P60 Wireless Stereo Amplifier for Passive Speakers, 300W x 2 TPA3255 2 Channel Mini Class D Home Audio Amp with PFFB, Bass Treble Control for Outdoor/Bookshelf/Turntable Speakers

Update: So, I've had this amp several months now. So far its been a great, reliable amp. I have my phone hooked up through the aux, and my PC hooked up via Bluetooth. The issue with shutting off appears to be connected to turning my computer off and leaving my amp on Bluetooth mode. After a certain amount of time without a Bluetooth signal the amp shuts off. When I discover this in the morning I unplug the amp for a couple of minutes and plug back in and it turns on and performs great. It's a bit of a glitch, or design flaw, but its avoidable and predictable and hasn't affected the overall reliability or performance of the amp. I still love it. I wonder if one of the other 1 star reviews had this issue and didn't figure out the cause. Given the price it can be purchased for, especially when on sale, I can honestly give it 5 stars (raising from my initial 4). Original Review: I like this amp a lot, but the verdict is still out on whether or not I'll be keeping it. The Bad: The description says it has a high pass filter. I'm not sure what they're talking about. There's no mention of a HPF anywhere on the unit and no subwoofer output, which is the only reason you'd need a high pass filter. I compared this to both the Aiyima A07 MAX and the Fosi ZA3s. This unit has a noticeably less expansive soundstage. I'm guessing it's because of the bass & treble controls that the other two lack. Lastly, and possibly fatally, I've left it on overnight a couple of times and when I come back to it, it has powered off. I thought it might be some self timer to save energy or something, but it won't power back on until I unplug it and let it sit a few minutes. Then it powers on fine. It's strange, because I listen to it all day working from home without a single glitch. I'm watching my return window because any other glitch at all and it's going back. The Good: It's really a great sounding little amp. For my desk setup, I appreciate the bass and treble controls. It's got more than enough power for a room twice the size of mine. You can replace the opamps which is fun for tinkerers. I'll probably do something with that in the future. It's a very nice looking unit, with the glass top and gentle blue LEDs inside. It has sturdy metal construction and nice weight to it. I have a 2nd to give as a gift. As long as this tendency to require unplugging doesn't get any worse, I'll just consider it a reminder to turn it off at night.

Excellent build quality. Using it with a 48V 10A GaN power supply. After all day use, under side of case is barely warm to touch, temperature of glass plate is also not anything I would worry about. Sounds very good. No listening fatigue. Using it with PC using RCA input. Plenty of power and volume at 12'o clock position in a room of size 16' x 12'. No pops, hiss or hum. Big bonus is the small foot print, low heat emission and light weight when delivering so much power. Love the internal lighting.

