System Three T-88 Epoxy Adhesive, 0.5 Pt Bottle, Amber

I am restoring and rebuilding a wood and steel biplane. This is the structural epoxy of choice, recommended by the A&P that is helping me out. I have been extremely happy with the performance. Easy to mix small portions, easy to thicken using fumed silica, and easy to work with as it has a very long working time in normal temps.It does take at least 4-6 hours to become "hard enough to handle", and overnight for a reasonably full cure. Its possible to speed this up with gentle heat (100F), but I have not found that necessary in my use case.With that said, this is a structural epoxy, and not a 5-minute epoxy. S3 does make other types, including penetrating epoxies and putties etc. Be sure to read the data sheets depending on what your use case is.Be sure to follow proper storage procedures as well, and only order what you plan to use within a year or two, and store in a dry room-temperature place. The resin can harden from moisture if stored for too long or improperly.

Easy to work with, just like most epoxies, and plenty of application time and goes on well. I decided to really test out this product and give it a challenge, something I didn't care if it failed, and one that I thought would be difficult for any glue to succeed at. I have a very old particle board kitchen table, ugly as sin, and heavy as hell. Must be about 40 pounds. Old rusted metal legs and rusty screws, and one of the legs with 8 screws had been ripped right out of the particle board top. All I did was make sure the screws would go back into place; I didn't prepare them in any way, I didn't clean the rust of the screws, and I didn't even make sure all the dusty particle board was removed from the holes.Mixed up a total of about a tablespoonful of the two-part mixture, and I drizzled it slowly into all the ripped-out holes, and applied some more liberally to the old rusty screws, waited about a minute, then I stood the leg up and inserted the screws into place and weighted it down with my tool bag. For an extra amount of steadiness, I wrapped a rope around the legs and tied it in place. Temps got down to close to freezing one night, then 40 degrees, then about 46 the 3rd night, before I stood it up and tested it out. Put my 30 lb table saw on top of it and pushed it around. I can slide the table across the concrete floor of my porch, and I even stood it up on the one repaired leg briefly so I could wedge the table back into its spot in the corner where it will probably stay for awhile. I couldn't be happier with this product's performance, especially for not having done any real prep work to make the bond stronger or longer lasting. Only time will tell if it's actually a success, but a lot of epoxies wouldn't have made it this far. The only thing I noticed, because I always leave my mixing cups and applicator sticks in the glue while bond cures, is that it pulled off fairly easily from the bottom of the plastic stock medicine bottle I used as a mixing cup. I now know that I probably can't use this epoxy on un-prepped plastic, because it just pulls right off. Maybe roughing up the surface might improve the bond, but it's something to remember for future repairs, because something like E-6000 bonds fairly easily to the slickest of plastics with very little prep work.I have a backup plan for if the glue fails on the leg repair, involving new holes and support brackets, but I'm happy with the results I got. Would definitely buy this product again, and I will! My wife is a tearer-downer, and I'm (by necessity) a fixer-upper.

This stuff works! Glued a tab back on a motorcycle faring part - even filled in a gap in the tab and faring. Solid as a rock.

A slow set-up epoxy is handy for some work and I've used this 1/2 pint T-88 kit since 2011. My part A and B containers were more than half full. But I discovered a leak in the box that housed the two plastic containers. I think the leak may have resulted from excess pressure within the Part B container (the amber hardener). Quite a mess! I just ordered another kit today (2/27/21), and plan to keep the kit in the house where it stays cool. I'd had the previous kit in the garage, which can get quite hot. My theory is keeping it cool will prevent a similar problem.

Seems to work well. To accurately mix equal parts of small amounts I used cheap plastic medicine cups with volume markings that I purchased on Amazon from a beading store (25 cups and 25 stirring sticks). I filled the resin to the 5 ml line, then added the hardener to the 10 ml line, and mixed. No need to use two cups.The long working time allows you to thoroughly mix without fear of cutting into your assembly time. The leftover cured product in the cup did not seem sticky or gummy at all, so I suspect those complaining about this may not have accurately measured or thoroughly stirred.I used this to glue threaded metal inserts in furniture that had pulled out of the wood. These inserts have exterior threads that screw into the wood, and interior threads that hold a bolt. Some of the exterior threads were broken and a lot of the wood had been pulled out of the hole.I capped the bottom of the threaded insert with heavy foil tape (HVAC tape) so the epoxy would not get on the interior threads. I used a lot of epoxy and let it soak into the wood for 5-10 minutes before assembly, stirring it in the hole every minute or so. I cleaned and roughed up the metal inserts with a file and put epoxy on them as well. The holes for the inserts were deeper than the inserts themselves, so I put some excess epoxy in the hole. After I assembled the pieces, I turned the whole thing upside down, so the excess epoxy in the hole would flow around the threaded insert. It worked because after curing, I could not push the foil tape off the bottom of the insert; the epoxy had hardened around it.Only time will tell how well it works, but the inserts seem to be in there solid.

This stuff takes a while to reach full hardness,but when it does,it's unbeatable.Works very well with tough to glue woods where some of the other vaunted epoxies won't hold........they're too thin and get sucked into the wood pores.Love it.Keep up the good work guys.