Oshlun SBW-085060 8-1/2-Inch 60 Tooth Negative Hook Finishing ATB Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor for Sliding Miter Saws

I installed this blade with the graphics facing me like all blades I have ever purchased for table saws, chop saws or circular saws and consequently burned my new blade before realizing, my bad, that the direction of spin was opposite that of a sliding miter or radial arm saw; so be careful to install the blade in the proper direction of spin as indicated on the blade to avoid my mistake. You will notice most blades for a sliding miter saw or radial arm saw install with the graphics facing you for the proper direction of spin. The graphics on this blade facing out would be typical of a circular saw, just saying, be advised of the discrepancy.

I was gifted an old 1950's Dewalt radial arm saw over 20 years ago. I've used it for numerous home projects, from building a complex deck to simple shelves and many things in between. I haven't paid much attention to old blade on it (which was a Black & Decker Piranha probably from the 1980's), but it wasn't cutting very smooth and left a lot of tear-out on the bottom of the wood. I started looking for a replacement blade, which was a little tough. First the old bade is 9" and the housing is too small for a typical modern 10" blade. Then I researched and found that a low or negative hook angle was preferred for a radial arm saw. This is the angle of the carbide teeth on the saw. Most blades will have a positive hook angle and if these are used on a radial arm saw, they will pull themselves through the wood, which isn't the safest thing. A negative hook angle blade on a radial arm saw will feel very neutral and not pull itself through the wood. This blade being 8.5" with a negative hook angle, and fairly inexpensive was the best match for my radial arm saw. It cuts so much better than my old blade, I'm embarrassed that I didn't buy this years ago.

I bought this for my old Dewalt MBF radial arm saw. I had been drooling over a 9" Forrest cross cutting blade, but just couldn't see paying three times as much as this one cost. It gives almost perfect cuts -- glass smooth with almost no tearout. After buying this for myself, my wife got me the Forrest for Christmas. I probably should have returned the Forrest since the Oshlun was working just fine, but curiosity got the best of me. The Forrest may give a slightly better cut -- or it might just be my imagination. Perhaps it has very slightly less tearout, but only in number of fibers showing -- not the "size" of the fibers or chipouts. If you're trying to sand out any evidence of tearout, the "size" of the chipouts is the real issue, not the quantity -- so in that measure of cut quality, the Oshlun for me is as good as the Forrest for about a third of the cost.On the other side, the Forrest is USA made -- I can't tell where the Oshlun is made. I'm glad my wife got the Forrest as I'm try to buy US products as much possible and felt a bit guilty buying the Oshlun (hoping it might be US made). If I were using the blade daily, I probably would have bought the Forrest instead, as it has a proven reputation and the company has great resharpening service. For my once a month use, the Oshlun is perfect.

I can not say how long it will last because i have not had it long...but the cut on my radial arm saw (old dewalt) cut now is SOOO SMOOTH. I do not see any quality issues with it...I'm sure it is ok from what I have seen. This blade was recommended by Frank Howarth on YouTube. The negative hook makes it so the blade is less aggressive and thereforth tends to "push" less towards you when pulling the cutting blade towards you as you cut. I did notice this as true compared to my last blade (Freud 60 tooth sliding miter saw blade). I did not notice the "push" as much with the new blade...If the longevity holds up, then this is my new and only blade I will use on my radial arm saw from now on.

Well balanced, cuts clean and mean

Have not used much but has worked good so far.

These blades are excellent. I use them for my panel saw which I cut cabinet parts to make custom cabinets. Even though it's 8 1/2 versus 8 required they fit with minimal modification. The thin kerf allows 120v motor to cut with less effort than a standard Amana blade and the negative hook cuts plywood and melamine clean both sides. I have sharpened them but these blades under $30 l just keep using new ones.I was so happy with these blades that I purchased a 12" for my mitre saw. In all cases no wobble when they cut which is common for other thin kerfs.

... for the price, a decent enough blade. I have not had it long enough, or used it enough, to address its longevity or ability to be resharpened.However, for the price, it has proven to provide a nice clean splinterless and flawless cut. Typically, I prefer a full kerf. However, even with this being a "thin" kerf, there is no noticeable deflection.I've used more expensive blades that did not measure to the level of this one.

Before I had a circular saw blade on my miter saw and this blade is 10 times better! The negative tooth angle make a huge difference, the cut it a lot cleaner and it goes through the wood so easily.Also it doesn't ring like a bell when you knock it so the anti vibration slots really work, unlike other cheap blades.

Bought this while doing laminate floor renos. Did lots of cutting and the blade held clean precision cuts nicely and began to show wear towards the end of my job. Overall, I would buy again for a similar job.

Saw blade runs true and cuts with no vibration, leaves a nice smooth finish on sawed pieces.

Nice clean cuts, no blowout on backside, negative hook perfect for sliding mitre saw.

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