CC52-1507 7.25 in. CenterFire Dust Free Foam Blade for cutting EPS, XPS & Poly-ISO insulation

This blade worked wonderfully for cutting both EPS and XPS Foam insulation. I had to cut hundreds of 1" strips of foam for insulating a shop. Most if the sheets were 1" sheets and the blade cut through with no issue, on both types of foam. Some of the EPS sheets were up to 3 1/2" thick and I had to cut from both sides deep enough to be able to break the cut parts off. Prior to using this blade, I used a knife and a regular circular saw blade. The knife was way too slow and the regular blade made a huge mess, this blade cut with minimal effort and mess. I used both a table saw and a hand circular saw. Both worked, but the hand held saw worked much better. It was somewhat difficult to cut with the table saw unless everything was perfectly lined up, otherwise the blade would bind some, but it still worked much better than other cutting methods. I found that at times, the blade would start to make a lot of mess, and I would have to clean the melted residue off the blade and then it would work again. I would highly recommend this blade if you have a lot of foam to cut.

Straight walled cuts, no dust. My battery 7.25 saw could only take a 1 inch deep cut, probably need to use my corded drill for deeper cuts. Great for straight line cutting (ripping 4x8 2" foam board)

I have cut lots and lots of fiberglass-paper covered polyisocyanurate with my blade, using a normal Skil-Saw and after some trial and error my approach now is to only cut 1/2" to 3/4" deep. The blade will bind up some if you don't allow the cut off piece to fall away from the blade; I have a 1/2" sheet of plywood down and basically line up my cut along the edge of the wood (close counts). Instead of then lowering the blade to cut deeper, I have a 3" wide putty knife I have sharpened up along one edge, and I quickly and lightly make a couple of passes with that when I want a nice edge before snapping the foam. Tonight after work I plan to purchase a worm-drive saw, hoping that I can make a deeper cut even if I have to go slower.I cut some 1" pink foam with the blade about a year ago and as I remember it was almost effortless.

It would cut cleanly with little to no dust generation if I cut at an agonizingly slow rate. I do not recommend this product. I totally wasted money on this product.

This knife blade does work as advertised - as long as you prepare both the saw and the work area to the best advantage. Technique and an ear for the right sound out of your saw helps too.The problem stems from all the friction developed between the blade and the foam. The coating they put on the blade to help smooth out the friction is helpful, but not quite good enough. That’s why they recommend using a worm drive saw, because your saw will need to provide enormous amounts of torque.I’m using the Milwaukee battery powered 7-1/4” 18amp circular saw in 2 inch (25psi), EPS. It does do the job, but it’s important that I have a full or near full, high Ah battery loaded. Then, I still need to have the proper, somewhat slow driving technique to have full success in making a full-depth cut. I found the speed is set by the saw’s motor. Sometimes, no matter how I began the cut, it wouldn’t take. I’d have to reset at a higher depth and make two passes. I think a worm drive saw would not have these particulars, it’d just slice through. You don’t want to go too slow because there’d be too much heat build-up and then you would get melted pieces of EPS sticking to the blade. You can stop and restart (from the same spot) as many times as needed.I also made a habit of allowing the cut-off side to just hang loose and fall off as it went. The thinking was that there’d be no pinch to the blade. Pinching is a no-no! It’s amazing how this light weight material can stop a saw blade dead in its tracks, but it can, and does. You want your cuts to be as straight as humanly possible.I’ve also had great success in (1”) XPS. It seems easier to cut than the EPS. The manufacturer puts depth limitations on each foam type for making a single pass.All said and done, this is a good idea and a good product. I wish I would have bought mine before I made my first saw cut and filled the shed with countless EPS foam beads. This blade makes no debris (Zero)! If you’re making more than one cut in these foams - get the blade, it’s worth it.

If you plan to cut 2" thick XPS foam, read this. You will not be able to set the blade depth to cut the full 2 inches. I recommend "scoring" it with the blade set to 1" and then snapping it. This has worked well for me.If you set the blade to the full depth, it will either bind or the blade will slow down and generate more heat, creating a burning plastic smell and widening the kerf. My Ryobi brushless cordless saw didn't have the oomph, I had to use my corded Makita 5007MGA saw and even that would bog down with the blade depth set at 2".This blade indeed does not create any dust -- I didn't feel like I had to wear a respirator while cutting the boards. I haven't tried polyiso yet, I will update this review if anything negative happens there.

The blade cut and did not make any foam dust, but it needed to be forced through the foamboard. It also loaded my skillsaw to make the blade turn and caused my skillsaw to overheat while trying to cut foamboard.

I use this blade on a table saw to cut styrofoam sheets which we use to make insulated shipping boxes. The reason I use this instead of a standard saw blade is because cuts quickly and it produces very little dust.