As most of you may realize (or not), there has been a preponderance (Renaissance, if you will) of these higher quality parts class D amplifiers from most of the bigger names such as Douk/Nobsound, Fosi Audio, Aiyima, and FX-Audio. When you come across a brand name such as "EYTSE," you're left scratching your noggin because virtually nobody, at least on this side of the pond, has heard of that brand. But that shouldn't come as a surprise because in many cases, items manufactured in China are produced by one or two OEM companies, and then the finished products are farmed out to various brands, so they can put their own logos on the products - although they all may be the same, save, perhaps, for cosmetic differences. Before I get to the music reproduction, let me mention a few things here. To begin with, this EYTSE amp is well-made - but then so are the competition from Douk, Fosi, and Aiyima? One area that had me wondering is that although EYTSE advertises this amp as being a sort of revolutionary design, it has virtually no ventilation ports or slats to keep the amp cool and ventilated, at least what I could gather. Yet in their advertisements, they mention ventilation slots - hmnnnnnnn?. As a result, this EYTSE P60 amp can become very warm (hot in some cases), especially with a 48V power supply connected. I find this a bit disconcerting. Yes, aesthetically, it looks very good, especially with the complete top area being glass so you can view the circuit board; however, with no perceivable ventilation, heat is trapped inside, and that cannot be good for long-term reliability. Another area, albeit miscellaneous, is that the tone controls do not have a center notch click-point which serves as the neutral position (reference point), so you are left to wonder "what setting is considered neutral?" This P60 amp, although quite compact - is roughly 10-20% smaller than the highly reviewed Douk A5 - yet, it has 4 changeable op amps for such a small unit - and of course, as most Chi-Fi class D manufacturers do, the NE5532 op amps are included as the stock versions. The first thing I did was to determine how to remove the board so I could op-amp roll. It's quite easy (not as easy and convenient as just lifting the glass top of the Douk A5), as all you have to do is to just unscrew the left and right screws on the rear, and then remove the knobs and small bolts/washers behind the knobs on the front. Then the entire board slides out. Since I had a half-dozen different op-amps available, I gave them all a try. They were the IC-based OPA2604, MUSES02, and LME4972, and on the Discrete side of the house, the Sparkos Labs SS3602, the Chinese-manufactured Sparkos clone, the SX52B, along with the Burson V5i. Now let's talk sound. Let me say right off the bat that this EYTSE P60 is a bit more sensitive to different types of op-amps, and I found it to be more so than most other Chi-Fi class D amps out there. To my ears, with my gear, it sounds exactly like other upgraded component class D amps such as the Douk A5, the Aiyima A07 Max, the Fosi V3, and the Douk A100, so no revolutionary sound changes here. And as my subject line indicates, it feels like a "me too" release, just to get in the game. So if you already have one of those other brand amps that I mentioned, there's really no reason to purchase this AYTSE version, unless you're an amp hoarder (like I tend to be). The first op-amp that I inserted was a Chinese clone of the much heralded Sparkos Labs SS3602, which they named the SX52B. Even though it's a clone, I've found it to be remarkably close to the Sparkos with regard to tonal characteristics, and prior to the tariff's being introduced, you could get this clone for anywhere between $11 and $15 each (talk about a bargain). Now, as of this writing, the SX52B is around $23. However, in the EYTSE, this SX52B clone performed horribly, sounding very thin, with no body to the music and virtually no bass. I couldn't believe my ears on this one because when used in other components, it sounded wonderful, and that's why I purchased ten of them. More so, even with a 48V power supply attached, I couldn't get any volume. I had to turn the volume on the EYTSE to the 4 o'clock position just to achieve a decent amount of volume. By the way, I'm listening on a near-field, desktop system. I then tried the discrete Sparkos Labs SS2602. It fared much better, but do keep in mind that the op amp receptacles in the EYTSE are spaced in such a way that with one of them, trying to insert wider discrete op amps such as the Sparkos Labs and the clone SX52B becomes a bit difficult as they either touch, or overlap. And trying to insert long ones (vertically long) such as the Burson V6's and V7's, won't work either because the case is too short from top to bottom. Now the shorter (and narrower) Burson V5i's fit perfectly. So in essence, this really just leaves IC-based op amps for the user to try effectively. And as was the case with the clone SX52B's, the Sparkos Labs op amps caused the volume levels to drop significantly. The Douk A100 amp had a similar issue with the internal gain settings being much lower (with any op amps and power supply). I then tried the IC based op amps that I had on hand (mentioned above). They all sounded