4K@60Hz HDMI Audio Extractor & Converter, SPDIF Optical 7.1/5.1CH, Stereo 3.5mm, Scaler, CEC, Dolby Digital Audio De-embed, HDCP 2.2/2.3 Bypass, PS5 & Xbox Compatible

TLDR: It works great! No video or audio delays. EDID settings are a huge bonus.Full Story: I have been trying to solve a problem that was incredibly frustrating. I have an older Yamaha receiver. It supports HDMI 2.0, 4k60 HDR. But, when I hooked up my new 4k HDR TV to it to get content from my Roku Ultra - I had constant audio and video drop-outs and the occasional (daily) HDCP error. No worries, I followed the advice from everyone and replaced my HDMI cables with certified HDMI 2.1 cables and made sure they were shorter than 3 meters. Problem did not go away. However, when I connected the Roku Ultra directly to the TV and then used ARC to provide audio to the stereo, all of the drop-outs and HDCP errors went away. I was able to use the controls on the TV to adjust the audio delay and the audio and video are in sync.But, I miss being able to see the display from the receiver on-screen. Knowing the actual volume setting (i.e. -25db) is an important quality-of-life thing and other settings that only appear on screen were missed (like the different DSP settings I had set up for different content). I was willing to deal with that, but the biggest issue I have now is that the receiver takes almost 2 seconds to start to play DD audio when it comes through Arc. This is not a big deal when you just start a show and watch it through to the end, but it is a pain if you pause something and then rewind a few seconds because you want to hear what someone said. This was what made me look for another solution.At first, I wanted to try a splitter. I figured I could send the full 4k signal to the TV and send a separate (ideally 1080p) signal to the receiver. This would not solve the problem of the on-screen content, but it would solve the audio delay issues. I tried 3 splitters, but none of them worked 100% of the time. Too often the Roku ultra box would decide that the TV was only 1080p. Other splitters said they could handle HDR, but they could not because the colors were totally messed up.Then, I thought I would try this guy and send the audio signal through the optical port into the receiver and send the video to the TV. It would not solve the on-screen issue, but it should solve the audio processing delay issue.Now we get to the meat of the review: This guy solved my entire problem. I decided to try to connect him up between the Roku and the Yamaha, and then go from the Yamaha to the TV. So, the HDMI chain goes: ROKU -> Extractor -> Yamaha -> TV. Since the Roku box doesn't "see" the Yamaha, and the Yamaha doesn't "see" the Roku (they both just see the "unknown device" in between them) whatever interaction was causing the drop-outs and HDCP errors have stopped. I'm back to my original setup and have the on-screen display from the receiver as well as the audio being in sync with no delays in starting up. This guy is powered by the USB port on my Yamaha, so it is only on when necessary.As a major bonus, I was able to use the EDID DIP switches to tell the Roku Ultra that my TV only supported HDR10. I don't like the Dolby Vision processing options on my TV and so now the Roku doesn't try to switch to it every time the HDMI is reset, it just sticks to HDR10.After trying 3 different splitters (all returned), upgrading my cables (unnecessarily) and suffering with ARC processing delays, I am finally back to enjoying everything without any drawbacks or compromises. Couldn't be happier.

Needed it to interface a new TV with NO Optical output to drive an old Sonos Playbar (that only has an Optical input).The Hookup: Tv's HDMI-ARC out to extractors HDMI-Arc In,TV's USB port to Extractors power port,Extractors Optical output to Playbars optical Input.For this to work properly I used the Tv's USB port to power the Extractor: this is necessary to trigger the playbar to automatically switch to tv sound.The TV's USB port powers down 15 seconds after tv is powered off, the Playbar sees the TV is now off and disconnected, if you then switch to a music service (or do nothing at all) the Playbar will automatically switch back to TV once the TV is powered back up (the way Sonos intended). If you were to leave the extractor plugged into constant (unswitched) power, you would need to switch the Playbar to TV manually thru the App.Long story short, it worked as I had hoped, client is thrilled she does'nt have to spend another 1000.00 on a new sonos ARC or try and find a new TV with an optical output ( slowly getting harder to find as optical is being phased out as HDMI-ARC is becoming the new standard).

I tried to play 4K movies from a Roku ultra 4K routed thru a Marantz SR6007 4K AVR to a Sony HD4K using HDMI cables. Everything is 4K, it should be just plug and play right? No. HPCP protocol stands in the way. Since ROKU and Sony have HPCD 2.2 protocol, the Marantz despite an excellent piece of gear is HPCD1.4 compatible, The Roku refused to co-operative. Only audio went through.Therefore, I need a HPCD 2.2 to 1.4 adapter between the Roku and the Marantz.I spent hours trying 2 brands (SIIG, Gofanco) with no success. I have no clue as of why they did not work. My guesses are other protocol conflicts that these two automatic devices can't switch into.Thanks to the information on this thread and some hidden clue that it should work.Indeed, it does. Don't be afraid of the EDID switches. It will help you find the right protocol. Just be patient and read the manual before you try it.Suggest steps:1. Set your Roku Manually to 1080 display without using the converter. (read Roku manual)2. Disconnect all HDMI cables. Disconnect all power to all devices(not just turning them off)3. Set the EDID switch of the converter to 110004. Reconnect all cables5. Reconnect power cables in this order: TV, AVR, converter, Roku.You should have a 1080 picture on your TV after waiting for 10-30 seconds (press Home on your Roku).Go ahead and try to change your Roku display resolution to 4K, 4K HDR, 4K Dolby, one at a time, and get the best stable picture and sound. Don't forget to flip the EDID switch to 11000 first.You should stop here and be satisfied. I found the best picture with 11000 unless you use 7.2 Audio.You can play with the EDID switches if you like, but I caution you may have to start all over if Roku refused to co-operate.Good luck!

Let’s me record console and fixed PS5 issue i had with HDCP