KW3A Microwave Oven Door Switch 16A 125/250V Door Interloc (2 Normally Open and 1 Normally Close)

These switches are fine to replace NORMALLY CLOSED KW3A switches. HOWEVER, if you're replacing all three door latch switches on a GE over-the-range microwave oven, two of the three switches are NORMALLY OPEN. In my haste, I didn't examine the switches being replaced closely and assumed they were all normally closed. NOPE! So this is a quality product, but to replace all three switches on my GE microwave, I needed one NC and two NO switches. See other options on Amazon. NOTE - connector spacing different between NC and NO switches. That spacing is designed in to the connectors for error prevention.BTW - my symptoms were the oven would trip the 20A breaker on start. For these GE microwaves there's also a 20A on-board fuse which also blew. It's above the control panel behind the stamped galvanized shield, upper right front. There is a good YouTube on the trip-breaker symptom and repair. It's pretty simple. So, repair was $10 instead of $200.UPDATE- I ordered the 2-NO, 4-NC package for backup switches. All switches are marked NC (normal closed), but two are NO (normal open). That's what I ordered but my beef is they are different, but all marked as NC. Marking is a molded schematic so they use the same housing die for the two different types. SO - you have to use an ohm meter to tell them apart. Sorry, but just plain poor! Functionally they are fine; it's just identifying which is which requires a test with an ohm meter.UPDATE - error on my part. For my 2nd order, the offer is 4 NO and 2 NC. Otherwise the above update correct.UPDATE - rereading the advertised content, it says 4 NO and 2 NC but what I got is 2 NO and 4 NC. So what you get is backwards and molded ID is meaningless.UPDATE - I was wrong and confused regarding molded schematic on switch and position of electrical terminal. The advertising is correct, switches work well and should not have been returned.

Once I figured out which switch went where when the door was shut or open, they worked fine! Don’t remove the old switches before marking them and deciding if they are ‘always open’ or ‘always closed. When the door is closed, one or more ale always open and one or more are always closed. The switches change when the door is open, then the closed will be open and the open will be closed. Find the switch that doesn’t make a clicking noise when you press the button on it( check YouTube) , you may have only one bad switch.Replace the correct switch and you should be good to go! They are medium easy to replace & fit like the old ones They were installed 90 plus days ago and are still working finel. Built as good as the original and much cheaper than a new microwave!😏

Didn’t really solve the problem. Seem like a kind of loose fit in my Kenmore elite convection/microwave.If I close the door in a very specific manner all seems to work. But if I just shut the door manually, more often than not the breaker trips (original problem)I might try a different brand later.

We have a GE microwave over range (one unit) and our microwave would light up, make regular noise, but the turn table wouldn’t spin or heat. I have never fixed a microwave in my life but was willing to spend $9 to try. We followed a YouTube video, and this part on Amazon was 1/10 the cost of the GE website. This switch worked for the switch behind the door press. Will update the review if it stops working.

Kept microwave out of landfill and saved us money from having to purchase a new microwave.

We were going to replace our microwave when my brother said we just buy a new door switch for the microwave.My brother installed it with no problems while I was at work and now we have two spares.Great product!

This was the perfect fit and replacement for my microwave. Saved over a hundred to replace my unit.

Easy installation. Took maybe 10 minutes