YESWELDER Stainless Steel Flux Cored MIG Wire, E308LFC-O .030-Diameter, 2-Pound, Strong ABS Plastic Spool Welding Wire

I'm old enough to think welding stainless required "heli-arc" (today's MIG), but googling found stainless flux-wire like this exists. Worried my basic 120 VAC 100 A Harbor Freight flux-wire welder (no gas) would struggle, since youtubes said stainless requires high heat and a 240 VAC welder. I switched "Max" power and max feed rate (recommended). Project was fixing cracked welds on the 18 awg (50 mil) lower 31" wide oven pan in my Jade Dynasty gas range, between pan and lower stiffener plates. The first welds (top in photo) turned out great (for me), but the middle ones not-great since lingered too long. I had clamped the two plates tight together with cross-beams, but found they had bowed apart from heat, partly from preheating each spot with a propane torch (worried of not enough heat). Can't weld 2 parts unless touching tight, so it even melted thru the stiffener plate edge at places and a bit into the top plate side, which I ground down (2nd photo), plus a crack which might have already been there. My goal was to get rid of bangs as the oven warmed and cooled, which I thought perhaps from the cracked welds. Seemed I was following someone since the detached welds were much uglier than the thin purty welds at the edges (likely factory, perhaps TIG). My oops, but the stainless wire worked great. Youtubers said it popped more than normal steel wire, but I just got comforting sizzling pops. Only got two splatter beads, close-in, matching youtubers who said that despite the loud popping, they got only a few splatter beads which wire-brushed off easy. To avoid them, I had covered the surrounding plate with damp rags.

If your running regular inner shield SWAP your polarity.. Negative to your grounding, and Positive to your torch (like you doing regular Mig with shielding gas) Crank the heat up... ALOT from the manufactures spec. It's going to sound horrible.. I mean god awful!! annnd you'll get a weld that isn't sema quality.. but it works.. good for repairs.. especially when working outdoors.. I really appreciate the self chipping feature.. (As the weld cools.. The slag will start popping off.. as far as 4-5ft) It might startle you if a piece hit's you in you eyeball.. Whatever.. safety squints my be needed? What else.. Didn't like vertical (but dooable) really didn't like upside down! oh, and if you don't clean your stainless good.. your old friend porosity will be showing up.. I could only find 2 okish video's on you tube, and yeswelder does have some info on the product.. It defiantly has it's place.. and it's cheap!

I just received the Flux-Core wire. I haven't used much of it yet. I was a little skeptical that flux-core stainless would do well. I was surprised to find that I can weld stainless steel with it and it look liked solid welds. Who knew? I won't have to take my stainless to a heliarc welder anymore.

CAUTION: when a weld cools, the slag will chip off the weld and fly in the air. ALWAYS wear eye protection around the welded area (such as goggles), to prevent slag chips from flying in you eye! There is NO WARNING about this. Nonetheless, it works well, with caveats. I used a Lincoln Weldpak 100 120v welder, wired to electrode poisitive, .035" stainless flux wire, and was able to get plenty of good welds on 16 ga. stainless exhaust pipe. For most welds, I set the heat on "C" and speed at aound 2.6-2.7 (there is a "sweet spot" where it worked the best). For but-joints with a little space between pipes, using "B" and a slower speed worked better, with no edge burn-through. Technique is critical, as you have to go slow and steady, watching the molten pool as you go. Roping of welds is easy to do if the wire speed is too high. Burn-through was not an issue for most joints (for pipe edge-welds, B power was a little better). Stickout was around 1/2" to 3/4" max. Also, ONLY weld in horizontal positions when possible; vertical or upside down welding will cause the pool to run and drip. Splatter is minimal, but the pool can drip if it runs off (not good of course). Weld penetration can be proper with this welder, but it does take getting used to in getting proper penetration and depth, and agian, take your time. I normally have used mild steel flux core, and that is moe foregiving and easier to weld. This Yeswelder wire is less foregiving in that it is easier to mess up if you get in a hurry. But, I really like the shinyness of the welds, once the slag self-chips away. With patience and practice, you can get decent (and excellent) welds with this wire on a a Lincoln 120v Weldpack 100 welder on 16 ga. and thinner pipe!

Esta bien Bueno el alambre a buen precio

Muy bien

Ok

Great Stainless Steel Flux Cored wire. I had my doubts when I purchased this, and it took several tries and trial and error to get the amp/volts right. This wire needs a lot more amps/volts than mild steel flux core. several of the welds in my photos were at 210amp (max for my 240v machine). Once you figure it out, this wire welds with very little splatter. Its much cleaner than mild steel flux core. I would exclusively use this for my projects if it was not expensive. Stainless quality seems to be inline with 304ss, one of the photos was after i soaked the part in peroxide/vinegar/salt over night to test its corrosion resistance.