48V/36V Electric Bicycle Conversion Kit LCD Meter(SW900) 26"/24" E-Bike Waterproof Brushless Gearless Front Hub Motor Wheel Direct Drive Dual Mode Controller 1200W/1000W/750W

I've been building electric bikes for 25 years. This is the best motor I've ever used. If you connect the blue wires together your street legal at 18 mph and for off-road you should disconnect the blue wires for 30 miles an hour in off-road mode. I get 30 miles of range and I weigh 250 lb on a 15 amp hour battery. Very efficient motor. Totally silent operation unlike a geared motor this direct drive motor is silent. You may need torque arms if your forks aren't strong enough to hold it. I recommend the front motor because it's easier to service when you have a flat tire but the back motors are good too. You'll see a lot of motors like this around but this is the best company to buy from. Quality service support and price and performance all top shelf! You won't be disappointed if you buy this motor. You can go up the longest Hill and it doesn't heat up like some motors do. Very reliable I've been running my motor for more than a year now. And there's no appreciable where damage or anything. If you want to build an electric bike it's all about the motor in this motor will ensure that you succeed in getting what you want. This is by far the best deal on the internet for reliable dependable strong easy to install and maintain operation!. Do not put this on aluminum forks unless you have a torque arm and torque arms are $9 on Amazon as well so make sure you get a torque arm if you have an aluminum fork because this thing makes so much torque it'll break the aluminum forks. Steel forks work best. I recommend the torque arm regardless of whether you have steel or aluminum.

If your like me an find agrivation and tinkering enjoyable buy this kit. It took a 12 pack and 2 days to install. Actual hours was about 6. Old lady was convinced I was busy and productive. Didn't get one dirty look like I usually do while drinking beer sitting in a chair while watching TV. 220 bucks well spent. With that said if your the person that thinks your going to install it in 15 minutes and look like a boss then buy a prebuilt ebike and miss out on all the fun. Now on to the boring parts.The product was shipped quickly and arrived early.The dropout is beefy. As shown on the pic it's 14mm. this may be a problem for some bikes. It's approx 10mm on the squared sides. Anyway it fit my frame. I decided to build a tourque arm as my dropouts are aluminum. At 1000 watts it might have not been necessary and added a few hours to the build.The wiring was dead simple. All connectors only plugged into the corresponding connector except for the phase wires and battery connections as they were individual connections. If your not color blind it's pretty easy. Keep in mind you may need to de-pin the other 5 wires off of the motor to remove the nut and washers to space it out or add a torque arm. Easy to do with a pick.When the wheel was centered my brake rotor was a 1/4" off. I built a torque arm that was the same width that uses the bracket as a mount so that was 2 birds one stone.The thing goes 25mph on a 36 v battery. It calls for a 48v battery to get to 1000w but it's what I had. Will upgrade to 60 v as the controller can handle it and read the battery level correctly after changing setting in the sw900 display.Only complaint I had was the wheel was nicked. It was not from shipping as the box was in good shape. I used a file and sand paper to knock them down. Not a huge deal as the wheel was still true.For those that worry that the wheel is narrow. It is it's only approx 1" but I ended up installing a 2.6" tire without a problem.There were a few questions about a thumb throttle. You can add one as the principle of the wires are the same but the connector may be different. You will need to hardwire them together with but connectors or solder.

So impressed started a business making ebikes! These motors CRANK, 28-32mph on full throttle, and will run 33 miles on a 20AH battery at full speed (much more at slower speed or pedal assist). It says 1000W but they actually consume 1300W or more on acceleration, I called the company they said its fine, and you can always lower that max Amps in the controller configuration. The displays are very nice, they show battery level, speed, odometer/trip meter, and PAS Level. I use $15 Group size 27 battery boxes, trim them down to size and cut slots in the corners for the lower height, add a little foam top and bottom, which makes them into the perfect size for a 20AH battery and the controller. It takes most of a day to build (more if you want to add headlight/horn as I do). I have built many and run them for hours and not one has failed yet. There are other kits out there but these pass every test and are quite affordable, so look no further. Front or rear doesn't really matter, but if you trail-ride you will want rear drive as otherwise the front slips (you probably would not want them on the trails anyway, they are quite heavy 20+ lbs, plus the battery). The restrict mode is pretty lame, they seem to limit to 500W, but the restrict settings can be programmed in the controller if you want. Customer support is responsive and they say you can order parts from them if necessary (I haven't tried this yet as I haven't had to).