GE WB18T10338 Genuine OEM Spark Ignition Switch and Harness for GE Gas Ranges

Perfect fit for my Kenmore cooktop. I did have to route the wires slightly different than the original, but the harness still works perfectly.

One of the switches on the old igniter harness shorted and burned out. So, when I opened it up, I took note of the Roper part number and found it on Amazon by zooming in on the Amazon picture and seeing it was a match. When it arrived, it was indeed a genuine GE part and (as you'll see in my pics) it's a relatively new revised harness! The old one was revision 1 dated August 9th, 2004. The new one was labeled revision 2 dated July 30th, 2018. It was an easy swap. I only wish Amazon (and other retailers) would list the actual Roper part number (191D4235P001) in the listing not solely the GE part number (WB18T10338). I'm not aware of what the revision was to this switch harness, but I'm glad it's a more recent one at the very least. Works as a charm and saved, possibly, a couple of hundred dollars in a visit and repair. The most time-consuming part of the job was removing the burners on the cooktop which uses torx screws and you have to remove it carefully so you don't damage the ceramic spark plugs. Took about 40-50 minutes total.

No more clicking! We had an appliance repair person install. It did the trick and my igniters work again!

This part does not fit my GE Profile 5 burner gas stove!! I had to wait for my neighbor to help put the new part in and he was just here today and installed it! The line was too short and the ignition switches supposed to turn to the left, but they all but one turn to the right, so essentially they don't work for crap. I am so frustrated and disappointed. When I ordered this part, I even put my model # in the search box to make sure that it was the correct part!! My stove model # is JGP963SEF1SS. DON'T ORDER THIS PART IF YOU HAVE ONE OF THESE GE PROFILE STOVE!!

I have an older 4-burner GE stovetop (JGP933SEC2SS, 4 burner knobs tacked vertically along one side) and needed to replace the spark ignition harness. After trying several suppliers, it was clear that the part (WB18T10339 replacing WB18T10219) is not to be found. I decided to try this WB18T10338 5-burner harness to see if I could make it work, and I was able to, after some trial and error. Here's what I found out:(1) The switches on the harness fit the burner knob shafts perfectly, and the two electrical connectors were a perfect fit, too. There was just one extra switch (only 4 burners), that could easily be tucked away. (2) The original "off" position on all 4 of my knobs is at 9 o'clock, and "Lite" is at 7 o'clock. (3) The first three switches on this new harness (counting from the connectors) "Lite" at about 11 o'clock, and the last two "Lite" at about 5 o'clock. (5) I was able to mount 2 of the first 3 switches "upside down", making all 4 switches Lite at 5 o'clock. This wasn't quite good as new (Lite at 7 o'clock), but Lite at 5'oclock works.

Worked great easy to plug in !

My cook top now ignites properly with the first turn. I use to have erratic ignition or none at all from a couple of burners. This solved my problem.

Reference: RANGE SPARK IGNITION SWITCH & HARNESS - WB18T10338This part did not work for my JGP963SEJ1SS, even though all my appliance websites show this to be the correct part. In addition, there are other reviews on the internet stating the same problem.Problem #1The Spark Ignition Switches do not look like the original ones. Even so, I was able to get them to snap on the existing burner knobs. They are now attached in a different way. Unfortunately I could not find any instructions for how these new switches are fastened onto my old 2001 Stovetop turn knobs. See Pictures.Problem #2One of the Spark Ignition Switches would not work on this stove because it needs to spark in the reverse turning direction. On the original Harness, four of the spark switches are the same and one is different. Fortunately the odd spark switch on the original harness was good, so I removed this odd switch and replaced one of the switches on the new harness. See Pictures.Problem #3The Black & White wire lengths between some of the Spark Ignition Switches are too short. I was finally able to get four of the switches installed without modification, but I had to change the connection order. Such as: Switch #5 became Switch #4, SW#4 became SW#3, SW#3 became SW#2, SW#2 became SW#1, and SW#1 became SW#5. Basically had to rotate the harness counter-clockwise by one switch position. Fortunately, when I replaced the incorrect switch in "Problem #2, I was able to splice in a longer wire so it would properly reach. See Pictures.