0EM 279827 Dryer Drive Motor with Pulley (Upgraded Blower Shaft Length) by puxyblue - Compatible with MayTag Kitchenaid Kenmore Whirlpool Dryer Motor Replaces AP3094245, EAP334304, PS334304,W10194250

This motor works great and got my dryer running smoothly again. I fixed it myself, and it was a pretty straightforward job as long as you know your parts and match them correctly. The upgraded blower shaft length fit perfectly, and the install went smoothly. Runs quietly and efficiently—definitely worth it for a DIY repair.

Very good fit. Fixed the problem when starting the dryer.

Worked perfect

I just installed this motor a few days ago. Excellent replacement. My dryer is actually more quiet than before. Tip for purchase: Pay attention to your dryer model and motor model. Dont just buy it because it looks right.

Got the motor on March 30th...return window closed on April 29th, motor went out on May 5th...only lasted a month.

Reasonable price. Installed with no problem. A tip for anyone going order a new dryer motor to make sure the blower wheel will come off the motor shaft . They will seize and make it impossible to remove sometimes. The blower is a left hand thread

This fit our Kenmore 70 Series gas dryer, model no. 110. 72722100. The shaft that connects to the blower fan *is* longer than that of the original but it ended up not being a problem. Can’t speak for durability just yet but we will see.

I have a Whirlpool LE7680XSW1 dryer built in 1984. It came with a 695075 motor, for which this model is today's replacement (695075 no longer made). Unfortunately, the newer motors have a seemingly standard harness with all the wires which plug in/disconnect together. Mine had separate wires with spade connectors which were all 1/4" wide. The new motors like this have a mix of 1/4" and 1/8" spade connectors that interface with the newer harness, but if you don't have this, you need to adjust the wiring on the dryer. The real OEM brand, which is FSP (division of Whirlpool) comes with some 1/8" wide female spade connectors which can be crimped onto 2 of the wires of older machines like mine, allowing the motor to be wired to the old machine. This motor does NOT come with it, and these insulated connectors in this width seem to be difficult to locate separately as most are slightly smaller or much wider. I ended up buying a wiring harness used from a popular auction site which we all have heard of, from which I used only the motor harness piece. I ended up using heat shrink butt connectors to connect the old wires to the harness so I could interface to this motor like a more modern dryer model. Between the crimp tool, butt connectors and harness, I spent about $40 more beyond the price of this motor. It would have been cheaper/faster to just order the FSP motor in the first place, as I could have wired it easily using its included insulated spade connectors. The motor has a longer shaft than the original (2.25" vs ~1.65" on original) but everything still fit into my model. If you are reading this and decide to purchase parts for your dryer and leave a review, it would be very helpful to others if you put the make/model number of your appliance in the review so others with the same model can learn from your experience. Overall, if I was doing this over again, I'd have gone elsewhere and gotten the FSP brand for this due to the wiring compatibility being somewhat poor on my model of dryer, even though it was easy to map the wires by number (on both old and new motors). The motor fit into the motor mount, but the spot where the wiring harness plugs into the motor rubbed on the motor mount bracket on my dryer, which caused more noise/vibration than the original motor. I opened the dryer back up and removed the mount bracket a little so the motor mount only touches the motor on the rubber mounting rings on the motor. This issue is minor and likely would have occurred with the FSP brand motor as well. I took some pictures of this. Note that this will probably only be an issue if your dryer has the old wiring style (just spade connectors on the ends of the wires and a wiring block connected to the motor) and not the more modern harness for the motor. In one of the images, you can see the wiring harness now connected. The other is a little closer. The metal bracket holding the motor no longer rubs against the black housing around the wiring connector after I removed about 1/16 inch of material using a grinder. Much much quieter now.