BOSS Audio Systems R1100MK Monoblock Car Amplifier and 8 Gauge Wiring Kit - 1100 High Output, High Low Level Inputs, Low Pass Crossover

Components installed: - One Rockford Fosgate R2S-1X10 10-inch shallow loaded enclosure - Kenwood KDC-BT555U receiver/head - Boss R1100M monoblock amp - Sirius/XM SXV-200v1 tuner - Metra single DIN faceplate kit - Metra wiring harness adapter I wanted to use a local business for this installation, but they quoted me $750 to install $250 worth of components. So I decided to order the stuff from Amazon and do it myself. I got a much better head, a better amp, the Sirius/XM tuner (not included in the quote from the local vendor) and the same subwoofer/enclosure for less than $350. It took me parts of three days to do the install, but it was fun, I learned a lot, and I do quality work (even if I do say so myself). The bottom line is, the system sounds awesome. I had already upgraded the stock Infinity speakers in the front and rear doors with a set of Boston Acoustic speakers. I did this a few years ago when the stock speakers got wet or rotted and started buzzing. This gave me a tinny sound that had very little low end. That and the fact that I could not use my iPhone with this system finally prompted me to upgrade. I had never installed an amp before and didn't have the first idea what would be required. Luckily a lot of info is available on the Internet that makes this stuff doable. The local installer had told me that this size subwoofer enclosure would fit behind the smaller driver-side rear seat in my Dakota Quad Cab, but that turned out to be incorrect. The alternative is to spend an additional $200-$300 to purchase a molded enclosure, plus the cost of the actual subwoofer. So I decided to locate the enclosure on the rear floorboard, snugged up against the middle console, facing backwards. I am still in the process of trying to decide how to anchor it there--it's dangerous to have something that heavy not properly anchored down, as it could become the source of severe head trauma in a crash. I am thinking I'll probably use some combination of velcro and home-made brackets. The one thing I have noticed is that, if it is placed directly against the back of the console, the console will not lift up and out of the way in the front seat. This is a problem for me, because that's usually where I place my Glock when I'm transporting it but want to keep it out of view.. But, from a rear-seat occupant perspective, this configuration allows two people to still ride comfortably in the back, though it does extend slightly into each occupant's knee space. It pretty much makes the middle seat unusable though, so if you need that much passenger room, you will need to spring for the molded enclosures that fits under that seat. Luckily I rarely have passengers riding in the back. The hardest thing about the install was running the 8-guage power supply from the battery through the firewall into the pax compartment. Using Internet research, I located the wiring harness grommet on the driver's side, and was able to use a coathanger to get the wire through. I pushed the coathanger through and then electrical-taped the 8-guage power supply wire to the other end of the coathanger. First time it came loose, but second attempt worked like a charm. The wiring harness kit was pretty simple. The order is Kenwood wiring harness-->adapter kit from Amazon-->factory connections in my truck. The wiring is almost idiot-proof as it is pretty much color-to-color. The only discretion involved my truck's OEM amplifier--I needed to connect its control wire and the new amp's control wire to the single P-CONT wire from the new harness. If you understand that all these wires do is turn on the amps when the radio is powered up and turn them off again when the head unit is off, it's a no-brainer to figure out you just need to wire both control wires to this same wire in the harness. To test the connections, I twisted all the wires together and electrical-taped them. Once I confirmed everything was working, I took the harnesses back into my house and soldered them and used rubber heat shrink around the soldered connections. I prefer that to the cheap crimp connectors included in the 1100 amp wiring kit I purchased at Walmart. The one thing that nearly threw me off was the amp's "Protection" light that illuminated after I cleaned everything up and put the trim back on the interior of my truck. Luckily, I was able to search the Amazon user comments and learned that an improperly grounded amp is one of the causes. Sure enough, I removed the piece of trim under which I had connected the 8-guage ground wire to the body of the truck with a screw and saw that I had jarred loose the ground wire when I snapped that piece of trim back in. My advice is, if you get a "Protection" light on this amp, check the ground wire connection before you do anything else. I am amazed at the quality of the sound. The bass is amazing and it's almost like having a new truck. I highly recommend these components.

