EDELRID Mega Jul Belay Device

Great device. Sturdy and easy to use.The only bad thing it is very easy to lock. So if your rope is messy wait for getting stacked some times.

Pros:-literally does everything - belay, rappel, single rope, double rope, auto-block, guide mode, ascender, descender, you name it.-Very safe if you stay within a certain rope size range-Cheap as hell for something that does this much!-damn near weightlessCons:-I've had some difficulties belaying on a 10.3mm rope. The rope will turn sideways in the device and I have to finagle it around to get it release again. Even the sport version has some trouble with larger ropes (maybe also due to how dirty my rope is). No problems at all on like-new 9.8mm though.-Gets really hot if you feed rope too quickly through it, like when you rappel. To be expected, but the ATC doesn't get as hot.-Rappel with this device is actually quite difficult to do smoothly. This is counter-balanced by how much safer it is since it's auto-blocking even on rappel, unless you switch it to the ATC side.-Guide mode is pretty complicated to get into.Overall, this is a quintessential part of my rack. #1 usage is to make sure I'm on an auto-blocker with a belayer that I haven't partnered with before. Unlike the gri-gri (which I love), you can't "hold down the brake", letting your partner fall to their death. The force of the rope will overpower your thumb easily on this device, and you'll be caught quickly and safely.

As an avid 5.12/5.13 climber, I have used the majority of belay devices on the market and this is easily in my top three favorites! I have used it daily in the gym and have taken it on 8 hour multi-pitch routes and it has worked unbelievably. It is very easy to use and the added safety of the assisted braking makes belaying much easier, although good belay technique should always be used. I have never personally had rope slip though this device unintentionally, although anything can happen.At first, lowering can be a little bit difficult, but once learned, it is smooth and controlled. Also the proper belay technique is slightly different from an ATC or other belay device and needs to be learned before use! You might also end up explaining that you are using the device correctly to people who have not seen or used on before!The only downside to the MegaJul is that the steel gets a bit hot on long or fast rappels or when lowering someone. Also there is a little more wear on the carabiner that you use from the device locking down on it.These pictures are after a year of use and the device still looks brand new!

Seams to work with 11.5mm static and 12.7mm dynamic may work better with smaller dia. 12.7mm is pretty much max.

"It's like a GriGri only a fraction of the price""It autobelays/autoblocks so you can briefly remove your brake hand""It can be used to ascend/capture progress in self-rescue systems""You can stop mid rappel"I've heard all these half-truth, potentially dangerous claims made by people (in person and online) about the Mega Jul. In reality, it is not a fool proof replacement to proper belaying/rappelling/rescue technique.The features of this device depend significantly on the type and condition of the rope being used. In my experience, it has functioned better with newer dynamic ropes with diameters around 9-10 mm. On fat stiff ropes and thin slick ropes, I've personally experienced the device slip while in "locked" mode. It was never uncontrolled or dangerous, but I also never rely on the device for safety...and never will...and neither should you.The moral of the story is: practice good technique. Treat this like any other belay device. It has some useful features that, when they work, make this a versatile piece of gear, worth the investment. But do not rely on any one device to keep you safe. Always hold the brake line regardless of device...ALWAYS. And always back yourself up.And hey, stay safe out there!

I saw a friend with one of these at our climbing gym. He showed me how it worked and I immediately purchased one. Basically it is fool-proof. If someone is climbing, they fall and you don't break, it will auto-break for you (balance, weight, position and friction). I was skeptical because of the price until I saw my friend use it in action. I had been considering purchasing a Gri-Gri so my wife could learn how to belay me, but the price was high enough where it always got pushed to the back of my wish-list. Not anymore! I've used this now in the gym and lead-climbing in the Needles of SD. This is an AWESOME belay device. You can use it like a "normal" belay device, or with thumb in the molded plastic, either way you can be sure your climber is safe...

I'm 5'1 and 125 pounds, meaning that on average I'm about 30lbs lighter than the men I climb with. Before last night I was using a regular ATC and lowering and catching took a lot of effort to hold them and not to let them down too fast while not burning my hands off.I tried the Mega Jul last night and I cannot tell you how easy it is to use. Giving slack for a lead climber was super smooth which never happened with my other ATC. This device has an auto lock by clamping down on the rope and carabiner, so the rope won't slip. To bring the climber down, just pull up on the green thumb look and your climber will descend at the speed of your thumbs choosing.It is lighter and less sticky than a grigri.You will have to practice a bit, but all in all it is a great device.

If you are considering this after using a Mammut Smart, knowing the no longer make the double alpine version, or even the single rope Jul, think again.The thumb loop is sharp cheap plastic, unpleasant and painful to lower or unlock the device.The assisted locking is far more harsh than the Smart or Jul, so is less nice for lead belaying, it needs to be unlocked much more where a Smart can feed rope smoothely without.I wanted this for trad double rope belaying and for abseiling. Abseiling, the harshness of the device means you should not use it in assisted mode as you will constantly bounce on the rope, so its no better than a plain tube. Bouncing is very bad if your rope is over an edge.I own a GriGri, Smart, this and an ATC. The Smart is by far the nicest and used for all my single rope belaying. For double rope I have gone back to ATC. This MegaJul will be sold on at my local wall if I can find somone who doesnt mond these flaws.

Gutes Teil und sehr leicht

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