast and seems to be very durable. I believe it is acetone based and thus VERY caustic to previous paints. If this is going over oil base paint it has to be several days dry as does epoxy based paint. I would definitely test on a test block. I'm not sure I would even attempt using this on latex paint. But it does dry fast and glossy. Have plenty of ventilation.

The paint worked well enough as an adhesive for metal flake, but the problem I found almost immediately is that there is a possibility that this paint contains Toulene or some other component that will melt through plastic very quickly. Having never used this sort of paint before, I promptly ended up with black paint all over my legs and my sidewalk. I used some gasoline to get the paint off my legs and the sidewalk. The paint also mixes very cold in a metal can, almost frost temperature. And the paint gives off a smell that may give you a headache after a while so I'd use it outside definitely.

It has an odd odor for an automotive paint, but seems to cover well. At first the clear (did not use the Rustoleum brand) lifted the paint, but I actually mixed a little of some other base coat (Lesonal) with it and it seems to work well with the U-tech brand clear. The Lesonal paint was about double the price of the Rustoleum brand, so if you're looking for a budget paint, this should fit the bill. Dont know how it will hold up over time, we'll see.

I bought a quart of this product as I was looking for something inexpensive . I got 2 wheel house tubs one side only, a fire wall painted, and a radiator support done on on both sides of a 68 Firebird. I did have to put down a black sealer which helped with coverage. Over all it looks really good. It's not glossy but also not dull and dead. JMust what I wanted.

First let me say I am not a professional when it comes to spray painting. I have a few HLVP Spray Guns and have sprayed lots of paint over the years with great results in my home workshop. I really like Rust-oleum Professional Paints. They are cost effective, spray beautifully when thinned down with Acetone and give a rock hard finish when a little Catalyst / Hardener is mixed in. I was restoring a utility vehicle to use on my property and needed some UV Protection for the Professional Paint. I called Rust-oleum and they recommended this clear coat.. I had only shot clear coat a couple times before with good success.Okay, here we go... This Clear Coat is extremely hard to shoot. It is as thin as water or less. Once you get the HLVP Gun spraying correctly and start shooting you do not have much margin for error. You have to lay on a thick coat in order to get a High Gloss Finish, but this stuff is so thin the chance of getting drips is almost guaranteed. If you lay it on to thin it will dry to a somewhat flat matte finish. So you have to spray it on at exactly the correct speed of movement with the correct flow... To Fast = Matte Finish, To Slow = Drips... And above all... Do not let the spray gun get to low or run out of paint, any change however little in the flow when the gun starts to run out of paint will cause a light coat and a flat matte finish. Getting into crevices and hard to reach spots almost guarantees drips. Although the can states how to lay down the coats, it gave me a matte finish by following the instructions.. When laying thick coats it gave the high gloss finish. Now the can does say " Can be buffed to a High Gloss Finish" SO maybe they expect you to spray it and get a matte Finish and then Buff it out.. But it does not say that in the instructions..And I am going to try and fix this Clear Coat with 3M PERFECT IT 3 Stage Rubbing / Polish Compound. As for the drying times, I don't understand why Rust-oleum never includes the Fully Cured Time. The label on the can says Dries to the touch in 10 Minutes and is fully Dry in one Hour... I called Rustoleum to ask how long I should wait before polishing? They said it takes 7 Days to fully Cure, then you can buff and polish. I am giving this 3 stars.. The clear coat when sprayed heavy to achieve the glossy finish looks beautiful, but the difficulty in getting that finish without a drip was impossible for me... This difficulty in using the product is why I gave it 3 stars.. Someone who is a professional painter may not have this problem. After I get it polished I will update here.

Nice clear coat. Sprays easily with an air gun. Can be thinned. Drys quickly. Gives a nice shine. More expensive than the regular rustoleum but I assume the quality is better. I'll let you know how it holds up.

Absolutely terrible. After shaking it up for 30 minutes in a paint shaker there was still clay at the bottom of the can, i had to agitate it by hand for 10 minutes before most of it dissolved.I used a Devilbiss HVLP with a 1.8 tip, I've been painting for a number of years and I just wanted to have a smooth sealing top primer coat to go with this hood I've been working on. It went on super rough and sandy no matter what setting or pressure i put the gun at, temps and humidity were well within the recommended operating range.I made due however, I figured since it was just primer I could sand it smooth with some 400, oh how wrong I was. The paint sanded away revealing long hairline patches were the paint did not adhere, effectively making the primer coat USELESS. the surface was prepped with marine clean and metal ready then washed with a good solvent so I'm going to say in my very reasonable level of experience that something in the paint failed despite my best efforts.I ended up sanding all this crap off and contacting customer service, who have not even acknowledged me yet.I like rustoleum, I've made some great things happen with their products and i hope they'll make this right, but I will never buy another can of this stuff and you would do well to just stick with the primer spray cans if you need to prep and area for rustoleum top coat.