Volkswagen Oil Filter Housing - 07K115-397A

This looked and felt like a quality OEM product. For critical items like these, I highly urge you to go OEM. You can easily find cheaper aftermarket "OE-like" products, but I don't think it's worth cheaping out on an engine component that requires several hours of focused work to replace. I really appreciated some of the tips that other Amazon reviewers provided below, and I have a couple of my own for your consideration. THESE ARE FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY.If your car is high mileage such as mine, I recommend using this as an opportunity to replace other wear items for overall engine longevity. The 2.5L is bullet-proof as long as it is maintained well, and many of these replacements are not expensive, even for OEM parts. Examples include PCV diaphragms, valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, vacuum pump gaskets, spark plugs/coil packs, coolant expansion tank, oil filler cap seals - basically lots of gaskets and seals that eventually fail.I replaced the oil filter housing from the top of the engine bay by removing the intake manifold. There are great tutorials online that provide step-by-step instructions to remove the manifold. My car is nearing 160k miles so I wanted to replace intake manifold gaskets and clean up the intake ports due to a previous oil leak from a valve cover gasket failure. BE CAREFUL not to let any unwanted debris or items fall into the intake ports. This is also a good chance to clean out the oily gunk in the intake manifolds and the carbon build-up in the throttle body. I believe that doing this really helped with the car's start-up and idle.Even with the intake manifold out, access to the oil filter housing is restricted. I removed the thermostat housing, so be prepared to have about 0.5-1L of coolant spill out. Have some coolant on hand (make sure it's the right coolant specs and dilution per your car's manual) and also take this chance to replace the thermostat. Access was still pretty restricted, so I unbolted the oil filter housing from the engine block, then unbolted the oil cooler from the filter housing, and then wiggled the filter housing out from the bottom. You could remove the filter housing with the oil cooler still on it, but reaching the hose clamp was a huge pain. Reassembly is straightforward once you took everything out.REPLACE THE OIL PRESSURE SENSOR WHILE YOU'RE AT IT!! This is a little oil pressure sensor/switch that bolts right onto the oil filter housing. The part # for my car is 06D919081B. It's a cheap $10-15 item, but can cause a huge headache if it fails because you have to repeat these steps AGAIN just to get access and replace it. I had no idea, so after I replaced the oil filter housing, bolted everything back up, and drove for a few days, I noticed ANOTHER small oil leak from the housing, and became furious thinking that I received a defective oil filter housing. Upon closer inspection, I am positive it is the oil pressure sensor, and will be tackling this job again. Hope this can save you from a headache :)Another thing you could do while you have better access in the engine bay is to replace the alternator. I know you can do it by removing the headlight housing, but alternators are a wear item in older cars anyway.

Such a pain to replace this part but it was a perfect fit for our 2.5L 2010 Jetta. Looks like the oil lead has stopped now too so happy with this fairly inexpensive fix.

Volkswagen Oil Filter Housing - 07K115-397AUsed this on my MK5 Jetta and it worked out great I have no more oil leaks.

Some suggest replacing the oil filter housing from underneath, but in my opinion it’s best to tackle it from the top.You’ll need to remove the intake manifold which isn’t too much trouble. Better have a 14” 6mm hex bit socket though (~$25 CTA Tools #8541) to easily reach two of the lower manifold bolts. If not, you’ll be fighting with them for awhile. Save the headache and get the 14” 6mm hex.Once the intake manifold is removed, you’ll have to take off the thermostat cover to remove the oil filter housing. You could also leave the thermostat untouched by disassembling the oil filter housing from the oil cooler while it’s on the car, but personally I’d take the cover off and replace the thermostat while you’re in there- cheap insurance. When you take the t-stat cover off you’ll need a bottle of coolant (I like Pentosin E) and distilled water to replace what leaks out. Make sure you have an adequate drip pan underneath your car (buy a washing machine tray form HD or Lowe’s for ~$20 if you don’t have one).Once the thermostat cover is removed there are five M10 triple square bolts holding the housing to the engine block. You’ll want a swivel socket handy because some of the bolts are not a straight shot. Be sure to also disconnect the coolant hose from back of the thermostat housing to the oil cooler / heat exchanger.Once all that’s done you can lift the entire assembly upwards and out of the engine bay. Transfer the oil cooler from the old housing to the new one and tighten the bolts to 18.5ft/lbs. Reinstall the oil filter housing to the engine block and tighten those bolts to 18.5ft/lbs as well. When you finally get back to reinstalling the intake manifold, snug those bolts to 7ft/lbs.Before starting the car back up, fill the coolant reservoir with a 50/50 mixture of coolant and distilled water. Leave the top off the reservoir and start the car. Almost immediately you should see the coolant in the reservoir decrease. Continue to fill to the full mark while the car gets up to operating temperature. It’s helpful to make sure you heat works and the temp stays at 190F once fully warmed up. If it does, then you refilled the coolant correctly and any air bubbles burped out. Reinstall coolant cap and take the car for a drive. If the coolant goes any lower after the drive LET THE ENGINE COOL before adding more fluid.Now have a cold beer.

Bought this with the grand delusional ambition of replacing it myself, mechanic was more than happy to do it for me and now there's no more leaks (till next time at least, thanks Germany)

I contacted the seller before ordering and they checked the part against my VIN. The part was a perfect fit for my 2012 Golf 2.5. the install was tough as you have to remove a lot of components to get to it. Very soild genuine VAG part.

It came on time and fits perfectly 👌

This is an OEM part that works well.I normally purchase and install aftermarket parts. In this case, ONLY purchase the OEM.I’ve attach pictures of the aftermarket and the OEM seal between the oil filter housing and the engine block. The OEM seal is 50 to 100 mil thicker. The thickness difference was enough to stop the leak.I’ve replaced this oil adapter filter housing 3 times.Below are some of the lessons learned.1. Use VAG Tool 1921 Coolant Hose Clamp Pliers for VW Volkswagen Audi (needle nose pliers will add 30 to 60 minutes)2. Use Triple square bit sockets (M10 & M8)3. Only use OEM due to gasket issues4. Clean engine block gasket surface5. I replaced it by removing the front end. I’m afraid of cracking the plastic manifold ;(6. Normally takes 3 hrs from the front endHope this helps.