Electric Fuel Pump 12V Universal Low Pressure 12 Volt Transfer Inline Fuel Pump for Lawn Mower Carburetor Gas Diesel Engine 2.5-4psi HEP-02A

My old lawn tractor quit running the other day. I diagnosed it as a fuel delivery issue (it would run-- barely-- on full choke or with some carb cleaner sprayed into the engine) and figured out that the diaphragm fuel pump that runs off the pressure pulses inside the engine crankcase was not delivering much fuel. This pump is built into the side of the carburetor and the parts for it come in most rebuild kits.The trouble is, I'd already rebuilt the carburetor and fuel pump. I concluded that the pressure pulses going to the pump were a bit weak, either because the engine is getting tired or the crankcase has a leak somewhere or both. Since the engine runs very well and doesn't smoke, I decided a brute force approach was the best course. I'm good at those so I was already on familiar ground.For $10 I got this pump, and for another $12 I got a 4-pack of relays with mounting pigtails. I had some ATC fuse holders, wire, crimp connectors, etc. already. I figure this repair cost me about $25 in parts plus an afternoon of my time.I wired the relay to the hot side of the battery with an inline fuse, then wired the control side to a switched power wire from the starter switch. When I was done, the pump would only run when the key was on. Perfect. I made a mounting plate out of a piece of aluminum I had kicking around, plumbed the fuel line with a new filter and shutoff valve, zip-tied all the wires out of the way, and turned the key on.The pump cycled and filled the float bowl of the carburetor. I twisted the key to the start position and the engine roared to life. I managed to finish mowing my lawn and the tractor worked fine the whole time.This pump is a good low-cost solution for fuel delivery issues on old machines. No idea what the longevity is but for $10 if it lasts a couple of years I'll be thrilled.It's a very good idea (translation: essential) to run the pump with a fused power feed and a relay or some other means of shutting it off. Running without a fuse is an accident waiting to happen if a wire shorts out somewhere so don't skip this step. You could probably run the pump on a switch but a relay with key-on power is almost as simple and there's less danger of forgetting it on and killing your battery (or worse).I'm not sure what the max pressure of this pump is, but keep in mind that the needle valves in some small engine carburetors may not withstand it. If the pump overpowers the needle, it will overflow the float bowl and flood the engine. At that point you'd have to install some sort of bypass or regulator to return excess fuel back to the tank. This didn't happen to me so I didn't investigate.Take note of the dimensions of the pump before ordering. Those mounting legs and the hose barbs stick out a surprisingly long distance. I had trouble finding a place to mount the pump until I found a small area under one of the engine's cylinder heads. This proved to be a good spot because the inlet of the pump will gravity feed, but there were a few other spots I tried where the pump absolutely would not fit.This pump is available from a lot of different sellers on Amazon. I bought the one that had the best combination of low price and good reviews. Fingers crossed, it appears to be relatively trouble-free. I'm cautiously optimistic.

Works good and very good price

I was having problems with my John Deere riding mower D125 twin cylinder 20 hp engine with surging and very poor starting. replaced the vacuum fuel pump and it worked for a couple of months and started the same symptoms. i never liked that design so thought i would give this inline pump a try so i took the fuel pump off and mounted this inline in the same spot just forward of the fuel filter. I thought it should be able to handle the 2.5 to 5 psi and it did no problem now runs and starts great. Poor design easy fix!! Oh i did put a screw in the vacume line to seal it off!

I used this pump to transfer transmission fluid. It's a slow pump at approx 0.375qt per min using 1/4" ID hose. The pump nipples are for 5/16 hose so I had to grind down the ends to accomodate my 1/4" hosing. It was the lowest cost 12v pump I could find and it did the job Aok. Beyond my use I cannot comment on quality or longevity of the pump.

Ordered this on a YouTube recommendation. Upon hooking it up, I discovered a leak in my fuel system. At first I thought it was the hose connections and re did the clamps. Nope, it was fuel coming out of the wiring area of the pump itself.Also, it has very low pressure, which is fine for a carburetor, but its flow rate for using as a transfer pump is extremely slow. Almost nonexistent. It also doesn’t have enough pressure or flow to overcome a transfer fuel system roll over valve.

WORKS GREAT, REPLACED FAILED MECHANCIAL FUEL PUMP.

Good product

I replaced the Vacuum Based Fuel Pump on my lawn tractor/mower with this 12V Fuel Pump - I got tired of the Vaccum Based one flaking out and becoming unreliable (replaced 3 in 3 years). This pump is bigger but the bracket still lined up with the mounting holes from the Vacuum Based Pump, but this pump was tilted using those holes so I made a bracket for it so the pump is level. There were no instructions with the pump but I assume it needs to be level (input to output) for best operation. The pump makes a buzzing sound when power is first applied but it gets the fuel into the carburetor float bowl in seconds. Once the motor is started I can't hear the pump. With an empty float bowl, the buzzing is a bit louder but gets softer once the float closes the bowl fill valve (when it is full). The pressure of the pump (about 4 PSI) is prefect to pump the fuel and does not force the float valve open (which would flood the engine if it did) so it seems to be working very well on my DR Versapro Zero Turn Mower. My engine has a Solenoid on the carburetor that opens when the Ignition is on; this allows fuel into the intake manifold from the carburetor. When the Ignition is off, the Solenoid is off and cuts off fuel into the intake manifold and this shuts down the engine. I tapped off the positive wire on the Solenoid 12V Hot (switched wire) to the red pump, and the pump is grounded using a round terminal lug on the black wire to one of the mounting bolts on the pump (not included with the pump - I was able to re-use the bolts from the Vacuum Based Fuel Pump). I put a 5 AMP fuse between the Solenoid tap and the pump.