Waterslide Decal Paper 20 Sheets Pack, Clear or White, Inkjet or Laser Printer Choose From Menu (CLEAR FOR INKJET) …

I bought this decal paper to make a gift for a friend. It works well, and is relatively simple to use. I let the ink dry for a few hours, then sprayed three coats of Krylon clear acrylic (drying 15 minutes between layers, as directed on the Krylon can) over the transfer paper. I let that dry for 24 hours, then cut out the decals and applied them according to the Waterslide Paper directions. The first decal came out nicely, but I botched the second one... it folded over and stuck to itself and ended up falling apart...but that was all on me.Obviously there is a knack to getting the decals on, and I'm sure it just stakes a bit of practice. I think what got the first one to go on easier was that the decal was a larger, simpler shape. It was easy to scoot around and correct flaws. I was also able to use an exacto knife while it was still wet to cut out large blank spots. On the decal I messed up, the shape was more complicated and I couldn't get it to stop bunching up. Again, that was my mistake and not a flaw of the product. To avoid that in the future, decals should be cut into more basic shapes that can then be trimmed with an exacto knife after application. I used a hair dryer to 'fire' the decal, since the mug I used was not oven safe. No word yet on the durability of the decal.

I bought this product to use on (baked) polymer clay surfaces. The items I make tend to have detailed, textured surfaces, so I needed something that wouldn't peel up when I wanted the decal to stay put.I would suggest getting Micro Sol to work with this. A drop will help soften the surface of the decal and help it to conform to the shape of the item you're working with.I would also suggest printing a test color swatch in one of the corners of a page, because what you see on your computer screen, what prints out on normal printer paper, and what prints out on this waterslide decal paper are all very different things. Play around with it, get a feel for how your printer works with this paper, and it will help you greatly.All in all, it's been working great for me! I would not suggest getting this without investing in Micro Sol if you're working with textured surfaces. That said, after the Micro Sol application the decals appear "fused" with the surface of my clay; I have no concerns about peeling and they look good. It's not as vibrant as I may have liked, but that's easily fixed with a quick application of a gloss varnish and - occasionally - some detailing with acrylic paint. I suggest getting this and trying it out for yourself. It has great value for the price.Also, major thanks to the seller for the extra sheet! I'll put it to good use.

I bought the white laserjet type decals and I bake them on the glass at 325 degrees in the oven for 20 minutes.I have only used them on glass so far and the baking process works great in bonding the decal to the glass as well as slightly melting the laserjet toner on the decal so it turns glossy. I have made over 50 mugs and glasses so far and have had no complaints. I tested my process by soaking the baked on decals in warm soapy water for 3 hours and then under a stream of hot water try to rub it off the glass. To date all the glasses with white decals I tested passed, but found that the clear decals do not bond as well for some reason so I seal them on the glass with a clear enamel spray paint. .

I bought these to use for DIY nail decals. Works perfectly fine with my HP OfficeJet 6310 InkJet printer! They also come off the backing really easily after being dipped in water.+ If you remove them with acetone(nail polish remover) it's super easy ( i used a clear top coat nail polish to seal in the ink)Just a FYI if you're going to be using these for nail decals: make sure that the nail decals are either smaller or exactly the size of your nails because it's super hard to remove the edges/extra decals around your nails with nail polish remover (you have to "pull" on extra decal with the nail polish remover which in turn ends up ruining/stretching the designs and/or pull off a strip of the decal)

Bought this for redoing an EDP footswitch that was badly chipped and most of the switch labels worn off. After sanding, prepping and painting the housing I created new panel graphics in Illustrator and printed them out on the decal paper with an inkjet printer. After allowing them to dry the recommended time I cut them out and applied them. The whole process went very smoothly! They were very easy to handle wet and I had no problems removing any bubbles without damaging the decal.Ten coats of clear Krylon later I have a finished project that looks exactly the way I had hoped it would. I also used a partial sheet leftover to print a fun graphic and apply to my young son's water bottle. This was applied as-is, with no clear coat and although it did get scratched up over time, it held up very well considering my son uses the water bottle daily and not very gentle with it.

This was my first water slide attempt and I’m done with printable vinyl! I used the same printer with this as I did the printable vinyl but the water slide image is so much more crisp and clean looking. Application is very simple but I will give one tip. As the water slide dries it sort of shrink wraps itself to the item you have placed it on. So don’t worry if it doesn’t seem to adhere right away. Also don’t over work it once you place it. Be very gentle or it will tear. Check back every little bit so you can catch any lifted edge. I also learned the hard way to print, seal, cut. Do not print, cut, seal or you seal the image to the backing and it won’t slide off easily.

This was as described and arrived in good time