Polymaker PLA Filament, Luminous Pink 3D Printing PLA Filament 1.75mm 1kg - PolyLite 3D Printer PLA Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03mm, Compatible with Most 3D Printer, Luminous Pink

First, this Polymaker Polylight rainbow glow filament is a lot of fun to use. In my first pic, you can see the filament glowing bright as it feeds from the spool, through the Bowden tube, to the object being printed!The after-glow does require exposure to a more intense light source. In this case, the after-glow comes from exposure to the goose-neck 60-LED work lamp I use to illuminate my printer bed via a custom-printed mount. You can buy the lamp on Amazon - just search for “FAJ Sewing Machine Light.”In my second pic, you can see the non-glowing “daylight” colors produced by this filament, compared to its partial glow after only one second of exposure to a high-output flashlight, and then the spectacular full glow from only three seconds exposure to the same flashlight and in complete darkness.Some reviewers complain that there is no “glow in the dark” with the Polylight glow or luminous filaments. This is not true. The stuff does glow. It is embedded with fine particles of strontium aluminate. You just need to charge it with a higher output flashlight to get the dramatic glow intensities. I used a NiteCore TM (Tiny Monster) 28 flashlight at 6,000 lumen output for the 2nd set of photos. Only very brief exposures of 1-3 seconds to the TM28 beam delivered intense after-glows. You can buy a NiteCore TM28 on Amazon also!By the way, in case you’re wondering the difference between the Polymaker Polylight “glow” and “luminous” filaments — they both do glow in the dark. The “glow” filament has no daylight coloration added. While the “luminous” filament has a daylight color that roughly matches the glow color.In my 2nd photo, one can see that the glow colors do match the non-glow pigmentation of the rainbow filament — though the yellow, orange and green colors tend to be seen as green when glowing brightly, and the magenta / pink, purple and blue colors tend to be seen as blue when glowing brightly.Note that your eyes are going to perceive the green-hued glow colors as the brightest in the dark, since human eyes are most sensitive to detecting light in the green color band (~530 nm wavelength).What I like aesthetically on this rainbow glow filament is how there are brief but gradual transitions between the colors, so green becomes “blue-green” before becoming blue, for example.From my use, I measured that there is a color change about once every 8.5 meters on the rainbow glow filament, with 1.5 meters of this as part of an overlapping 3 meter zone of transition hues between any two adjacent colors. So, you can do the math to figure the color transition rates for your print jobs. Sections with more print area and solid fill are going to consume more filament over fewer layers and will therefore deliver a faster rate of change in the colors.The glow pigment (strontium aluminate) in this filament is a ceramic powder, which is highly abrasive. This filament is therefore coarse to the feel right off the spool, and will eat up brass or copper nozzles long before you use up the entire spool. In fact, steel nozzles that are not hardened will wear out sooner with this and any other glow filament.Also, due to the inherent abrasiveness, I recommend going a little slower when manually installing and removing this filament into / from your extruder. Don’t yank the filament or do atomic pulls if you can help it — the stuff isn’t so brittle that it will snap when handled abruptly, but it’s sandpaper consistency can tear up and wear your extruder gears and Bowden tube if you cause a lot of friction contact between this filament and those parts.That said, the production quality is very high on this filament. The uniformity of the filament is excellent and it glides right through my Bowden tube like spit on glass. Also, the winding of this filament on the spool was very even and orderly, much more so than with the Polymaker Pro filaments which are my go-to staple for structural grade PLA.So far, I have never experienced filament breakage with ANY Polymaker filament.I outfitted my Ender 3 v2 Neo with a Diamondback diamond-tip nozzle, and this Polymaker Polylight rainbow glow filament works very well with it — with tweaks to the nozzle temps.With the Diamondback 0.4mm nozzle, I gained nearly perfect prints with this filament at a surprisingly low nozzle temp of only 200 deg C with the standard 60 deg C on my printer bed. Any higher on the nozzle temps, such as with the 205 - 220 deg C temps I experimented with brought a massive cob-web of stringing.At 200 deg C, my prints shown in the 2nd set collage came off the printer as clean as they are shown with zero post-processing needed. The hex mesh pattern creates lots of retractions and has a lot of overhangs (that push past the 45-degree limits) and bridges. Thus, my temperature settings found a true “sweet spot” for printing this filament on my Ender 3 V2 with Diamondback nozzle. Yes, you can buy the Diamondback nozzles on Amazon!With over 20 hours of printing from this one spool of Polymaker Polylight rainbow glow filament, I have had zero jams or nozzle clogs.I only experienced one failed “spaghetti nest” print, and that was caused by my experimenting with “how low can you go” on the nozzle temps and rolled it all the way down to 190 deg C. At 190 deg C and printing without a raft, the tall part got knocked over during a nozzle collision causing the print failure. This is not a fault of the filament.Otherwise, adhesion to my PEI print plate at 60 deg C has been flawless printing at 200 deg C nozzle temps and higher.The virgin NatureWorks resin that Polymaker uses for this Polylight glow filament is very high quality — probably the best that can be bought. It is very vitreous and objects printed in it look like frosted, sintered glass. The printed results to me looked a lot like the colorful, sintered, art glass found on high-end pieces by Lalique.Note that the Polymaker Polylight glow and luminous filaments are PLA and not “tough PLA” or “PLA+” — so you can’t pound on it as hard as you can with the Polymaker Pro, which is extremely tough compared. Like all PLA, this Polymaker Polylight is extremely rigid but concurrently more brittle.The strontium aluminate pigment added also makes this filament more dense, which gives the printed works slightly more heft — like glass.In conclusion, I like this filament a lot for printing aesthetic and art pieces, and look forward to buying more when I use up this spool.

