Little Nipper Mouse Traps (4 pack)

Does a great job it has has two mice overnight in my shed at this rate I should clear them within a week so easy to use I just put a very small amount of mars bar on the spike and they can’t resist going for it I would definitely recommend these traps

I have tried many varieties of mouse trap and they all have positives and negatives. If you co-habitate with particularly sensitive individuals who panic easily, then glue and tilt style traps are not ideal and can also prolong the ordeal for the mouse if not checked regularly.The only one I have found that is effective both in ease of setting and despatch of the mouse is Little Nipper, this was a repeat purchase.Setting the trap is a simple matter of baiting the bait pin, bending the large metal square over, raising the trapping board and putting the long pin under the small metal arch. Once set, the mouse will be attracted to the bait on the pin on the raised trapping board, step on the board which dislodges the pin and springs the trap.These are easy to set, but if you have any dexterity issues or it is your first time using them it is recommended you wear thick gardening gloves when setting the trap to avoid a painful snap on your fingers! Also as the traps are designed to be sensitive they may activate if you set and try to then carry them over to the desired position in the room as any slight knock or vibration can cause the pin to come out and the trap to activate.In terms of bait forget cheese, unfortunately real life is nothing like Tom and Jerry. Cheese is largely ignored and will dry out quickly. I have found the most effective bait to be peanut butter as this means the mouse also has to hang around to consume it rather than a quick swipe and carrying away a block of bait (thereby decreasing the effectiveness).Main positives:Small so suitable for use under raised kitchen cupboards (with peg legs)Easier to set than other trapsFast to react to a mouse intrusionMain negatives:Not suitable around children or small pets, look at sonic deterrents instead (unless pet is a cat in which case they need to start working for their supper!)Made of wood so can stain after the desired result achieved (enough said) so in some instances you may want to consider them single use

