Vehicle Exit Sensor, Driveway Gate Vehicle Exit Wand Sensor with 50 ft Cable, Compatible with Mighty Mule, Ghost Controls, liftMaster Vehicle Door Opening Systems

Updated Review (still 5 stars)YES!!! You can extend the distance of the exit wand from the gate.Since this does not use shielded cable, I found a 50-ft length of 20/5 stranded cable, and used that to extend the distance of the exit wand from my gate opener. I used waterproof heat-shrink crimp connectors to make sure the connections between the cables were protected from water (it's in buried conduit, and you can count on that being wet). Once hooked up, before I buried the conduit, I tested it and it most certainly worked. I may still need to adjust the sensitivity a bit, but that's an easy job.So, yes, I'm very happy with this product!!!====== Original Review Below ========This works so much better than the "wireless" systems I've tried in the past. Where my gate is located, I've found that I suffer a lot of RF interference from a 12kV power line that runs almost directly above my gate and opener. That interference has made it impossible to depend on a wireless (well, not really wireless, but not physically wired to the gate opener) exit wand always working when needed. It's very annoying when your guests call you as they are leaving to tell you they can't get out your gate! And there's also the issue of the batteries for the wireless system needing replacement at inconvenient times.Anyway, I've looked at the hard-wired exit wands, but the cost of a proprietary exit wand has been pretty high ($150 to $200 or more for a simple hard-wired wand), so I had not purchased one to try. And then I discovered that there were the "generic" exit wands like this one that were supposed to work with almost any gate opener. And the price was right (only $90 at the time, and currently even less than that) so I pulled the trigger on it.The most challenging part of the installation was figuring out the proper connections inside the gate controller. The instructions that come with the wand cover some odd brand I've never heard of, but several folks have said they had success with other, better known brands (like Ghost Controls, the brand I have). By studying both the wiring connection instructions included with the wand, and the instructions for the Ghost Controls wand connections, I had a good idea what needed to be connected where.With my trusty multimeter as an aid, I was able to hook it up and it worked on the first try! I tried fiddling with the included sensitivity adjustment potentiometer, but ended up just leaving it at maximum sensitivity, since I don't worry about lawnmowers or other small items causing the gate to open unexpectedly.You have some options for the connections inside the Ghost Controls controller. First, for power, you have the option of using either 12-24VDC or 12-24VAC to power the wand. If you NEVER have power outages, it doesn't matter which you choose. For AC, you would use the main power input connections coming from the transformer that powers the unit. For DC, you can use the battery connection terminals, or find some other terminal in the controller that remains "hot" even when the AC power is hot (in other words it has a direct connection to battery power). The Ghost Controls instructions show their wand being connected to the "Lock", "+" terminal, and when I checked it with the multimeter, it did show that it was at battery voltage (about 13VDC) even with the opener external power shut off.Another connection was the "ground" shown in the instructions with the wand. On the Ghost Controls unit, they use the term "COM" instead of "ground", and there are actually multiple terminals labeled this way. It doesn't matter which of these you choose, since they are all connected together internally.For the connection that actually activates the gate, the "OPEN" terminal in the "Hardwired Inputs" block is used.The sensitivity adjustment potentiometer is connected to "COM" and to the yellow wire from the exit wand.So, summarizing, since the wire color conventions are a little odd with this exit wand, the wiring I used is as follows:Red Wire: Connected to the "LOCK" "+" terminalGreen Wire: Connected to any "COM" terminalBlack Wire: Connected to any "COM" terminalBlue Wire: Connected to the "HARDWIRED INPUTS" "OPEN" terminalYellow Wire: Connected to the yellow wire from the sensitivity adjustment potentiometer.Green Wire (from the adjustment potentiomenter): Connected to any "COM" terminal.A side note... while most of the proprietary hardwired exit wands use shielded cable between the wand and the controller, this one is NOT shielded. If you need extra distance between your wand and the controller, it MIGHT be possible to splice a length of ordinary 5-wire cable to the wand. I did not try this, but I think it would work.

Works great… Amazing quality and performance!

Could never get it to work with my Ghost gate opener controller. The OEM brand wand has 5 wires to connect, and this one only has three, so despite trying numerous configurations, I couldn't get it to operate. The wiring diagram which came with the wand is not identical to the way the wand came pre-wired. In the installation diagram, there are green and yellow wires in addition to black, red and blue coming from the wand. The instructions state that the green and yellow wires go to the adjustment board - each to one side of the board - and then each goes to ground. With my wand, however, the yellow wire comes from the bundle to one side of the adjustment board and the green wire comes from the bundle and goes to the other side of the adjustment board. Both the green and yellow wires are soldered to the adjustment board, thus there are no green and yellow wires to go to ground.I'll give it another go a few days from now and update this review if there are any changes in the outcome.

Not much to take a picture of as I've buried mine already.. BUT it does work very well!I have several gates around my property with openers - the one I put it on is my main gate in/out and I have to push a remote button to open it. I put this in on the section where we leave from, about 30 feet from the gates (it says at least 25' and comes with a 50' cord.) I routed the wire through a seam in the concrete to get it where I needed it so it took up some of that slack. I used my edger (the kind with the metal blade) to make a shallow trench for the wire as it's in a part of my yard I won't be digging in anyway. After a few good rains and some grass growing you'll never know it was there.Instructions were pretty simple; I suggest the use of some of the "clip" type connectors (Wago?) to connect multiple items if you have them. (I also have an exit loop for guests/deliveries, along with the standard "clicker" and a wifi controller.)Red is positive power, green is ground, black/blue are your relay connection (I connected mine to my exit sensor connection but don't connect it to the "1 side" or "2 side" and common) and then green (again) and yellow go to the sensitivity adjustment board. (I used double-sided sticky tape to attach it to the inside.)If yours has an exit loop function, use that - using the "1 side" or "2 side" connection means that every time it senses something, it will open OR CLOSE the gates. So if you have a trailer while passing it will likely sense two things and try to close your gate on you! In the instructions it says "card swipe" but yours may be labelled "exit only" (meaning an activation on that set of terminals will ONLY OPEN the gates.)AGAIN - let me be clear - DO NOT connect it to where you connect your normal remote to. Connect it to an "exit" or "card swipe" set of terminals that will ONLY open the gates.Took the opportunity to rewire and neaten up my control box, and it turned out great! I can drive my car by it (slowly of course) and it opens just fine. I'm not sure if I have the sensitivity set right or not though, again I just sticky-taped it to the inside of the box and twisted it all the way to one side. You'll probably have to experiment with it.Overall an excellent exit wand!

I got this to work with a mighty mule opener. So far so good. I have not buried it under the ground yet since its dead cold here but sitting on the road it does do the job. Instructions were straight forward