I recently tried a glow-in-the-dark filament, and I have to say, it’s the best I’ve encountered! This 1.75mm filament not only glows brightly but also sticks to the print bed exceptionally well compared to other brands I’ve used.The glow is vibrant and lasts a long time, making my printed projects really stand out in the dark. I was pleasantly surprised at how consistent the glow was throughout each print. Unlike some other filaments that required excessive adjustments or special settings, this one adhered perfectly from the first layer, which is a huge time-saver.I also appreciated the smooth extrusion; it flows seamlessly through the nozzle without clogging, ensuring clean, precise prints. Whether I was working on intricate designs or larger models, the results were impressive every time. If you're looking for a reliable glow-in-the-dark filament that offers excellent adhesion and brilliant luminescence, I highly recommend giving this one a try!

This filament is BETTER than described in my opinion! Beautiful colors both glowing from uv or not! Filament prints very well in the bambulab p1s! Will be ordering more!

This is pretty nice and standard printing like pla. The glow in the dark works but it pretty much only glows one color. It's still pretty cool though

I got the purple to pink to translucent temperature color changing filament and this stuff is the best quality printing I've seen so far on my Bambu Labs P1P. It leaves basically a smooth surface, no layer ridging, and I haven't seen any defects so far with suggested filament settings. I've only tried a generic no name brand, Bambu Labs brand, and Polymaker filament, and the Polymaker is by far the best and I don't think I really need to look for anything better. Before this filament, I thought it was just settings that was giving me low quality prints with the no name brand, now I know the filament quality makes a huge difference.The temperature color changing of this filament is fantastic. Even the lightest touch will cause the color to change, which makes it perfect for projects that will be handled a lot. To test this filament, I used it with the Bambu Labs Scraper print and it works great.

This is not the quality you would expect from polymaker. This filiment prints for about 30 seconds, then messes up. I tried different temps and it poops fine and then once it starts to print it messes up. Bambo A1 was struggling to extrude and kept saying extruder jammed. or filament feed issue. I have spent the better part of 4 hours trying to get thisto print and it just will not.DO NOT WASTE YOU MONEY ON THIS

This is my first glow filament, so it is my only baseline, but it works quite well. I printed a figure for my nightstand and it visibly glows all night in a dark room. The print also came out very clean. I printed at 220C.That being said, I believe this filament is abrasive and I would not print it without a hardened nozzle. The figure also seems brittle, so I would not use this filament for any parts that need to be strong.

I have had multiple jams with this. It seems to clog and jam early on in the print or if I have any retraction turned on. I am using it with a direct drive extruder and all metal hot end (Micron EME). It also needs fresh hairspray on the build plate to stick well. Once the first 3-4 layers are down then it works well.The glow is great and the kids love it.