SSR-10,25,40A Solid State Relay Heat Sink, 5PCS Aluminum Heatsink PID Temperature Controller Heat Sink with Solid State Relay Cover for Solid State Relay and SSR Radiator Module

I see fairly poor reviews for the inexpensive high power SSRs sold on Amazon, and I've wondered if they are really bad, or if they are not being heat-sinked properly. I have bought a few, and have never had any problems, but my sample size is too small to be representative. These get HOT under load, you have to heat sink them properly (I recommend a decent quality thermal paste as well).And thus, this product.So, I put this on a 40A SSR that carries around an 8-9A load. Before I attached it, I tried the SSR without a heatsink to see if I really needed one. The answer is an emphatic *YES*. The SSR gets too hot - which causes premature failure.After I added this heatsink (using a complete, but very thin coat of quality thermal paste), the SSR stays cool enough to easily handle. It's too early to tell if it will last a long time, but in any event, this heatsink is doing its job well in my application. I would note that the SSR typically lives in an enclosure, however, the heatsink protrudes. There is no active cooling, but airflow is not overly restricted. I do like the SSR cover - I wish there were *5* covers like there are heatsinks, but alas there is only one. The description does note that, so this isn't a complaint, just a wish.I dinged a star because these are kind of pricey for what they are. They make mounting the SSR a bit more complicated - that is partly because it's a big heatsink - both a plus and a minus, and airflow needs to be considered. Could it be better? I'll know if I see a better one! Till then, save your SSRs, heatsink them! This choice works for me.

I ordered 6 units and tested each one with a 300 watt light bulb. They all came on by about 2 volts DC. Some turned on at 1.6 V and off at 1.5 VDC. Without a heat sink and with 300 W load they started to get a little warm to the touch.

With triacs it is always best to double the apm rating so a 30 amp service should have a 60 amp SSR. With Heat sinks use a lot of silicon and work out to a thin coating, pressing with a circular motion. wiping up the excess at the edges. dont sand off the ANODIZED coating as this is for insulation reasons. this is not a powder coating it is anodized. I have had a 60 amp in service for 3 years on a heat sink to turn on and off my hotwater heater with a ttl control. works perfect.BTW I also put a current sensor on it to see when it finally gets to temp and shuts off so i only make enough for the weekend.also FYI these are not a disconnect they are at service voltage when off and not connected to a load. Bewary of this issue

These will work fine for moderate thermal loads. I would guess about 1°C/W. They slide on to DIN rail ok, but there’s nothing to clamp them down, so they will rattle or slide on the rail. When mounting the SSR, I would suggest a light sanding first for a clean flat surface, then thermal compound or gasket of course.

Really nice quality part. The machining is very clean, the powerdercoat is thorough, and the quality of this heatsink looks very clean and professional. Size and holes line up perfectly for the FOTEK SSR-40 DA (40 amp solid state relay).For general purpose use, just scew this to the relay, mount it, and go. Though, for high heat applications, I would recommend sanding down the top of the heatsink with 400&800 gritt sandpaper to remove the powdercoat. Then, use a dab of thermal transfer paste between the heatsink and the relay. Note: if you do this, the heatsink interface should be polished as smooth as possible.

DE 6 piezas solo me sirvieron 2, las demás estaban dañadas, No lo recomiendo

On the pictures you see made in Taiwan but when the product arrived I found that it's made on China and fails a lot

The specs state 40amps. I had two overheat, under a load of 22amps, and well heatsinked. After replacing with like kind, I dissasembled one. The triac used was a BTA24-800. 24 amps, not the 40 amps as stated on the item.

Don’t know yet

they did not have both electrical safety badges, weren't made in Taiwan ( marked Chi9naand when we tested one (on a heatsink) it heated up very quickly with a 16A heater load (Resistive). when it began to smell we stopped the test and investigated. The case and PCB looked to be properly designed and would have been able to handle 40 amps and had proper isolation provisions between the AC and DC parts of the circuit, THE Triac however was marked as a 24 amp BYA24 Part with a 1000v withstand with ST Micro logo,,,,,,, ST do not make this series of Triacs wih more than 800 volt rating. Upon further investigation the Tiac leads were been sideways to fit the lead footprint of a forty amp TrIac the board was designed for.which causes sress tha all leaded devices power forbid. |That alone would mean these items would not meet the standards pictured items had or the one on the supplier items. The "smell" was due to the use of low temperature rated RTV in the assembly inplace of the required High temperature that would be required by the electrical standards for such devises.No one should use even properly built items like these at full power and we derate them by up to half load in all applications as well as protect them with transient suppression devices.So In real applications the devices we received would have been a hazard potentially catching fire or shorting the live lines to the mounting frame....... Do not let "Amazon Choice" be your sole guide on these. ( Pl;ease note we tested at half there usage guidence indicated ( which in itself is 8A higher than the Triac rating!!!!!!!)Bob

It's using unbranded bta23 triac inside, wont work on 40A loads, goes straight back to sellers !

Advertised as USA & Canada safety rated and made in Taiwan. Shipped with only CE rating (no good in USA or Canada) and was manufactured in China. All absolutely erroneous. Just looks the same.