Replacement Flat Oven Ignitor Replaces: 5303935066, 814269, WB2X9998, WB13K21

I have a 48" Thor kitchen double oven and neither oven wanted to work one day. After researching I found if the ignitor doesn't pull enough amperage, the gas safety valve won't open. For my valve to work the ignitor needs to pull between 3.0-3.6 amps. Sure enough, the big oven ignitor only pulled about 3 amps at best. The little oven was about 3.1 amps and would work if I smacked the valve which shocked it open. I tried this replacement and it was a direct fit and pulled about 3.7 amps on initial startup and then calmed down to about 3.5 amps. It worked perfectly. I then ordered a second one to replace the other valve and this one pulled 3.8 amps then calmed down to 3.6 and the valve worked fine. Being the old ignitor had cilps on the ends, I cut those wires long and then twisted them to the new ignitor with the provided wire nuts. The old ignitor was a rounded twist type while this is a larger flat blade type. Makes no difference, all it has to do is get hot to ignite gas. Total install and testing time is less than an hour. Oh, and these we $20 but over $60 from the manufacture so even if they are short lives, they were 1/3 the cost.

It did the job. Make sure to check your model number.

My oven was intermittently not lighting despite the existing ignitor pulling rated current and glowing yellow to white hot. Replacing the ignitor fixed it.What I learned in the trouble shooting process is that even if an ignitor glows, it may not reliably ignite the gas. It appears as if ageing ignitors lose the ability to reliably ignite gas due to some sort of degradation of the hot surface finish.New ignitors sparkle a bit on the hot surface, indicating they have a textured crystalline finish that probably has microscopic hot pointy spots that increase surface area in contact with the gas to promote ignition reliability (speculation). Used and ageing ignitors show a clear wear pattern on the hottest portion where this sparkly finish turns dull and flat in appearance.I'll post pictures later so you can see the difference between a used and new ignitor.One other observation is that when the original ageing ignitor would intermittently fail to ignite the gas, the oven would continue to leave the gas solenoid valve open for multiple seconds in the presence of the hot ignitor, filling the oven with gas, and causing a noticeable smell of natural gas in my kitchen. Sure seems like this scenario is potentially hazardous.

Long story short.. I ordered another brand because it claimed to be OEM. I installed it and wound up trimming the insulated wire leads too short. So I ordered this one because it was cheapest and it was cheaper than buying bulk insulated wire and porcelain wire nuts. Ended up just installing this one and chucking the first one, the wire nuts fit better from this kit, as the other brand wire nuts were too large for the wire size.

Update: So nice I bought it twice! Have now used this same ignitor to replace the ignitor in my larger 36" oven. The mounting holes are off by 2mm or so, just enough that threads wouldn't catch and hold, so I had to use a file on the back hole. But wiring was a snap and it works flawlessly, if not faster than the OEM ignitor.Original review: Used this on the smaller oven for my 48" dual oven NXR range.install was a snap, and was in and out with oven and both old and new igniter tested in less than an hour.Part is as described, was packaged well with a thick foam insert to protect it. This came with ceramic wire nuts to make the splice into the factory wiring. Heats up almost immediately and seems to light much quicker than the OEM coil style igniter that was original from factory. Was a savings of close to eighty bucks over the OEM igniter from the original dealer. And 100% functionally the same. igniter profile was slightly different, and used solid heating element as opposed to the coil on my OEM igniter.The only reason I would give this 4 stars instead of 5 is that most, if not all range/ovens are using "sealed" blade style connections to patch in the igniter to the factory wiring. It would be nice to have a similar set of high temp blade connectors included instead of a wire nut. given the various sizes of wires used by different manufacturers, I understand why they dont, but it would sure be a nice touch even if it increased the cost slightly.

fixed my oven and still going strong