🔧 Elevate Your Adventure with Rugged Reliability!
The Rugged Ridge Jack Mounting Bracket (11586.01) is engineered for 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK models, providing a robust solution for mounting off-road jacks. Its design allows for seamless integration with factory hinges and compatibility with both factory and aftermarket bumpers, making it an essential accessory for any off-road enthusiast.
R**Y
It may be the best 2 dr option but it's got issues
The 48" hi-Lift hangs over the soft top roof by 3.5" (with the top clamp down or off). I may cut my 48" jack down to 44". It has tons of leverage against the gate bolts if it snags a good sized limb. Having the extra weight on the gate isn't ideal, but at least it's over the hinges. The manual says only to put 50lbs on the back including the spares weight. The rubicon tire is 75lbs (guess they are not great at math) so really adding any weight isn't great.The base of my cast steel doesn't slide under a lip it was made to slide under. It still will work. I'm going to try to pry it up a 1/16" to make it work better. Maybe it would fit with the cheaper black model base better.NEEDS BOLTS AND ANOTHER SPACEROn the 2012+ there is an extra three 1/2" spacers included to clear the larger hard top window. It's on the last page of the instructions included. It hasn't been added to the online PDF instructions yet. Take a look at that last page before installing. They forgot to add 2 bolts and a spacer to properly take care of the issue. At very least it is missing one 8mm x 70mm metric hex cap bolt. It should say 8.8 or 10.9 on the end. 2 of those bolts is better with a 3/8" x 1" nylon spacer. I found the hardware at menards. Home Depot doesn't carry it.The finish is a wrinkle powdercoat. It looks alright, but will likely hold dirt.The instructions pictures are easier made out off the web. They are on the RR website.After installed it is pretty stout.If you have a 4dr just stick your 48" jack under the rear seat. It's a better option. There are also some good roll bar mounts.INSTALL NOTES AND TIPSI had to remove my rubicon tire before installing. I tried with it on, but the top left bolt was an issue.TRIMTo remove the gate trim pull/push toward the handle side. Then pull back on that side. Then after that angled retainer pops out just give a good tug straight out to get the other side. Label the bottom and top on the inside trim. The top is slightly deeper. It will be very noticeable if they are swapped (1/8" gap on the top. Bottom will look nice). The instructions template was not printed to scale in the directions. I printed out another true to size template off the RR site. There was an 1/8" difference. It turns out the supplied template was a better fit for me. Line it up with the bolts before drilling. I drilled the hole with a 3/4" wood bit (1/2' will not work for sure). That will give you some wiggle room. You can also use a hole saw. It will get covered by the plate so no reason to cut it too close. There are a couple places were duck taping the washers to the mounting plates can come in handy if using the factory trim.. It will show if you look directly down at it, but will not be noticeable. If you extend it off the edge maybe you could pull it out after the install.BOLTSThe bolt sizes are mostly 13mm and a couple 15mm at the end. You will want touch-up paint after removing the factory bolts. You can take both the bottom off at the same time with the gate closed. Same thing with the top, just don't take all the bolts out at once. Leave 2 in. If your installing with the factory trim you'll need to tape the washers before installing the trim. With no tire carrier you will install the big mount also with the right side bolt.On step 2 It's really confusing they say if you have a RR tire carrier do this. Well here is what your going to end up doing with just the factory set-up. Your going to install all the washers and spacers on the bottom right. On the bottom left you will also add the main mount before bolting it on. 2012's that are using the white spacers can bolt both sides with the included bolts and skip adding the main mount part. A better method IMO is to use a longer 70mm bolt and also put a store bought 3/8" spacer (between the main mount and the mounting plate) in on that step.2012+ hardtop owners will add a spacer to the top right bolt. If you use the supplied bolt you will be lucky to get 2 threads screwed in. It really needs a 70mm length bolt.Hope that helps someone. The install took way longer than I expected. Mostly hunting down the bolts. Overall I don't love it on the back. I like it there just a bit better than adding it to the hood because of the jacks weight.