wonderful, full-bodied, and the volume levels were now back to normal. I settled on both the MUSES02 and the OPA2604 versions as sounding the best with this EYTSE amp in my particular system. Now the bass response, particularly the upper/mid-bass area, sounded exaggerated (bloated), and I had to back off on the bass knob (again, not knowing where neutral was). I found that the amp tends to favor the mid-bass frequencies quite a bit, and I even had to back off on my powered subwoofer volume level. After a 12-hour warm-up period, I can confirm that the sound signature of this EYTZE is exactly the same as the likes of the Douk A5 and A100, the Fosi V3, and the Aiyima A07 Max and A70, with the exception that it's a bit too mid-bass bloated. If you're looking for something more definitive, meaning another class D Chi-Fi amp that sounds perceivably superior or different from many of the other amps out there, then you'll be disappointed. But make no mistake about it, the warmish, yet detailed sound of this EYTSE can be enticing. The reasons for my giving this EYTSE only 4 stars, instead of the 5-star rating, is due to the following: POSITIVES: 1. Superbly constructed and has an aesthetically pleasing visual appeal. 2. Being able to change the op amps (4 of them), 3. Quality electrical components used. 4. A warmer, higher-end sound quality similar to the big name competition such as Douk, Aiyima, and Fosi - although changing the op amps can alter the tonal characteristics a bit more than I'm accustomed to with competing class D designs. NEGATIVES (Subjective, I know): 1. There are no ventilation ports/slats on this P60, thus it can get very warm, especially when using a 48V power supply. 2. Although the top of the case is a see-through glass design, which may be well and good aesthetically, it would have been better if they designed it to lift off/detach, to allow the user to change out op amps (like the Douk Audio A5 allows) in a most convenient manner. 3. The spacing of the op amp receptacles is such (with one particular receptacle) that inserting wider discrete op amps such as the Sparkos Labs SS3602's or the SX52B clones was difficult at best. 4. The tone controls have no distinct click stop at the 12 o'clock level to indicate the neutral position, so you are left guessing. 5. The upper bass/lower midrange can become bloated, thus causing the amp to sound overly warm at times. I had to back off the subwoofer settings and also back off the bass control knob to get it to where I needed it to be. That's one of the tricks used by some of these upgraded component class D amps - in that the upper bass is tuned to be accentuated, giving the overall sound tonality a warmer feel. GEAR USED TO LISTEN AND EVALUATE THIS EYTSE P60 CLASS D AMPLIFIER: Speakers: KEF Q150 and KEF Q1 Meta bookshelf models, along with the Wharfedale D320 bookshelf speaker. Subwoofer used was a Presonus 8" active subwoofer placed under the table (again, this is a desktop, near-field system). Other Amps used to compare with: Douk A5, Fosi V3, Fosi V3 Mono's, Fosi ZA3, Douk A100, Ayima A07 Max and A70. DAC's used: iFI Zen Dac II, Fosi ZD3, Fosi Q6, Douk K5, FX-Audio D01, SMSL SU1, Schiit Modi 3+, and the JDS Labs Atom DAC+ Cables used (speaker, RCA, Balanced, and USB): Audioquest, World's Best Cables (WBC), Blue Jeans Cables (BJC). So there it is. Now, do keep in mind that even though the EYTSE P60 doesn't break any new ground - it does pack a tremendous wallop in the bass department, in addition to having a very open sound. To get the overall sound right where you want it to be, you will have to experiment with various IC-based op-amps (that look like the stock NE5532's), and also spend some time adjusting the tone controls. Now, mind you again, I found that to offset the exaggerated mid-bass, I had to turn down the bass control to 8-9 o'clock, and even then, instruments such as a bass drum, provide such a kick that it's startling at first. But everything else sounds right on - again, on my system, that is. If you don't have any other Chi-Com class D amps, this would be an ideal amp to get started with, as it has a very attractive sound (once you get all the settings right). Thus I gave it 4 out of 5 stars..

I am happy with this compact amplifier. It offers ample power for my needs and I like the tone controls. I use it to power a pair of audiophile grade speakers as near field monitors.

Great amplifier. This has replaced my Fosi v3. Great sounding amplifier with lots of power ( I'm using 48v 10Amp power supply). Absolutely love the looks of this amplifier. Highly recommend. Bluetooth works great. Great sound quality.

Waste of money. 3 months and the unit doesn’t work. It was reviewed as “4.8 star” so I felt it was a good pick. However, only double digit reviews. Easy to send in multiple reviews to encourage purchases. Other units had hundreds of reviews with good ratings. A complaint on the build would be the on-off toggle switch is very flimsy. Definitely going to break with heavy use. Also, the unit does get hot with long use as stated on utube reviews. Going to purchase another amp with more reliable reviews.

The EYTSE mini amplifier sounds and looks great. I recommend it!

Excelente sonido en bluetooth y RCA, totalmente recomendado