J-B Weld J B Clear 5 Minute Epoxy, Clear, Syringe, 2 Pack, 50112 2

I recently used this product to set steel rods into newel posts for an interior railing. I needed something that would set very strong given the safety implications of my project, and JB Weld fit the bill perfectly. I have some more rods to set, so finding a cheaper price on Amazon vs. the big box hardware stores was great. Working time / setting time: I saw several reviews say this takes 10-15 minutes or more. I had the exact opposite experience. Mine became tacky and gummy so quickly (3-4 minutes) that I had to get my items glued with hustle. I worked in small batches using little paper cups after losing a relatively large first batch to the quick drying. It's dry where I live, so maybe humidity comes into play and could explain the large variance between reviewers. I'm not sure when my items were fully set, as I didn't want to test them too early and damage the initial bond. Adhesion / strength: I glued steel into wood and steel into MDF, and both bonds are holding extremely strong. I had to remove one of the rods to fix some paint and it was quite difficult to get out - exactly what I was looking for. I initially used some classic gray JB Weld, which I think is potentially a bit stronger (just my objective feel, not sure if that's true), but I didn't want any gray to leak or show on my railing. The clear is holding plenty strong for my purposes. Don't expect JB Weld to replace real welding, however. It's still surface adhesion, so it has its limits. There are some great videos online showing you how strong this stuff really is when tested for torque, shear weight, etc. Clarity: Dries very clear, no issues whatsoever. The gray was making a mess on the white newels for my railing, but the clear is nearly invisible. I can see tiny spots where I spilled if I look closely, and they're easy to chip off with a razor.

Some things about this epoxy glue make it distinct from other quick set epoxies I've used... But it does work pretty well especially for some use cases. First, the cap. It has a GREAT cap if you can remember which orientation to put it back on as, because if you get it backwards, then you'll glue the cap to the syringe! So, twist the cap open, then BEFORE pulling it off, with a sharpie mark a line on the cap that continues on to the syringe. Then you'll never have to guess the cap orientation - just line up your lines. Second, the set texture. My end result is firm but a little rubbery. This seems like potentially a good thing for ceramic especially. Third, the set time. Maybe I have an odd batch? But I was expecting it to set in 5 minutes, and it didn't. This was a problem because I didn't have a clue how long to hold my piece. Needs 10 to 15 minutes. It just starts getting tacky at 10 to 12 minutes for me after thorough mixing. What I learned is... using a piece of cardboard and a toothpick... * Squirt some out on the cardboard. * Mix it for 3 minutes. You have to really mix it very well. * Apply to both sides of your piece thinly, but don't press them together * Keep mixing the leftover. When it starts to get tacky.... however long that is (it might be 10 to 12 mins) * Press the sides together and hold gently for an additional 5 minutes. * Sing a song while you do this to help not get bored out of your mind while you hold! Fourth - adjustment! Because it takes a long time to cure, it's still soft and pliable 20 minutes after it sets. THIS IS A HUGE ADVANTAGE if you think about it, because if you have several pieces to glue together, e.g. a handle for a mug, you can work on the remaining pieces and there's some flexibility if you didn't get the joint exactly right for the glued joints to bend a bit while setting the next segment. Lastly - cure time - it *really* needs 48 hours. Not 24. Don't get tempted to use too soon! I haven't yet tested for diswasherability or mircro-waveableness. I'd not use it for a food-contact bowl on the inside. Who knows what it's made of (except of course good ol' J.B.)

I've used JB Weld's ClearWeld for years, and it's never failed me. I've yet to find anything I could not fix with it. I've repaired and glued together: ceramics, plastics, wood panels, metal brackets, rubber, cloth and fibrous materials. I've also attached many of those items to one another with ClearWeld. Is there any material ClearWeld won't stick together? Maybe, but I have yet to have that happen. The most recent item I repaired were my eyeglasses. The left-side hinge had broken and there was no way to replace it — short of buying another set of frames. To fix them, I applied a thin layer of ClearWeld and held the frame hinge and its temple (the arm) together for a couple of minutes. After it setup, I let it sit for a few hours. When I came back, I was surprised to see that I could flex the eyeglasses without the frames separating at the hinge point. A $6 tube of ClearWeld, saved me the cost of a new set of frames. What Issues Does It Have? 1. If you used too much, it takes a longer to cure. 2. It does smell a bit. However, the smell doesn't bother me. 3. A few customers have had the syringes leak during shipping. I've never had that happen. 4. A few times, I've had more of the two-part epoxy come out of one side of the syringe than the other. It usually happens with a new syringe because one side binds up a bit as you're pushing on the handle. If that happens to you, just scrape away the excess to keep the mix ratio at 1 to 1. For me, ClearWeld has always dried hard. It's not rubbery when mixed properly. HINTS: A 45 degree, counter-clockwise turn and pull on the gray knob opens the syringe. CAUTION: Sometimes, the epoxy will be under some pressure, due to heat, (if it's summer time) and some of it might ooze out of the syringe — so be prepared to catch the excess with a paper towel. If you're going to be doing a big job and using lots of ClearWeld, do it outside. As the smell can be irritating to some people. Plus, the smell sticks around a lot longer. Do not over apply ClearWeld — use just enough to get the job done. ClearWeld bonds and works best when it's applied in a thin layer. That's what I did when I recently attached four hard rubber feet to the casing of a 2000 watt inverter. The aluminum housing had been anodized, and I wasn't sure if ClearWeld would bond the feet to the smooth surface. But it did! (I thought about drilling holes into the casing to mount the feet but didn't want to risk damaging the inverter.) After applying ClearWeld, I put some lead weights on the feet and let them dry overnight. The next day, I tried but was unable to pull any of them off with my fingers. ClearWeld is my go-to cure for fixing anything that's broken, has come apart or that I want to stick together. I highly recommend it.

Bought an older bike to restore recently and it had some areas where the carbon fiber epoxy had chipped off. After a light sanding to minimize the edges, it took almost no time at all to apply the epoxy to those areas. Granted it is noticeable -- I didn't spend any time trying to blend it in properly -- but the important thing is that the carbon fiber is protected and the bike is performing wonderfully. It's an easy process, you just need to push out an equal amount from each side, mix it up for a minute, and then apply within about 5 minutes before it hardens too much. I found a cheap set of wood brushes and used one of those to apply. Obviously once the epoxy dries the brush is worthless, so I tried to find something that wasn't more plastic to throw away. The packaging includes a little shallow bowl to mix the epoxy in, which was big enough for my needs. Total dry time says 24 hours I think, and I had it out and riding after about that long so the timing is pretty accurate.

Great price and works great.