"Little Nippers' seem exactly the same as they where when I first bought them in the 1970s and still very inexpensive and effective. I note there are numerous other more elaborate and more expensive solutions on the market but why "fix what isn't broken" [Words that all grasping marketing men must deplore].It fact this purchase of Nippers was an improvement on those of yesteryear. In the seventies, eighties and ninties, I used to have to settle down to fettle and tweak each trap so that it would snap in the action when the slightest amount of pressure was applied to the bait plate. If this was not done then the amount of pressure required to release the mechanism was far more than a mouse's weight could exert.I see that other reviews are scathing about the efficacy of Nippers and other types of trap; well this is almost certainly due to a lack of understanding of how to best deploy them. First off, forget adding bait; it does not help and it just needs frequent changing as it becomes mouldy and unpleasant. And the adding of bait just makes setting the trap that much more fiddly. [The joke is, that research concludes that mice are not overly interested in cheese; this seems to be a myth propagated by Mr. Disney, and Looney Toons].So no bait.Next, consider Placement.Once you come to terms with the no-bait method, then the question should present itself; "Why would a Mouse seek out the trap if there is nothing luring it to it?" And in that question lays the answer to how you successfully trap mice and other rodents. Mice do not seek out traps, infact they always avoid newly placed or unfamiliar objects. Conventional, mouse traps such as Nippers, work when mice scurry over them. Electric traps work by mice running through them. So how do we get them to run over or through them?Mice are timid creatures and they navigate by habitual routes, pathways.Being timid, house mice prefer to keep in shadow, and in most chases are only active in low light conditions.They don't like sudden noises or movements.They gravitate to corners and room edges. It is usual for them to traverse a space by running along adjacent to the skirting boards. Check the skirtings and corners of the room for gaps, mice can easily pass threw a 12mm gap even when traveling at speed.Mice also like the protection of furniture fitted with low rise pads and no legs. This offers a perfect dark area for them to pass under unseen or a safe bolt hole when panicked.Lounge chairs and settees mostly have an open weave corse cloth underneath and this offers mice with the potential for safe nesting areas; they find a rip or chew a way through and in they go, nice and safe, warm and comfy in the padding.Also consider potential runs behind furniture, particularly where furniture is tight up against the wall, this presents mice with irresistible safe tunnels to scoot along.If you have sat quietly in a dimly lit room you may have seen your pesky mice. In such cases just sit quietly and watch where it goes, the route it takes, you may as well, because you are not going to catch it, so why move or make a sound, take the opportunity to gather intelligence. The other clue to where mice run and feed is mouse droppings.If you do disturb a mouse, take note as to which direction it bolts and if possible its point of exit from the room. Mice have highly preferred escape routes, knowing this helps with trap placement.Okay you have surveyed the room for gaps through which mice may choose to enter and exit, you have mapped the safe havens where disturbed mice may seek refuge [In 1976 one of my interlopers used to disappear behind an old fashioned valve radio standing on the floor. After several such vanishing acts, I took off the back of the radio and found him hiding inside!], and you have noted potentially attractive tunnel routes.This done take anything between four and twelve UNSET traps and place then in appropriate locations:Along the skirting board, place them running parallel to and within 6mm of the wall and alternate the direction the bait plate faces.For tunnels formed by furniture and wall, place them parallel to and within 6mm of the wall and 12mm away from the tunnel mouth. Only trap at one end of the tunnel; if you know which is which, choose the exit.For room corners with gaps place the trap within 12mm of the gap with the bait plate facing the gap.For passages made by furniture legs adjacent to the wall, place the trap [applies to Nipper style traps only] with the bait plate across the passage way.Traps by emergency exit points are most effect as fleeing mice have less time to be cautious.So all traps placed but NOT set. Now leave them alone, do not move or touch them for a week or longer. Mice will not go near them, they will entirely avoid them or go around them, Mice will not touch newly placed objects, they need to become used to them being there.After the waiting period, set all the traps, and make sure they are placed exactly where they have been for the previous week. Then wait.When you trap a mouse, and a Nipper will inevitably kill it, dispose of the corps, and them wash the trap in boiling water and salt. Do not use cleaning agents as these will leave a residual oder, avoid excessive handling as this will leave your oder; mice are suspicious of unfamiliar smells. Replace the trap at the place it was successful after first wiping the floor with a solution of salt water. This is important as other mice will avoid the scent of a dead mouse.Your rate of success will be dependant on the extent of the infestation, more mice, more frequent success.Traps that do not give results in more than 12 weeks may be considered for relocation to other sites.You will not save your mouse problem in less than six months, and if you are in terraced or tenement hosing you may never fully solve it, you can only minimise it. Thats why pest controllers remain employed. Don't be fooled, mouse activity will often appear to vanish in hot dry sunny weather as house mice will take to seeking food out of doors, wet weather and cold will drive them back inside.Store food in tightly sealed cupboards and high level cupboards, preferably in closed containers. wast bins should have close fitting lids. Food in unprotected plastic waste bags is like a 24 restaurant to mice. Even when hung up more than a foot from the floor, if they are wishing three inches of the wall the chances are mice will get in; I have watched mice climb textured wall surfaces and grained wood panels, to get to food.Clean up all food spillage at once. Mice live in the proximity of humans for two reasons, the prospect of food and warmth. Deny them food and they will move on [not necessarily the case in terraces and tenements, as your neighbours may not be as diligent as you].I have had lots of repeated successes using Nippers, patience and careful placement is key.NOTE: Little Nippers and similar designs are not suitable when there are free roaming pets and small children in the house.

Killed 2 on first night! Put 4 out in allotment sheds. 2 untouched. 2 kills. Arrived on time. and doing the job. What more could you ask for...

I've caught 9 mice with these over the last few months and each was a sudden death kill, which is what really matters. I use a small ball of cheese and really ram it home, so they can't do a snatch and run. They are fiddly to set, and catching your fingers can be nasty, so for the elderly I'd suggest a different set. But if you feel physically competent these do the job.

Ordered this after we heard a scratching in a loft. Good for the price I thought, and the picture on Amazon certainly makes them look a little more "professional". However, don't be fooled by this, you do not get these in fancy packaging as shown, you just get a plastic bag with no instructions, and the quality of the wood and print is pretty rough and varies greatly between them. Now, I don't want to get this out of perspective, it is a mouse trap designed for one thing (after which, I`m probably just going to chuck it anyway), so didn't want to pass judgement until I used it. I have added a photo of what I received.All in all, it is a standard mouse trap. A bit fiddly to set (mind your fingers!) but with a little peanut butter on and left it for a day it caught the mouse. Hopefully it was a quick ending.Unfortunately, one of the four traps received would not set, it would not hold the spring trap open, so that one is useless. Couldn't be bothered to return it for the price.So, -1 star for the incorrect imaging and general quality, and -1 star for the one trap that didn't work.

Die fallen sehen sehr interessant aus und scheinen äußerst sensibel zu reagieren... Heute werden sie gleich aufgestellt, ich bin guter Dinge :-)

Ottimo ..e per chi interessato utile, secondo me buono... che si puo dire di piu sul prodotto...per me utileSoddisfattissimo.