Long story short, hubby is using this as an amp for a subwoofer in our 5.1 home theater system, works as expected. Our setup: Onkyo TX-SR304 (65W per channel) Center channel: RCA 40-5038 200W Center Channel Speaker Dual 5" Drivers Monopole Linaeum Tweeter Mains: Pioneer S-HF21-LR (100W each) Surrounds: Realistic Minimus-7W 40-2039B Walnut grain (40W each) Sub: BSR DR-SW15x2 passive dual coil (200W) Sub Amp (this item): Boss R1100M Riot Monoblock amp Sub Amp power supply: FSP 300-60BN (+12v @ 11A max) As you can see, our HT system is a piecemeal of older components so an auto amp powering the sub is no stranger to our living room. Once the sub was wired up for 4-ohm dual-L/R bridged to 8-ohm it keeps the volume levels consistent via the LFE pre-out (which needed a single-to-dual RCA adapter to connect to the low-level input on the BOSS amp) it is a welcome addition to our system. Pros: Good sound at lower power, low price (easily 1/3 the cost of typical dedicated sub pre-amp/amplifiers for HT use). Cons: The remote unit does not seem to control the volume level as expected, lots of elbow grease needed to convert this to HT use (not really a con, very fun to be honest :) Lucked out with the FSP PSU, is able to run on +12v load alone without needing 5v or 3.3v pull-up (sometimes needed for older PC switching power supplies) and the +12v rail should be able to handle the power to match the Onkyo output without any problems (and can be replaced w/ a seasonic SS unit quite easily). All the +12v yellow wires were snipped from the molex connectors (and one from the 20-pin ATX, 5x18AWG total for +12v) were bundled to a yellow crimp connector mated to 2x16AWG zip cord for power to the amp, and same for the ground. The cheap sony speakers in the pic were just for testing the BSRs crossover, they are terrible but work :) Once it was all set up we fired up the youtube app on our Visio smart TV and played some random R&B compilation, the first track was Bruno's 24K Magic - WOW what a difference that sub makes, the 15" rocks the entire wall unit when turned up, had to turn it down before the pictures started falling of the shelf. Needless to say, we are extremely satisfied with our purchase.

I purchased this amp with a gift card to power 2 Kicker CompR 10" 2 Ohm dual voice coil woofers in a sealed box running at a total of 2 Ohms. I listen to alot of R&B, techno, and deep heavy bass music in a 2017 Mazda 3. I initially purchased this amp as a very cheap (basically free from a christmas giftcard) beginner amp with the intention to purchase a new amp once this one failed..... WELL, 2 years later and it is still going strong as ever!! It works and provides what it is supposed to do, MORE BASS! ****Nit picks about the amp**** -It is no where near 1100 watts! Alot of reviews show this amp really caps at 200 watts. So, at most 100 Watts per 10" CompR woofer in my set up. It has been great and plenty loud enough for just some extra bass support. -I found I kept driving the gain a little higher trying to get more output but this amp just could not dish it out with out distorting. I only say that to be mindful that that this amp will not be rattling the neighbors windows or really even bothering the other cars next to you. I will be audible outside the vehicle but nothing really aggressively obnoxious. -It is a class A/B amplifier so it does draw more power when turned full set volume , but only enough to make my headlights dip a small amount very quickly. So, If you are wanting just some extra low end support with out spending to much! I would 100% recommend this! I only rate it 4 stars because of the false claim of 1100 watts from BOSS, not really any issue with the seller or product.

Powers my 2 12s amazingly. Do not regret this purchase at all. It’s honestly better than I expected. Easy to set up and easy to use. Arrived very quickly. I’m extremely happy with it

Shipped quickly and works great!!! My son absolutely loves it. He hooked it up as soon as he got it with no issues 🙌🏽

Its under $100 and it works. If it lasts more than 1 year ill never buy another fancy amplifier ever again.

I bought this amp due to its specifications.and price point combination. This amp is nowhere near its specifications! I expect that allot of amplifier companies will lie and overstate their capabilities... but this one was no where even near what it was stated to be. It literally only puts out like 110 watts at best... that doesn't even consider its true limit before distorting. You should expect to get maybe 85 watts distortion free. It is an absolute piece of junk. I used it for several hours before turning mu music up high in order to break it in as well as my new speaker. After listening to it loudly (?) for only a few minutes I could literally smell heated capacitors! Almost like it was ready to blow on me! I came home and immediately contacted Amazon for a return. The amp still works and nothing fried and no blown fuses... but like I said, power is no where even close and after pushing it (;maybe 80%) volume, the smell coming from it was not good! I started looking on-line for similar situations and ran across a review on the amp that actually showed the dyno results of the amps output power that proved that its only putting out around 110 watts and the guy opened up the device to show it had a ton of the cheapest capacitors you could get crammed in there. This is NOT a quality device. I fell for the lies from the manufacturer and assumed it to not be so bad... don't make the mistake I did... just buy something else! You can get an amp from Wal***** for $60 that literally puts out twice as much power and has a 3 year warranty! Run from this thing. Do not buy!

It’s not a TERRIBLE amp by any means. And actually, it has all the potential to be a great amp. The problem is the false power rating. And actually it struggles to make half that power. The system I’m running it on at max power rating should be roughly 500 watts. Rms somewhere around 350-400. It struggles to produce that power which is less then half of its max power rating. Over all the amp looks very nice (in my opinion) all the adjustments are accurate and work great. And under low load, it actually produces constant power and sound. But after that it just starts to quickly drop off. If you’re just looking for an amp to cruise around and listen to your tunes. You’re probably fine. If you’re trying to vibrate all the loose nuts off your car. Forget about it. This amp WOULD work for me, however my car is a convertible, and I’m driving with the top down pretty much most of the time I’m driving it. Do I NEED it to crank up to cancel out the wind noise. This amp just doesn’t do it for me… However, the amp in my daily driver is starting to show its age. And it’s an suv. So I think I’ll end up throwing this amp into it. That’s where I think it will do very well. In a closed environment, with low to medium volume level. To sum it all up, you’re not winning a sound system comp with this amp. But you’ll get to enjoy your musical commute to work at 6am sipping your coffee as you try to wake up.