(154) GM Med Pewter LVP Leather, Vinyl & Hard Plastic Refinisher Spray Paint - 12 oz.

Colorbond LVP worked wonders on my C5 Corvette's original oak and tan interior.**Make sure you follow and complete ALL the preparation instructions before applying the coating!!Proper prep prevents poor performance!The product itself is very easy to apply and responds best to light, multiple coats. Since the drying time between coats is only ten minutes, it's easy to practice a little patience to get a long lasting professional result. I had a few small areas that needed to be resprayed, due to my error in taping over areas that actually needed coloring. I though I was going to ruin the nice, level finish I'd laid down! But no, the product "re-activates" itself, similar to using shellac for wood furniture. The wet spray color from the can blends and levels itself out with the coating that's already been applied to create one strong finish! No one can tell where the touch ups were made! It dries in about ten to fifteen minutes in moderate temps (65 to 70 degrees was my working temperature).I actually intended to only recolor the seats, but the results were so good, I decided to go ahead and tackle the carpeting, making it black instead of tan, and adding the cinnamon seat color to the door panels and lower dash areas. *This review is only for the cinnamon color LVP spray, I'm just including the info about the carpet project for reference.This was my first attempt at such an ambitious project, and I remember thinking as I was removing all the carpeting, "what have I got myself into??" Luckily, the product is easy to use, and Corvette interiors are surprisingly easy to take apart! The product was applied in late March of this year, 2020 -- I had nothing else to do during the quarantine!It is now mid August, and the interior has been subjected to open-top summer heat in excess of 100 degrees. The color has not transferred to any clothing, it has not bled or run, but it has instead given me a unique custom look at a fraction of the cost to reupholster.*I am including pictures of the process for your inspection and approval. I used the BMW X5 Luez Cinnamon Brown, as that color was, to my eye, the closest I could get to the Kalahari interior color that was offered in the 2014 Lime Rock Green Corvettes. Overall, about five cans for the seats, lower door panels, and lower dash/knee bolster areas. I applied four to five light coats to achieve the darker cinnamon color over the light oak/tan. The carpet project was more labor and product intensive, as I was changing a very light color with a lot of dimensional and directional challenges to black. ANY tiny spot that was missed is noticeable if you look real close. Luckily, no one but me is ever that close to my Corvette floor carpets!I had a completely successful experience with this product; it delivers an amazing result when the preparation is followed.

Car colors are almost never correct. I have to admit that after replacing a seat part from the wrecking yard this color code was an EXACT match to my stock color. Not one person has been able to pick out the replacement part from the rest.

I didn't realize that leaving a can of spray containing DEET on the seat would plasticize the existing coating on my Toyota Avalon leather car seat... well, that was a one time, never to repeat mistake. I wiped off what I could and waited until the edges of the area were again adhered and were no longer sticky. I was left with essentially a 1" x 7" area where the seat coating was gone and left with uncoated leather.Then the search for a solution. I found this product on Amazon, but wasn't sure whether this product would work well. Some reviews said the color wasn't quite a match, while others approved. I decided to try, found the interior code from the doorjamb from the line labeled C / TR, which was TRim code LE17 (which corresponds to light grey). And bought this product.I tested it on a piece of cardboard, and wasn't sure about the color match, even after multiple sprays. I hestitantly decided to try nonetheless... I figured if it were close, that would be better than the existing small section of untreated leather. BTW, the final result was an excellent color match - I don't know what the proper match test is, but it is NOT using a scrap of cardboard. If doing it again, I probably would have used a piece of plastic instead that would not be so absorbent. I think the absorbency had some effect on the color presentation.I used 220 grit to smooth the edges, then 400 grit, then used a magic eraser to clean the seat. Masked off, since any overspray would be essentially stuck to whatever it found. A couple of minutes of can shaking, four very light sprays later with 10 minutes between drying of coats, and I am (shockingly) very happy with the result - the color is spot on, and the look and feel is the same. If I look really carefully, I can see a very minor small ridge where my prep was not sufficient. This may be easily fixable by additional slight sanding and additional coats. But just looking at the seat, it is really very good, does not appear (without REALLY close inspection) to have been subject to a repair, and is much better than I would have expected. The coating has the same feel, good finish (the repair has slightly more shine, but after I let it cure for a few weeks I know that can be toned down using a very fine grit (400+) sandpaper - much better than working from too flat a finish), the coating is flexible and adheres well, and probably most importantly, the color is really an excellent match.I noticed that there is very slight tackiness remaining in the seams a day after the work, which tells me that for seams 10 minutes between coats is probably not quite enough time, and that anyone sitting on this seat will be sitting on a towel for the first week or so until the volatiles are completely gone...Speaking of volatiles... there was not much odor at all, but as with any spray, do this outside and let the car air out. There was little overspray but I would say masking is mandatory, especially if like me you have contrasting colors in the interior. I don't want light grey overspray anywhere, especially on a different color.Overall, I would say this repair project has been a 9 out of 10, with 50% of that missing single point being either due to insufficient prep or fixable with additional sanding/spraying work, and not due to a deficiency in the product. And the best advice I can give is that the spray containing DEET should stay in the trunk.

This is pretty good stuff. The 324 was a very good (not perfect) match for a 2002 Mustang GT Premium with dark charcoal interior. While still not perfect, it was a much closer match than the SEM equivalent. People would not know the difference between a painted and a factory panel without you telling them.Application: It sprays well, dries quick and is very durable compared to other interior paints that I have used, including SEM. The tip does tend to clog a bit but is not bad. I used a bit of lacquer thinner to clean off the tip and it continued to spray as if it was a fresh can. As for durability, I used it on a manual shift knob among other things. After almost 3 weeks, the shift knob has not cracked, peeled, or flaked. You be the judge.Prep: I spent the better part of a day prepping the surfaces of the interior items. I didn't use an expensive prep spray. Dish soap, water, lacquer thinner, rubbing alcohol, and scuff pads (scotchbrite) are all you will need. I also used an adhesion promoter just prior to spraying the colorbond.I achieved good results. I will likely buy this brand again if I need to paint interior pieces in the future.