American Lawn Mower Company SK-1 Reel Lawn Mower Sharpening Kit

The lapping compound was great, but the crank didn't fit my Husqvarna mower. We reversed the wheels, using a technique found on You Tube, so that the cylinder ran backwards with the lapping compound on the blades. A bit fiddly, but worked like a charm!

I believe that this kit will work really well for those with newer movers that have not seen too much use. I decided to give it a try on my old mower, that is at least 50 years old and has never been sharpened. The blades were a wreck. And of course I had no illusion about hand cranking it to get a good result. So I didn't. I attached the appropriate sized six point socket to a powerful corded drill and away I went. It took a good half hour of reapplying grit and readjusting the mower blade cutting bar. In the end, though, it produced a good result--not factory perfect, but so that it cuts now far better than before.

Nice product

I bought an old time hand push mower about 3 years ago. Though I have definitely found it to be inferior to a power mower in its ability to pass over many a tall blade of grass or weed, its superiority in its ease of use and dependability has sold me on them for life. I would never use a power mower again. (Not with my size lawn anyway). The rotary blades on the hand mower do not sharpen, nor do they cut the same way as the single blade design of a power mower. While power mowers can be easily sharpened at an angle with just a file if necessary, the rotary blades of the hand mower are sharpened flat across the face of the blade. Something very difficult to do by hand even if you had the mower completely disassembled. This very simple three piece system consists of a brush, a crank handle, and a small container of grinding compound. The instructions that come with the kit are pretty simple without a lot of detail, but describe it well enough for you to get the job done. Personally, I found the hardest part of the whole job at the very beginning. Removing the small "C" clamp that holds the wheel on. Though the instructions simply stated that one should pry off the C ring by merely "sticking a regular slotted screw driver into the opening" of it, for me there was nothing at all "merely" about it. No amount of prying, twisting, pushing or swearing allowed me to get a grip on the C clamp with just a screwdriver, or even two of them. All I ended up doing for 15 minutes was chase it around the axle. I finally got it off by concluding that I would sacrifice it by ruining it with needle nose pliers, and then putting on a new one. (As it turned out, I easily reshaped the original clamp and reinstalled it). After removing the clamp the wheel slips right off and you have to remove the gear wheel that assures the forward action of the blades when it motion. It is not attached in any way and just lifts off. But one word of warning here. Neither the directions or any other reviewer at the time of this writing mentions that the gear wheel directs its forward motion by the wheel slipping over a little "key" or steel sliver that slides into a slot on the gear shaft. The key is loose after removal of the gear wheel and can easily fall out and be lost while moving the mower around during the sharpening process. Make sure you either keep an eye on it in the shaft, or remove it to a safe place. The actual sharpening process is quite easy, just time consuming. You spread the compound onto the blades with the little brush supplied and then turn the mower back wards with the crank provided. You will get tired, but you can rest and restart. Give it a good ten minutes. The more you crank the better the sharpening job. Oh and the crank does not slip over the entire shaft, it is snug and has to be wiggled on. You may want to tap it with a light hammer or screwdriver so you don't have to keep stopping and pushing it back on during the spinning process. When you're done, the reassembly is very easy, (don't forget the little key if you removed it), and after cleaning up the excess compound, your mower will cut like its a brand new model. It really did make quite a difference for me and I highly recommend this simple kit that will perform the job easily. Push mower blades stay sharp a lot longer than power blades so a sharpening job every other season, or even every three should be enough. Under that schedule, this kit should last you through many years of your mowers use. Highly recommended....

Works well

My reel mower needed to be sharpened. I had noticed the grass was cutting unevenly. There would be stretches where it was not cut and figured I needed the blades sharpened. The kit comes with a set of instructions, a brush, handle to crank the reel, and a small tub of sharpening compound. People have complained about the poor quality of the brush. It is a non-issue for me. Brush is of a lower quality but keep in mind what you are applying (sharpening compound). The instructions were well laid out and the process was straight forward. After sharpening the blades, I took it for a quick test and my mover was back to like new again. Smooth cuts! Definitely recommend this if you find your reel mower is not cutting as well as it used to.