NavePoint 18U Deluxe IT Wallmount Cabinet Enclosure 19-Inch Server Network Rack with Locking Glass Door 24-Inches Deep Black

This is an oustanding server cabinet for the price and helped me organize all of my networking equipment that was previously scattered about the living room, the office and other parts of the house. As other people mentioned, the bracket it comes with is quite flimsy. This is the only real downside to the cabinet. I used it only to position the empty cabinet on the wall; and then used a variety of hardware and tools to secure it in place to actually hold a load (see attached photos). I wouldn't trust the included bracket with anything but the empty cabinet itself.I also purchased this tray for my router and cable modem:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0060RUURA/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_2...this shelf to hold a heavy UPS that is not rack-mountable:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LT64EDI/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_1...and this locking drawer to house my NVR:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WS7TSW/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_0The drawer was unfortunately not deep enough to house my NVR, but fortunately the I managed to locate the NVR's rack ears and simply rack-mount it.I also found a small swiveling monitor bracket at a local computer store, Central Computers, that mounts perfectly to the side of the cabinet without obstructing the door, and is black powder coated steel, so it matches the cabinet perfectly. I'll try to track down that product in an update to this review. I used this bracket to VESA-mount an old 19" Dell monitor I use with the NVR that was previously mounted to a work bench in my garage.As far as the install goes, most people, like me, will probably want to mount it high on the wall. I personally managed to wrestle the very heavy cabinet myself onto the bracket, but I don't recommend it. You will probably want one or even two assistants for that portion of the install if you are doing the same thing; obviously if you mount it low on the wall, it won't be as much of an issue.As you can see in the attached photos, I mounted the cabinet with several lag screws through the sheer panels we have installed in our garage and into the studs; a couple of stud-mounted, stainless-steel, 10" corner braces of the variety you can find in most hardware stores in abundance, and mounted themselves 2 1/2" stainless-steel decking screws with finishing washers; a few stainless-steel decking screws with washers and the left side of the case just inside the door; a brace made with a kiln-dried 2x4 and attached with a carriage bolt; another bit of the same 2x4 wedged under a corner and running down to the mud-sill, stud-mounted and reinforced with the remainder of the 2x4; another corner brace attached to the previous 2x4; and aircraft cable and a heavy-duty turn-buckle from a joist above the cabinet, in the highly unlikely event all of the above fails. Oh, and I almost forgot, I added a fourth corner brace at the top right of the cabinet where it meets the wall. We live in earthquake country, so I want to make sure the cabinet is glued to the wall.If you want to attempt a similar install, you will need the same tools and know-how; otherwise, you will need to get a friend, relative or general contractor to do it for you. I highly recommend a similar approach for anyone buying any wall-mount cabinet like this considering the weight you will be putting in the cabinet, especially if you are throwing a UPS in it like I have. A 1U UPS can easily weigh 50 pounds, and there are some 2U units that weigh in around 100.If doing it yourself, you will need a power drill, preferably corded, or if cordless relatively high power; a set of cobalt drill bits of various sizes, in addition to a large drill bit (3/4" or 1") and/or a stepping drill bit; an adjustable wrench and/or a socket wrench set; a level, preferably magnetic; and a mitre saw if making a corner brace like I did.It is also worth mentioning this unit ships flat-packed and you will have to assemble it yourself from instructions. I have no problem with this, personally, and enjoyed putting it together.As others mentioned, it doesn't ship with an excess of cage nuts and bolts; you will want to order additional hardware for your equipment. I've noticed that this seems to be the industry standard though; none of my rack-mounted gear or any of the accessories shipped with cage nuts or bolts.I should also mention that while secured with locks, this isn't the most secure unit. The locks and tempered glass will easily be defeated by a determined person with the right tools; however, I doubt most burglars are going to go to the trouble of breaking into your cabinet to steal or damage your equipment. If someone is that determined, they are probably more than common burglars, in which case you have much bigger problems than having your house broken into. However, if you want something more secure you will have to shell out a lot more money. If you are building a data center, I wouldn't recommend this cabinet. If you are a home-user, as everyone in the reviews seems to be, then it's fantastic.The above said, the tempered glass on the front is very thick and heavy, and the steel overall is quite thick and sturdy. The powder coat is well done, stands up well to abuse and doesn't seem to flake even around the edges of the numerous holes I drilled into the case.Update regarding the monitor mount as promised:http://en.loctek.com/a/product/FlatPanelMounts/Full-motion%20mounts/2010/0812/176.htmlAs you can see from my photo, it fits perfectly between the front door and the side panel and allows the monitor to swing completely around to either side of the corner. It also has side-to-side rotation and a little bit of forward tilt.

Arrived super quick and though the box had minor exterior damage, all items inside were intact and nicely packed. It took me somewhere between 1.5 and 2 hrs to assemble my 12U Pro Series rack. Everything aligns nicely, and the assembly was not difficult. You could save some assembly time by deciding (before it arrives) where you want the vertical rails mounted (how close to the front door, how close to the back of the cabinet. I measured, moved, leveled, etc. 'cause I'm just that way. Your assembly time might be less.The quality of materials is great as is the powder coat finish. I did notice some very, very fine metal whiskers here and there - you definitely want to wipe down the cabinet, vacuum, or blow it off with an air compressor. These are the things that can wreck havoc in a data center and you don't want zinc/metal whiskers anywhere near your expensive electronic gear or servers.There is plenty of room for my planned gear and expansion. I debated between the 9U and 12U but went with the 12U because I wanted good airflow and a 2U drawer in the cabinet, as well as a shelf for small items (MYQ Gateway, Home Automation controller, etc.). I'll have 8U initially populated and room for some expansion so this cabinet suits my needs extremely well.I mounted it to a concrete block wall in my garage and I read quite a bit about mounting recommendations, concrete block construction, best drilling location on the block and the correct anchors to use. I ended up using Tapcon 5/16" x 2-3/4" for the mounting bar (this is not a recommendation, your needs may vary) and I'm also adding an 18" pressure treated 2x4 underneath the cabinet for extra support. I don't really need it but I'd rather over do it and never worry about whether I had secured it safely enough. It's on that wall good and tight, ready for whatever I add (I'll be well under the max spec of 130 lbs).Really happy with this rack and the price was great too. If you're looking for a nice rack that's not too pricey but has a ton of flexibility and access options, check out the Navepoint Pro Series.Updated: I have observed a safety issue and subsequently reduced my 5 stars to 4 stars. The exhaust fans are AC, connected by a small 4-post terminal block. This block has an adhesive pad that I assume was secured when the cabinet shipped, however mine came loose and was dangling in the cabinet. The issue is that the terminal screws are exposed and near the surface of the block. Should you mistakenly touch those screws for any reason while powered, it would be the same as sticking your finger in a light socket. Its easy enough to fix with a piece of electrical tape, shrink tubing, epoxy or silicone to cover the exposed screws, but it is a small issue as it is.