Power Wheel Adapter with Fuse&Switch, Secure Battery Adapter for 20V MAX Lithium Battery,with 12 Gauge Wire, Good Power Convertor for DIY Ride On Truck, Robotics, RC Toys and Work Lights

Non-factory batteries can be problematic. I test each new battery using this and a constant current dummy load. I can return the batteries if they are noncompliant. Many are, and won't work properly in higher current tools.

bought this for a kids rid on car because the stock battery was junk really easy install and seems to be working well and the car is much faster now

Works and is easy to instal. Has a switch so I left original battery and spliced this to the cables. I unplug original battery and flip on switch. When drill battery runs low I flip off and plug back in original (original battery is slower).

This thing is an absolute game changer for power wheels type car toys! It made our Power Wheels cars twice as fast with more torque and my kids love it more than when it was new!Here are a couple important things we learned:- It burns through batteries fast. Typically, lithium ion batteries are 2Ah capacity. We bought 6Ah capacity batteries and they last 2-3 times longer. It’s definitely worth upgrading to the higher capacity so you don’t have to keep changing the batteries.- When the batteries start to get low, switch to a fresh one so you don’t completely deplete the ion battery. As others have stated, this could ruin the battery. I thought I killed one, but it was just hot and blinking red when I tried to charge it. I let it cool down and it charged just fine.- The fuse part of this adapter broke right away. It won’t work unless you change the fuse and this is likely to keep happening. As others have mentioned, it’s not really necessary to have the fuse, so I just cut it off and re-wired it to the existing wires. We’ve had no problems with it since.Full disclosure, I was about to throw away our Power Wheels car because the battery was completely shot. I’m so glad I switched to this so my kids could have hours of fun creating memories!

Really handy kit.Edit: (everything you need, depending on your setup. See options below.)The adapter has mounting holes, that make attaching it to the power wheel easy. I just drove screws into the plastic on the car (in a location a kid could not touch the sharp end). The inline fuse and switch simplify wiring. I just had to position the adapter in a location where I could mount the switch. I drilled a hole below the seat, ran the wires and snapped the switch in.I installed on a 6V car, so I also installed a motor speed controller. The switch is really nice because I can turn it off so the controller does not drain the battery when not in use.One thing to note is that there is no low voltage shut off to protect the lithium ion battery from draining too low. I tested an off-brand battery by draining it down until it would not run in a B&D tool. Put it in the power wheel and it would keep running. So it is possible to damage batteries with this adapter, unless you install other circuits. But that's the way pretty much all of these adapters are. Just have to know what you are doing or keep an eye on the battery voltage.Edit:For a 6V car, a motor speed controller is needed, otherwise the motor will run way, way too fast (dangerously fast, do not try) and probably burn up quickly.Similar, but not as extreme with 12V. Some people run 12V motors on 20V to get about 50% more speed, but it can wear things out faster. Motors and gearboxes are cheap though here on Amazon.For 12V cars with 2 motors (one on each back wheel), I modify the wiring to put both motors in series instead of parallel so that it drives a normal speed. The only slight downside is that reverse is the same speed as forward. The reverse switch would normally put the motors in series to run half speed (12V battery). Since I've forced them to always be series (for 20V battery), reverse slow and forward slow mode (if the car has) are all the same speed. Not a big deal if you have lots of open space where a kid can safely drive.Attached is a simple sketch (not to scale) of how the forward/reverse switch changes between series and parallel. The car also reverses polarity (not shown). For modifying 12V cars, I cut the wires at the green dashed line and connect them together to force always in series. With this setup in a 12V car, all you need to make it move is a battery adapter like this one... and crimp connectors, solder, or wire nuts etc. for connecting the wires, of course. Things you normally have on hand if you tinker with things on a regular basis. If not, you may need to pick up some of those as well.

made a 5 gallon bucket sprayer this comes with switch fuse wires complete unit!

Installed and ran great until the battery ran out. No prob kids, dad has another battery. They run that one empty too and we call it a day. Later when i go to charge the batteries, flashing red light. Indicating it’s fried. Tried the other and same thing, flashing red light. Tried to charge it the next day, again flashing red. TERRIBLE. DO NOT BUY.

Saw the entire rechargable battery holder off and install/rewire whatever with this adapter. Might need a touch of J-B weld and soldering of the power wires. I just happen to have a bunch of Black and Decker batteries. $90 for a 20 volt rechargable battery is nuts!