E**E
Amazing mount
This mount is bombproof. It is very solid and looks great. I didn't have any trouble installing it, and I installed it first without the plastic covers, and then reinstalled it with the covers. It is very strong, alot stronger than you would think. I would almost not hesitate to stand on this mount, at least one foot. I really like how it locks the jack, and the rubber pads keeps it from vibrating too much. One thing I did do is line the jack stand platform (where the base of the jack sits) with a shop towel, although I am changing to a thin rubber mat. This keeps everything from scratching and lowers vibrations.I really like the way that this mount looks on my Jeep, especially with the hinge covers installed. It feels very solid with the jack in place, and the jack fits perfectly. The only gripe I have is that you have to totally remove both knobs, the bottom washer, and plate to remove the jack from the mount. This isn't a huge deal but it makes them prone to getting lost.Other reviewers are right about the instructions, they are not very clear. You can find some tutorials online though, which are great. Personally I just followed the instructions as they are not horrible and it is pretty much self explanatory.Biggest thing is make sure to measure the gap when drilling your plastic hinge cover, as some claim the template provided is not accurate. In my case, it was, but I still did it by hand. It's easy if you have one half (top or bottom) installed, you can place the cover underneath the uninstalled half and use a center punch through the bolt holes to mark where to center your drill bit. Use a 1/2" drill bit, but wiggle it around a bit. You can use a larger (9/16") bit, but I do like how tightly the spacers fit into the hinge covers using a 1/2". It makes it look nice and feel more "watertight" even though that doesn't matter at all. Having them tight also makes it alot easier to fit everything together when installing all of the pieces (I think some of the bolts need like 6 pieces to line up for the installation). I actually used a little tiny strip of duct tape to tape some of the washers to the inside of the spacer which made my life alot easier. I also tried taping the washer to the end of a firm wire rod and "fishing" it into place. Both methods were pretty good actually, and with the "fishing" method I didn't have to leave the tape on the washer.I don't particularly like adding this much weight to the tailgate of my Jeep, especially with a bike mount on my spare tire. So when I get the money to replace my bumpers I'm going to move my high-lift onto a bumper with a rear tire carrier built in. That will push the weight off the frame and onto the chassis.
A**R
Excellent
value for money.
A**C
Ditch the instructions, look online.
It's a decent mount but you're going to need a degree in Jerry rigging engineering to get this on as shown. If you're willing to ditch your plastic hinge covers this installation should take about 15 minutes or so. I have a 48 inch HI-Lift Jack mounted which stick up past my hard top about 6 inches.Additionally my HI-Lift Jack does not seat well in the mount and I needed large pliers to get the locking pinch point closed... hopefully I never have to use it like a review I read on Amazon stated.
V**R
Insane instructions but solid product
As reviews from other sites will tell you the instructions that come with this seem calculated to drive you mad. They have mixed up two sets of instructions (with and without another Rugged Ridge product), the have omitted steps (like putting the hinge covers back on). Add to this the fact that the threaded backing plate in the tailgate is not fixed and wants to drop out of alignment at every opportunity. The exploded diagram gives you the best sense of how it’s meant to go together and I am still giving it four stars because once it is on, it feels rock solid and looks like it belongs there. But getting to that point should be a lot easier.
A**S
heavier duty than expected!
I liked the fact that it was heavy duty material and quality fasteners.Also a nice fit although I had to drill into the Jeep's body to install rather than taking off the factory bumper .
J**E
crappy instructions
good product once you figure out how to install
T**S
Terrible instructions, poor tolerances
The instructions are just so, so bad. You basically need to figure out your own way to do it.The tolerances seem quite poor. The mounting holes on the actual mount don't line up with the brackets, and my Hi Lift HL485 doesnt fit. You cant close the clamp (whose holes dont line up either by the way) as it isnt long enough. It MAY fit if the top mount bolt wasn't there, but it would still be close.
H**Y
Doesn't fit jk
Bolt holes didn't line up with my jk tailgate hinges. I conceded and drilled new mounting holes in the bracket. Now I have a shinny new hilift mount, it'll be rusted out inside of a year.
Trustpilot
1 month ago
1 week ago